wheee!
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Everything posted by wheee!
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That makes sense now!
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What are the optional mount points for under the pan?
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Yup. You need a resonator in there or it will be unbearable.
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After contemplating the various options for replacement engines, I decided very early on I wanted to maintain the "look" of the stock engine and mod it in ways to get a little better performance and sound. In the end, I found a used stroker motor for the car that saved me thousands in a build, along with giving me the look I was seeking in the engine bay. RB's are great to drive and they have a big "wow" factor too. But they are also a lot more work to install, support, upgrade... and engine management becomes an issue as well. $$$$$ Swapping in a V8 gives you awesome torque and straightline performance, but steals the spirit of the car... and $$$$ again, mostly for the supporting mods. If a stroker is not available for a decent price, the next best thing is a clean L28 with your choice of FI or carbs. Lots of fun, great to look at and smiles for miles!
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True. CO is the man! Rebuilding is very straightforward if you have a good bushing. If you need to replace the bushing, you have to do a little extra work. It can be done!
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Great info! The gas cap is locked onto the car ATM. I am having the car hauled over to another secure location soon. The current location is streetside... not making me feel all warm and tingley. I will retrieve the car in the end of March. I am going to have to find the proper “d” horn button and I will also need a gas tank as this one was shipped off for refurb and long since forgotten. In the end I want this to be a nice driver in original form. The pushrod R16 engine was not a powerhouse and I will keep this one as close to factory spec as possible. It is surprisingly rust free. As far as Datsun’s go...and no major accidents by my first inspections.
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Yup. I’m not sure about the brake master and the door pulls are from Home Hardware for sure! I have a lot to learn about these cars before I start the restoration.
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Well, it will be sitting in hibernation for a while. I need to finish the Z before I start this!
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I believe it is an all original 4 speed.
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Well, even though my 280Z is still in restoration mode, I went and bought a little red beauty to add to the stable!
It didn’t taste like lead...
Over time the half shafts can seem to have less range of motion due to the packing of the grease in the shafts. I documented the disassembly and the myth busting of various sized half shafts. They are all the same. Take them apart, clean them and reassemble. Very straightforward.
Pretty sure he meant the half shafts.
The half shafts are identical. No size or length difference in any model S30
Nice. They don’t list these on their site... cost?
So, on to the centre vent stack. I picked up some supplies. A section of eaves trough foam, some acrylic plastic sheet, a plumbing pipe reducer and one foam gasket. First thing was to remove the transfer section in the dash. Then I cut out the side diffuser panels and trimmed off the side vent outlet tubes. The foam eaves trough material was the perfect shape to fill the void and great non-turbulent air flow. Then I trimmed the acrylic sheet to fit and opened a hole for the plumbing adapter to connect to the 2” vent hose. I then trimmed front and back with foam gasket and then bolted the acrylic sheet onto the transfer panel. Looks pretty good!
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