Matthew Abate
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Everything posted by Matthew Abate
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False alarm! I was able to find and download the FSM for the car this diff came from (2014 Subaru WRX STi). Here's the answer in case you were wondering… Apply liquid gasket to the bolts indicated by arrows, and tighten the side retainer bolt. Liquid gasket: THREE BOND 1110F (Part No. K0879Y0021), THREE BOND 1110B or equivalent Tightening torque: 10.5 N·m (1.1 kgf-m, 7.7 ft-lb) -
I could use advice: The Subaru r180 diff I am cleaning up seams to have something like plumbers putty on the bolts that hold the side covers on where the axles enter the case. I’ve never seen this before. Is this to keep oil from leaking out from around those bolts? Does anyone know what this stuff is and if I can get it at an auto parts store? I’d like to do this as correctly as I can. Thanks.
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Bump Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Thanks. Now I need someone who needs one to see this.
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I’m good there. If anything I’d like them to be a few millimeter longer, but it’s fine. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Yes, and it ended up only being seven of them that really needed it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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My Z should be coming home in February from the painter so I’ll have a rotisserie for sale. $750 DM me if interested. Local pickup in NJ (07040) It’s a light duty rotisserie but it worked great for my Z. The jacks are in fantastic shape and the hardware is as well. Comes with the brackets you need to hang a Z, as well as some door bars I never used and extra brackets for other cars.
Oh trust me, I'll be taking off the minimum. I will be surprised if it's more than just the very top of the hole since the backs of the wheels were all fine.
Yep, Bruce nailed it. The .68” mag lugs I bought slip in perfectly from the other side, so it looks like a mix of compressed material in the front and poor measuring on my part. Most of them have zero resistance at all, so I’ll just file around the edges until it’s uniform. These are the lug nuts I got (washer not shown):
When digging through my garage for things to use as a sanding block on these wheels I found a pry bar that almost fits into the wheel hole and measures 17.42mm diameter. I measured the holes again on two wheels and got a range from 16.2 to 17.23, so I bought some domed mag nuts that have a .68” shank, which is 17.272mm, and I’ll open up the holes with a round file and cylinder hone bit until they fit. I’m just concerned about throwing of the PCD or otherwise compromising the geometry of the holes.. —- Now I just have to figure out how to turn the angled valve stem Costco installed sideways without taking it back, breaking it, etc. It never ends. —- Incidentally, I went with Michelin Defender T+H - 195/70R14 91H tires. Costco had them for $85 each after the promotion they’re running.
Yeah, I think I’m going to have to open up the lug holes on the wheels somehow. This is the closest thing. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Double post app glitch.
I can’t use the tapered lug nuts unless I machine my wheels. Stuck with mag lug nuts otherwise. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Thanks! Edit: I went through them and didn’t see anything with a narrow enough shank, but it’s totally possible that I miss-measured the hole diameter. The wheels are higher up in this thread. Shelby Cal 500s, 14x6.
So I have a conundrum. I’m not sure which lug nuts to get. These wheels have a hole diameter of about 16mm and the depth is about 22mm. I think I read that the lug bolts are 50mm long, but I’ve already dropped my suspension off at the painter and forgot to measure how much thread length I have before the nut bottoms out. Does anyone have a recommendation? I’ve been looking at these but I’m worried they aren’t deep or narrow enough: https://www.lugnutguys.com/product/factory-mag-chrome-cwa-5005t-16 The lack of 12x1.25 mag lug selection is a bummer.
Thanks for the encouragement guys! So status report: They forgot to weld up the holes the previous owner put in the doors for those crappy plastic mirrors that were in it when I got it. That’s going to set things back a minute. Otherwise, I need to get tires on those rims and get the suspension out there so they can fit the doors correctly. They are suspicious that the gaps will be different if they do that work on the rotisserie. My dad has also made progress on the head after having it at the welder. Looks like we’re taking off another 0.002. :/ —- Open questions: Do I want blacked out or body color wheel wells? Do I want rubberized undercoat or just leave it at the lizard skin and paint? Do I want lizard skin on the inside of the roof? I think it might screw with adhering the “headliner.” Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Tonight I’ll clean them. Tomorrow I’ll spray them with clear. After they cure I’ll get tires, a few other random steps, and then everything goes to the shop to get the car off the rotisserie.
In other news... Inspiration: Progress: Finished: Now I need to refinish my center caps.
Hah! Well, there’s an Austin Healy in the family, but it think it’s unlikely that I’ll do a frame up restoration on it. I’ll just sell the rotisserie.
Oh, by the way. I’m going to have a rotisserie to sell pretty soon. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
I don’t have a reference panel so we are going to do our best based on the code info and this image I found on this site but can’t find now: I very much like the spicy habanero pepper vibe this gives off.
918 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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