Murph

Well.....I've just made a new slightly longer locking rod for my drivers door as the lock wasn't locking, only unlocking. As long as the lever arm is of the correct length it should be ok. By the looks those solex locks come with a whole bunch of them of different lengths. So with a bit of mucking around it should be possible.

Would there be any problem fitting them to the zed doors?

Hmm....doesn't look like much difference in the photos does it? It certainly made quite a big difference in person. Before it had somewhat of a 4WD look to it because of the ride height and big tires. Looks a lot better now.

After

Before

...and how you drive it.

Zvoiture: Go for it.....or has it already been covered in some old threads?

No no no! You've got it all wrong. Hook into the corner harder, then apply LOTS of oppy lock.

Hehe....thanks beandip. It's somewhat luck of the draw with our digi cam, but for once it actually focused on what I wanted it to. I think there has been some confussion within this discussion as to which of the plastic connectors each person is referring to. In the picture, the one to the right, which has a rod with a 90° bend in it, that's the one I think you are referring to. It's been a while, but you can do the screwdriver pry method mentioned above, or if I recall correctly, you can turn the rod 90° in the opposite direction of which it actuates and slip the "ears" of the rod end through the plastic retainer. The one that everyone is referring to as being threaded is the one in the "middle" of your picture. You'll note that it has a Hex Head and a smooth shaft. That's the one that is used to adjust the amount of travel that the outside door handle has before it opens the door latch mechanism. The last one, which no one has mentioned, is the one to the far left, which is the one attached to the door lock mechanism. You've already removed that one, so you know how, but for the sake of this post, you rotate the rod body clip to the side so that you can pull the bent rod end from the hole in the lock swing arm. If you'll recall that one also had to be aligned a special way before the rod end would escape. Enrique: Yeps...that's the one I meant. I've tried rotating it, but still it wont budge. That's quite possible because it's sort of mutilated now after all my attempts. Anyhow, finally yesterday evening I completely sorted my door/lock problems. There were a few problems, firstly the striker was way out of alignment. Now my door closes easily. Also it seem whether the locking mechanism wants to move freely or not is a fuction of the position of the door handle adjusting nut (middle of my pic). Lastly, that was all working, but I couldn't lock the door with the key, only unlock it. I ended up fabricating a slightly longer rod that goes between the key barrel and the locking mechanism. Now it just locks and unlocks. The notch in the tab/arm on the end of the key barrel is pretty worn, so it allows a lot of slop in either direction before actually moving the rod. Mind you I made about 5 of these bloody rods before I got just the right length. Thanks for all the help everyone. Muchly appreciated.

I don't know anymore details, but I'm deffinantly interested. I've finally got my drivers door/door lock working well today after weeks of playing around with it. The lock cylinder is pretty bloody worn though.

Is that sarcasm, or are you serious?

Ahh...threaded eh... that should help. IT's all back together atm....just I'll give that a whirl next time I have it appart. Thanks for all the advice guys.

Pry the clip at the same time as the rod?

Currently trying to remove the lock mechanism from my drivers door. My shop manual says I need to remove the remote control rod from the main locking mechanism. However there is this little plastic clip/retainer thing that fits over the end of the rod and inside the "tab" of the locking mechanism. How do you take the rod out? I've tried squeezing this thing, I've tried just using force and it wont come out! Any ideas? Btw....I really don't want to break it.

Yeah your right. It'd be steering feedback, not bump steer. It's not really that bad that it's a problem, just means you have to have a firm grip on the wheel. I'm just wondering if this is normal on zeds or not?

New shocks and springs all round. Mustache bar bushes have been replaced, but none of the other major ones in the rear end. A few in the front end have been done. Another question: I get a fair bit of bump steer in my zed.....eg I'll be coming around a corner and I hit some bumps in the road, and they will turn the steering wheel. Again, sometimes not the most confidence inspiring feeling. Anyone else get this? Is it normal for a zed?

Hmm....mine also feels a bit loose and a little fidgety at speed. Just made up a dodgy camber measuring device yesterday, rear right -2.5deg, rear left -4.5deg! Toe looks fairly off too. Gonna have to do something about that....not sure what yet.

I'm curious as to what the handling tendencies of other peoples zeds are (also what a stock zed should be like?)? In my zed, if you push it through a corner, either off the power or only lightly on the power it will understeer. On the otherhand, if you give it a goo boot full she'll over steer. Mind you I haven't had the chance to try it at any real speed yet.

260Zed: I have my zed insured with Shannons. Full comp with an agreed value of $4900 (what I paid for it) for $350PA. The excess is $450 provided you have an approved imobiliser. Oh and I'm 21, rating 2 I think. I'm pretty sure you must be at least 20 and have a close to spotless driving history. Pretty damn happy with them so far. Edit: And you can mod your car to your hearts content, provided it's legal and you tell them what you've done.

I learnt a few lessons last night... 1. Really sideways zed with an open diff=unpredictable. 3. Sitting on top of the rear axle throws you around a bit when it does hook up. 2. Zed with $^!# tires = like ice skating, in the wet. I'm also finding that even with these shitty tires I'm getting a decent amount of body roll in the corners. Around 90 deg bends it'll unweight the inside rear and spin it up......well either that or go sideways. I haven't played with tire pressures yet. I'll have to check them next time I take it out.

How wide a rim are you running the 235's on? That's pretty fat! Atm, I'm thinking for the next set of tires I'll go the Yokohama A509's in a 225/60-14. About $150 each. Mind you....I am enjoying having the shitty rubber on it atm.

I wouldn't mind seeing this if your willing to post it. As for me, back when I was a kid we pulled up at the lights next to one and I remember looking over at this thing thinking what the hell is that! Looks awesome! Did some research and found out what it was....sounded good.... Bout a year later I saw one give it a good hit up the road....music to my ears! I think I've been addicted every since. Hmm...I should be studying for exams atm...But I'm itching to take my zed for a drive just for the hell of it.

Same problem on my '74...

Whoops....my mistake!

Yep that's the measurement. Non-trapping as in, when your suspension is fully extended, the spring is shorter than the distance between the plates that it sits between and can fall off onto the shoulder of the plate. *Used the word plate cos I have no idea what the correct term is.