dutchzcarguy

btw, you know there is a hide button? (under the tripple points in the right. only by your own message that is..) It happens when you doubbleclick i think? never did that.. 😐

That BLOWS... 😂

wow.. 🙈

There are many LS swaps in your country, You did'nt give a lot of info on your car but i asume you have a 280z or zx, as they get more expensive it's better to keep it stock. I think a lot of those people who have done the V8 swap are more and more regretting they have done that and did'nt keep the L-series engine. So.. restore the engine yourself for a few hundred dollars! You learn alot and if you don't know what to do or how, we can help you do it the right way, just ask.. remember, there are no stupid questions there are only stupid "students" that don't ask!

Most carpeople don't do that they always refer to left and right seen from the drivers seat.. You could say: seen on the left IN this picture.. otherwise it's confusing. Hihi, i'm glad an english man does also not know a word for those "thingies" 🤣

Hihi... take your time, these parts are in stock for over 30 years hahaha.. a few days more can't hurt. @Zup Hi Jim! Your next on the list 😉 Question, These fillers are used only on 240z? or also on 260z? As you might expect.. these are rare pieces (very long in stock) and have theire price.

So those are the filler pieces i got.. Nice, Thanks! If @Dadsun don't want them for the right price (PM me.) these NOS parts are for sale.

Maybe a "specialist" on USA type 240z's can chip in, could it be that you are missing these? (The Euro version don't have these..) (I got a set of these, they came from a garage here in the Netherlands and are about 35 years old but new old stock. A technician ordered the wrong part...it happens!) I've seen these go for 200 dollar a piece! and were in worse state.. If this is what you need you can make me a offer, but remember the shippingcosts are also high, if interested i could get you a estimate on shipping costs.

You need some rubber round thingy's to close those 2 holes in the front, orig. euro cars have them. these are about 3mm bigger then the hole is and stick out about 2,5 mm. And are a bit conical.. Here on the rear bumper to see, they are the same.

You fixed it! It looks very good now!! Btw.. your left and right was wrong.. your bumper was offset to the left not the right.. when you look to the front of a car.. on the left there is the right side and on the right there is the left... confusing hey? ( Always look at it if your in the car sitting behind the wheel.)

When i look at picture 58.. i see a car with a very bad floor.. and then pay so much money for that ?? Where is it gonna end.. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-154/

WHAT?? is he saying on 0:12- 0:13 sec..?? it changed the what?? the wohww? the wuwww..??? HUH ??? i can't understand 😉 Put 0:12 - 0:13 on replay it's funny! BTW... how he puts a 240z on a 2 post lift.... if it was my car.. i would have kicked the guys ar** really REALLY HARD! (This car must have new (stronger) floors otherwise you would destroy the car, orig. floors could not hold the car that way that well!)

I would go back to metal forsure! My painter (pro) advised to go to metal because you would be working on a very old surface and you don't know what it's going to do with the new paint chemicaly.. I would not gamble! take it off! Use a 60 sandpaper on a rotary it go's fast. other painters say do not use chemical stuff to get it of because you have to clean it very well and then still you find it back in the new paint.. they say.. 🙄

You use a FET? I would go for a thyristor.. And a fat heatsink.. 👍

In the first post you talk about a mechanical fan. I'd stick to that it's simple and reliable.. You could like i did open up the old clutch mechanism. These old clutches dry up and need just a little bit fluid to work again.. i personally opened a 280zx fanclutch (Clean it thoroughly first.) and used a bit of wd40 to get the mechanism working and closed it up.. you don't need a lot of fluid.. (Nice to see how the fluid locks the mechanism as it gets hot.) When installed it should go no further then 1/2 or 3/4 round when you give it a good try to make it go round. The clutch engages more and more as temperatures rise .. normally on room temperature the clutch is disengaged but it still brakes a lot.. When hot you could stop it but you'll need a piece of wood and you might brake the fan blades that tough it will get. (So test it when off and hot it will turn very difficult.) When your gauge stays under 3/4 hot then thats oké... i think..? At normal driving the meter should be half way though..

Example of a top bearing that's on top of the strut (lower and top half can turn independently. This is the other side..

If these are the fronts.. why is there not a bearing in the top that can let the top rotate? (these bearings are bearings that are not like the wheelbearings but rotate top and lower part .. (i don't know how to say this on an other way..) Nice picture drawn but the topbearing shoud be drawn in an other way.. there should be a top and lower half with ballbearings in between. Again, nice drawn.. you'll figure it out i'm sure! 😉

So... just tripple it? Yeah.. Restaurations take a lot of time, always longer than you thought it would.. some take forever..😵

Thanks for your work! Nice pic's! So no details on the rear lights.. I always found it strange that all japanese and euro cars had the 3 colors and France was, as far i know, the only country with red and orange/amber rear lights.. ( I stil got a set of those somewhere in stock..hihi..)

7 pic's on ebay.. none of the rear lights.. does not matter not going to buy more cars.. or recreation-containers (caravans) 😉

Thats a euro (!) 260z 2+2 ... (280z was never a euro version made of.) I'm curious.. does it have the french taillights ( as majorette is a french brand) So it should have red and orange taillights not the white reverse lights besides the orange blinkerlights? Top half is red, lower half is orange.

Try.. "we say overhere" ... is what the doggies do..!! 😉 You just repair that! Not trying.. just be confident and DO IT! You'll get there! We all know it's a lot of work but in the end you get it done.

Hi Scott welcome here.. I sure hope you used some resistors with that test otherwise you will blow those injectors strait to heaven! A direct 12v from the battery is most times fatal.. a good way to test can be a 9v battery pack the very small ones you find in a remote or so.. these can deliver enough energy to test the injector, but not enough to burn them.. I advice you to FIRST read a service manual of the s130, you can find these on this site.. Then.. why should your exhaust manifold be defective.. first take it of and check for deformation with a strait edge.. there are ways to make it strait again.. good luck.

That was a much better looking car then this ugly silvia! My first car was a datsun (sunny) 140Y coupe.. looks alot like your B210 coupe! 😉 That silvia.. what a design... i find it ugly .. seen from any angle..

Real Chrome stays shiny, where ss has to be polished more often to get it shiny.. So.. they chromed stainless steel ?? are you sure that it's chromed stainless? Not just stainless with a high percentage of chrome IN it? Do they use copper first and nickel? otherwise the chrome is not gona stick very well.. On the original steel bumpers there should go copper first then nickel and at the end chrome.. THEN you have a proper chromed part that will last a very long time. If your bumper is only 700$ then they made a shortcut.. iow. it last not long.. half work.... esspecially with chromework, you get what you pay for!