dutchzcarguy

Sleepy head was the problem i think.. btw i have now sinds 2007 a Original Dutch 240z differential and 5 speed gearbox in my 240z.. and i believe i used the same diff mount then.. not sure.. (5 speed gearbox: FS5C71B and uses a 1:3,9 gear diff.)

Is it me? What is a lift gate? You mean a rear hatch? or ?? huh?? ? rear door?

I had a laugh.. About 10 years ago it made some noise and i welded a U-type/piece of steel with some rubber IN it around the old diff mount just to get it ready for APK (this is the dutch MOT). Bought also then a new diff mount.. and guess what… it is still laying around in my garage! The repair i did still functioning and the last 10 years no problem for the APK! ? (I'm to busy with my other cars i guess….) Don't know if i have the newer part or the older correct ( for my car 2-72) part.. EDIT: this should be "my 2-'71 car!!! sorry!

For the 280zx drivers.. i had a 280zx 2+2 and they break a lot of windscreens.. due to flex.. (especially the T-bar chassis ones) and i made a triangular one in the front that also meets the firewall (near the lock) and it helps a lot!

Finally some progress.. at last.. As there are few cars on the road there are few collisions.. so the paintshop did the Primer! Incl: a guidecoat so the Datsun looks very cloudy now, no.. no pic's yet.. I will make some next week because i'm allowed to work in my own corner of the shop. Going to seal some joints on the car and in edges of the doors etc.etc. Feel a bit sad that i could not do the paintjob myself but in these times (of corona) it's a small sacrifice.. Now the panels are painted in primer they look unbelievable FLAT! Do we need the guidecoat after the many hours of flattening those Surfaces? The answer… yep! because after good comes better… ( Yeah yeah we don't need Best!) hihi.... streber... ?

Funny girls!! in english with spanish (?) undertitle..

Yeah, about keys… i owned a '72 240z and now i own a 240z from feb'71 and owned a few 280zx but they all had a set of keys! One double bearded for the doors and a single bearded key for the ignition. Tell me (someone) … what's Original.. a one or a 2 sides (bearded) key for the ignitionlock? Keys, from a spare set. left 1 beard key for ign. and right a 2 bearded key for doors and hatch. (only the right one is an Original)

It's like the (english) imperial gallon (4,546 Liter.) and the (american) US Gallon ( about 3,785 liter.) all over!! 1 Imperial gallon = 1.20095042 US gallon = 4.54609188 Liters And when someone starts talking about Pints, ? i always have to laugh about it, yeah do me a Pint..

For how to make your own metal part go to: Resources/knowledgebase/exterior.

And use a piece of metal shaped like a (side) banana peel.. sort of.. why? The upper piece will bend as you hit it with a big hammer. And make it square after you made the big dent.. think about it, you'll get the picture. (make the edges with a chisel (for steel obviously… my translator could give no good word for it but i mean the chisel that you use for breaking stone walls and can be used to make a nice edge in sheet metal.) Also use some clamps and then make the bend.. or whatever you need to do. Btw, i think it's a good idea to make a special topic on these things, or make a list with where one can find certain "make it yourself" substitute parts.. Back to GAUGE's and inches and millimeters!! ?

first cut of the "floor"part, you have to weld that one or a new flat piece onto it later. As the piece of steel is only 2 mm you could easely make one on a piece of oak wood. Make a piece were the old piece fits in exactly. a bit of woodworking and some hammerin. like this for example.. (This is a piece for a 280zx frontfender, made out of 1mm steel, some welding needed on the edge low right and a longer weld in the left lower layd part.)

always handy to have a rust hole to measure through.. ? well done!

Yeah yeah i know... "Gauge" Some mysterious number that when it gets bigger it means some diameter is getting smaller?? HUH??? Could we, as Datsuns are METRIC! use also millimeters? (I'm fine with a bit of use of feet, inches and fahrenheit ?… but gauge… i feel Always a bit sick haha ? ) Cables and sheet metal are in Gauge.. i'm not familiar with it and don't want to .. haha Cables over here (europe) are in mm2 the higher the number the thicker it gets!! (What i call logic?)

Yes, those 3 probably need to be renewed. (at the bottom of pic1 are 2 caps.. one on a third of the width of the board (light shines on it (C2), a bigger one!) and on 2/3 of the width is a smaller one.. (C1) the one right from the taped whires is probably C3, these 3 caps are electrolytic capacitors and (in this case) not likely to have leaked out of the aluminium can (I prefer aluminium to aluminum as it is the same in Dutch!!) . You can get these in a electronics store or order them.. just look for the capacity thats written on them ( in micro farads.. uF). When you take the circuitboard out, you have to watch the plus and minus of the caps. There are some BIG "minus" stripes on... yep.. the minus side of the connectors.. Getting to the box in your dash is not a big problem, just take of the cover on the right bottom and take out the glovebox.. you've done that before.. (watch out for the top of the box and take out the lightfilament..) Keep us posted! ? Restoring a 240z was expensive, even 20 years ago for me.. but a 280zx, which is a much more complicated car can be even more costly.. I'm restoring my 3rd car now and this last one i keep all the bills in a file folder and it does not close very well now i'm at the end of the resto.. if you know what i mean.. ? If i had to guess, i would say my restoration costs over 20000 euro's and not counting the over 1000 hours of prof. labour.. (as i'm disabled due to a accident at work in 1999.. (and privatly i tried to run down a big oak tree in 2006, with my fireblade..) i count every 2-3 hours as 1 hour of work.. depending also on how i feel that day etc.. So if you had to pay someone it could get roughly to 70000 euro's... A labour of love.. it has to be.. otherwise it's a moneypit.

