sblake01

Doesn't really help that much on a 280Z/ZX. They already have the air intake mounted in front of the radiator support. I have cold air intake on mine. It sounds better than the stock airbox but I'm not really convinced it noticeably improves the performance.

Er...check please!

Kurt, I didn't mean to put you on the offensive. It's just easier for me to offer suggestions when I know what's already been done. Changing other items seeming not related to the present problem, whatever it is, can sometimes have an effect. I'm glad to see that you solved the distributor/tach problem in the other thread. You'd been chasing that one for a long time. Cleaning up the old fuse box will surely help. That's exactly what I did with my Z and my 810 when I got them and it's been years since I've touched them. Not so much as a blown fuse in at least 4 years with the 810 and I can't recall blowing a fuse in the Z since I cleaned up it's fusebox.

Appears to be the same one that Rob posted.

A fuel pressure reading when it's running right and what happens to the fuel pressure when it starts to idle rough/die would give me a direction.

You're kind of jumping around from issue to issue since 2006 with the distributor/tach issue which, as far as I know, isn't solved yet, the seatbelt interlock, MSD ignition, E12-80 ignition, P90a head questions, etc. Now a fuse box change. It's really hard to offer any kind of assistance under those circumstances not knowing the status of each issue, solved or unsolved.

Could be many things. Had it been sitting undriven for a long period? Could be a fuel restriction caused by sediment in the gas tank, could be a bad temp. sensor, leaky injectors, bad fuel filter, it's really had to say without more information

The pic doesn't show.

Did it just suddenly start doing this? How long have you had the car?

The "BELT-ARRESTER-DIFFER", 55425-E4100/55425-N4300, that Rob alluded to in post #72 is NLA. I had contacted Russell at nissanparts.cc about a week ago and he said he's check on it and get back to me. According to him there's not one to be had anywhere in the US (the US Nissan dealers have no link to the other Nissan world market databases). That was the one and only item I changed when I bought my Z 12 years ago and it had the dreaded clunk. The clunk hasn't returned since I changed that part. There must be some manufacturer/distributor somewhere that deals in such parts that if the dimensions of the Nissan part were known could match it up with some existing alternative.

Either that or it comes from a wharehouse in somplace like Taiwan........

You've done or are considering doing a rear disc conversion?

That place seems to use generic pictures as their drums for a 77 Impala shows the same picture as their drums for a 240Z. There's no way of knowing if the drums they sell are aluminum. Unless you call them. At $47.20 a pair, that would be quite a deal but "Meets or Exceeds OE specifications, Guaranteed Fitment – no modification needed, Premium Quality Materials" doesn't indicate to me that they are aluminum. My guess would be that those are aftermarket cast iron drums which might be okay for doorstops or paperwieghts:). Black Dragon lists cast iron drums for $89.95 ea with no mention of aluminum and I would imagine MSA's at the same price are also cast iron.

Not sure if I would do that. Nissan must have had a reason for setting it up that way. The ignition modules are different for the 75-77 models vs. the 78 and the ballast resistor is between the coil and the module. I wouldn't take the chance of possibly damaging something by removing it.

Nissan went to EI 1974 with the 260Z. For whatever reason they kept the ballast resistor through the 77 models.

You might have to actually put the two databases on a CD and point the program to them rather than to files on your hard drive. I'm still not sold on Vista and won't change the XP Pro Corporate I use now except maybe when Windows Seven comes out.

I got you but I'm not sure DZR did.

It's either paint or a bad or at least wrong color plating job. Plus it's on things that I don't think would have originally had cad plating.

No problem. The mileage could be better however. Mine rarely drops out of the 20s and that's only when I drive it hard. Most of the time it's between 23-25.5 and as much as 27.5 on long trips.

The Honda blower upgrade will benefit the 240Z and the early 260Z. The late 260Z/280Z already have what I fell is an adequate blower. Do you have factory or aftermarket/dealer installed air? I find the dealer installed ARA/Sanden compressor based system to be quite adequate producing vent temps in the mid 20s before cycling.

You can if you have the crank turned .050 and don't mind using a brand I've never heard of.

That's not even true. There are several sites at a least one You Tube video that show Y44 engines in S30s in the US and other parts of the world.

Maybe we could arrange a group buy..........

The guys on HybridZ and JNC have already rosted this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1974-Datsun-260-ZX-Factory-V-8-Original-Rare-Motor_W0QQitemZ110356227284QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item110356227284&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I don't know what the Haynes manual says because I don't use it. The end of the check valve that you can pull vacuum through goes towards the engine, the end you can't pull vacuum through goes towards the Master Vac. If you can pull vacuum through both ends it needs to be replaced.