sblake01

Okay. Then I've got nothing. I could probably tell him what was wrong if it was EFI:)

All I can add to this is that when my OEM radiator finally died, I replaced it with another OEM style Modine radiator. I've driven my car in Southern California 100+ degree summers with no cooling problems and it's air conditioned. Weight savings? On a 280Z? I don't think I'd use that as a consideration but it's still your choice.

You know, that's kind of what I was thinking or at least something to do with the carbs. Old engine did it, new engine does it. Are they the same carbs, i.e, the ones from the old engine swapped to the new engine?

The thing is, my car doesn't spit and snarl when you let off the gas, isn't 'lopey', and is prety close to the performance numbers you mention, although I don't really buy the 136 mph thing, I guess it could happen but I don't drive my car that fast on the street but it will hit 90 in third and does it on 87 octane. Stage two cams are a bit much for a stock EFI L6 engine, like I said earlier. They are vacuum sensitive (hence the 'spitting and snarling') and more cam = less manifold vacuum.

Oh yeah, sick as I am, having owned as many as 6 Datsun at one time in the past, and now three, I know that there are many others that have it much worse! I won't say much about the computers, musical instruments, die cast cars, tools,...................

Does that description of the cam come from Al's ad? If that's the case, like they say, 'tain't necessarily so'.

On my 78 280Z and on my 79 810, I have single electric fans mounted on the front of the air conditioning condenser that come on when the compressor is on but I still retain the stock belt driven clutch fan. With that setup, my temp gauge never goes higher than just below the center even on 100+degree SoCal summer days.

You can bump the compression up somewhat, within reason as you'd want to be able to drive it without need for fuel additives or special fuels but you can't go too crazy with cams on the stock EFI. Vacuum is very important to this system and changes in lift and duration to have an effect on vacuum.

I'm sure that since it's computer based you can correct flaws in the original. Let's say the original is broken, like in the case of Jay Leno's part, I'm sure the machine scans it and compiles the info, breaks, flaws and all. Those can be corrected by the software before the model is produced. And then you wouldn't be making a cast from a flawed part.

I was just being obtuse....

in? (Sorry, that's what came to mind when she said that. I'll go away now..)

That part may be true although she didn't say where 'there' was.

You guys have 76s. The 75-76 bumper rubber is virtually impossible to find. The 77-78 bumper is getting scarcer but not quite as bad.

I do donate from time to time to this and five other sites.

Yeah, they've got neoprene seals and stainless contacts. And whatever material they are made from doesn't become brittle over time. The ones that come off the old Volvos and BMWs in the junkyard are actually better than the brand new OEM Nissan type.

Keep an eye on those new plugs. If they foul again in a short period of time you might have some sort of fuel richness or weak spark issue.

A few years back I almost put a RWD SR20DE in my little 320 pickup. That would have make it into more of a death trap than it already is!

We've done threads on converting those to the BMW/Volvo type quick release connectors. You just press the clip down and pull off the connector. Something to consider if you should break one while removing it.

I like 280Z bumpers on 280Zs, 240Z bumpers on 240Zs, 260Z bumpers.......well, you get the picture. If I wanted a 240Z I'd get a 240Z rather than trying to make a 280Z look like a 240Z. What's the point. Like they say, 'it is what it is'. But, there are many who would disagree with me on that.

Cool! That's one I don't have. Thanks. I'll convert that one to DVD.

No, it's on the front of the water outlet below where the radiator hose connects to the engine. It's the smaller of the two sensors, the larger one being the thermotime switch. Clean both connectors and be careful not to mix them up when you re attach them. It's a good idea to clean all of the EFI connectors as that's often the cause of problems. Careful with then because they're old and brittle. They can easily be replaced if necessary. EDIT: Tim beat me to it hence the redundant answer. That looks like my scan from another post. You may or may not have the water temp switch (on the side)

Sound like you guys are going back and forth as to which wheels he wants caps for. My take is that he's looking for caps for the slots and not the wires.

Depending on how the previous owner set it up, it would either prime the fuel system when you turn the key to the on position or when you begin to crank it. Those were the only two ways Nissan actuated the fuel pump during the 10 years they used that system. One or the other would show fuel pressure if everything else was right. I'm referring to the stock EFI system which may or may not apply to yours since it's a conversion.

Yep, SR20DE.

Ah, one of Nissan's 'pocket rockets'. We briefly had a 92 Sentra SE-R. Fun car but I've never been a real fan of FWD cars.