The problem is those replacements are also 40 years old and have or get the same problems.. no, for me i would restore the unit i've got already.. and let me ad, i've got the feeling, Ebay isn't anymore what is was.. lots of cheap junk for to high prices, and stuf that looks nice but is in fact almost junk.. as a friend aways says, "They (the buyers) all are like crows, if it shines they like it" !!

One is aside the other on top of the cube. To Rich, Your welcome. i want to say, get yourself (if you don't already have one) the Original service manual, it's the best guide to solve problems. But.. Parts like the Warning Module, are in a block diagram, parts inside are not specified.. I remember that i made some pic's of the inside… of that amplifier.. or as they call it on the unit: warning module!! Lot's of... eh.... Cmos 4000 series? real late '70 electronics !!!! Look at it! You can't believe this electronic unit is almost 40 years old!!! todays electronics are hopeless when you look at/compare to this gem. Every part can easely be replaced.. try that with modern electronics.. pfoei! For as far i can see you only need to replace 3 capacitors on the circuitboard.. (In pic 1) on the right one cap (C3??) just right from the black tape round the 3 wires. and 2 caps in the bottom of the pic each on 1/3 of the board..(marked C1 and C2!) Maybe also the tantalum caps..(The blue droplets like parts) @Captain Obvious I don't know really but i think they are as strong as the rest of the part on the board? In the '70-80-90 when i repaired electronics you had lots of books, today with the internet.. you just type the number which is on the Integrated circuit (ic) and you get all the info on it you'll ever need !!! for example a 4011.. https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/63585/HITACHI/HD14011B.html

On page BE64 of the Original october 1978 servicemanual i see (bottom of the page) there are 8 lightbulbs inside the display! So they will have a thin film over them in a certain color.. As i'm sitting here doing absolutly NOTHING! ….. i can make you a few pics… yes... ? Hope i don't clog up the site... hahaha… are these enough? ? Took some of the … as they call it in the serv.man. (Huh??) amplifier.. the "warning module" .. as well. (forgot to make a pic of the wiring diagram in the serv.man. But that is only a schematic with 8 bulbs and a switch.) see the servicemanual, a few pages are dedicated to the warning system! What i would like to see are a few pics of all those sensors in the car, especially the battery sensor.. but i think those are gone.. (sensing the acid in the battery is a violent environment.)

It looks like there are some lights in the top and right side of the unit, but i'm not opening this unit as it is in great condition. Since the unit has about 9 different wires, each display is simply activated by the ancillary sensor. If i had these sensors i could make a complete system for my own 280zx! The warning module is already in my possession

Hahahaha… yeah… one? it has got 3 of those! The switch has one, the print on the upper and on the right have both one.. haha but on the other end there is a 10 pole connector.. with only one black.. (yeah somewhere in the yellow sleeve is a 3 into one black..) Furthermore, i think i have seen such a display work long time ago and the STOP in this display is red.. (OK is green) and the rest is lit a sort of orange.. No... even more colors! Now i know where i saw one.. in a brochure! Learn a little dutch on the side CO! Hihihi… i think the display "car54280zx" (Don't know his first name.) see's is the last one.. haha "defect" signaal (signal) ! As you see there are 4-5 different colors in the display.. I got this pic out of a may 1st 1979 folder. btw.. the battery level.. going to be a little bit difficult with todays battery's ?

I think a shutter would be to complicated.. maybe just a small bulb or LED per layer? It has a 10 wire connector with 8 wires, 2 of them for the on-switch (they go separate to the connector) so there could be 5 signs to be lit.. There can be lights build in on top and from the right.. ( as you can see in pic 1of4) And… NO, i'm not going to open this unit! hahaha.. Maybe one day i need it for my own first edition slick roof 280zx..

Now i wanted to find out what it is.. i looked if i got such a thing in my warehouse.. AND... YEP! got one! It say's: STANLEY on the back.. It looks like there is a little lightbulb in the right side of the display.. and the display is build out of layers of glass of some sort.. with small dots of glass on them.. Just by shining some light on the specific plate the sign gets visable.. What a cool technology! There are .. i took a good look in there .. around 20 plates of glass or ( i suspect) plexiglass in there, some have the pixels others are just dividers.. STOP is in front, then the headlight sign and OK comes next.. for as far i can see, behind those is the rest of the signs. By using a (colored) filter inbetween the lightbulb and the sign, these can light up in different colors!

In europe those parts would bring a lot of money..?

Yes CO, those are the right colors.. greenish for the OK and orange for the warnings, all of them.. so only the OK sign is green.. the trouble could be in the box with partnr: 25065 P7100 named : warning module..

So damn funny.. the swedish chef!

In 2001-2002.. something simular was a design for the, then new 350z...