wheee!

I scraped with a small flat scraper as best I could, then pushed a piece of sandpaper around with my finger. Not perfect but okay. I will try and sand the primer a bit too to make it look nicer. Best you can do really.

A little more hood work... And doors!

True but I think I can get about 3 meters of the good stuff for about $30.

That looks like exactly what I should use. The stock system really is quite inefficient and clumsy....

Ok time to ask the experts... Does anyone have a good picture of the rubber seals under the fenders and how the fit, mount etc? Mine are destroyed and I need to reproduce them. The ones that go on the fender ridge. And does anyone have an alternate source for these inner fender seals?

Half of two doors now... had to do a little more spraying while I was in the mood. Still some repair work with fibreglass filler needed on these doors but nothing outrageous. Mostly pinholes on the bottom trailing edges.

A little 2K epoxy work tonight. This is a good start! One full mix did a front fender, cowl and centre valance under the rad. Hood, hatch, fender, two doors to go!

Very nice work!

....pour beer on the fire?....

We’ve had snow and below freezing temps for a week. [emoji3063]

Strangely enough the filter off of my old Lincoln MKX is the same size thread and o ring but significantly smaller. I put it on the engine for the “break-in” oil that Is just sitting in there till I get the engine tuned. PH3600 (yes cheap Fram filter) I have a Napa Gold to go on the finished engine.

Good catch! I was distracted by the green .....

Even with a google search, the article is hidden behind paywalls in most cases.... A link to the article in its entirety that is freely view-able would be more complete of a suggestion ?

Maybe a link would help?

Looks clean. Nice.

Such a pretty green car...

Well now that temperatures are below freezing, I have got the furnace tuned up and the shop ready for some paint work. I will use the small paint booth I set up here to prime and prep all the panels. I may end up doing the finish paint on the interior sides of the panels so they can stay mounted for finish body work and final paint. I lose sleep over this sequence. My gut tells me that having the panels painted and mounted for final body work is the safest bet. No more welding and dollying etc. Just final finish smoothing and filling. Then I can paint the whole car assembled and blend the paint seams where it meets finished paint on edges etc.

I have serious floor pan envy... the 280Z with the catalytic converter hump makes floor replacements a nightmare....

I thought it was written M il F....

I agree. You should end up around $20,000 for that car if it is low mileage, good condition.

The dash and console should have been tip offs too...

Also make sure your probes aren't plugged into the current (amps) reading ports on the meter. Should be Ohms/volts and ground

Well I don't think a Twiggy would help....

You found the Money Pit!

Last day of summer! Had to get the Z out...!