dutchzcarguy

Didn't read it all but just wanted to say.. the rear springs are the same but the fronts (i heard) are 2 different length's (and strength?) did you know? This was done for balancing out the weight diff. front L and front R.. So.. original there are 3 types of spring used on a 240z..

Hi guys, Can someone tell me what's the difference between a euro 280zxt and a usa 280zx turbo ECU (Yes the 280zx turbo has a ecu like ECCS.. As it has a Microprocessor (and thus a clockfrequency!) it's a electronic computer) Where the nonturbo had a sort of analog computer the turbo had a real processor in it! Some guy from Belgium needs a ECU for a 1983 euro 280zx turbo.. nowhere to be found.. i was informed that the usa version will not fit.. someone have some info on the type/part number that's used in 280zx turbo usa and euro? Thanks, for any info!

Really guys, don't laugh.. NO structural rust! (for as long you don't really look behind the fenders..) Hey D..d..d..denniell (shoudn't it be D..d..d..deny?) 🤣 Make some pic's of the part behind the front fenders for us.. (The part just behind the front wheels.. Internal it's gone i bet.)

I doubt that is possible.. as there are also internal grease "lines" neccessary.. When/if you take them apart.. don't use any force as it will give you a lot of stress.. if it go's wrong with those tedioes needle bearings, take some time off as it's really a pain sometimes.. As your u-joints are not new and you will have sand in them i would for sure clean em out and install them with new grease. (Those seals are never so good to withstand the pressure of the sand.. and the (sand/coal) dust will ruin your needlebearings.) About the arrow, is there another arrow on the other u-joint at the other end of the drive axle? and is it pointing in the same direction?

Those arrows can have something to do with the in-out speed of a u-joint.. i bet the other u-joint in the same axle has the arrow 180 degrees turned! A output of a u-joint has a sinus wave like outputspeed and the next u-joint needs to be in a 180 degrees setting to undo this and not double this problem??? I have no idea.. does that make any sense? haha.. 😮 More here: Universal joint - Wikipedia

When i saw your first picture i thought there is the inlet for the grease.. but pic 2 told me it's not! Maybe on the older ones there is the little screw were one can install the greasenipple to grease the thing.. and is yours a newer one that's greased for life and has no inlet for grease any longer.. the arrow is still in the casting but has no use.. just my 2 cents.. could be wrong.. I can see 3 of the 4 corners that could have the little ( brass?) screw were you can install the nipple but i guess on the 4th spot is also no little screw? If they have no little screw those u-joints are greased for (a shorter?) life.. I don't think you can drill holes in u-joints.. ALSO.. aren't you worried that there gets dust from the sand or coal in your u-joints? Or do you take them apart after blasting and pack them with new grease? I WOULD! It's a tedious job but saves you later on a lot of headaches! (If possible and in budget i would renew these important parts i think u-joints are! still good ones with known low miles i would reuse with new grease.)

As some guys here know, i'm also here to learn some english writing.. 😉 Hey Paul.. read your paper on the engine in the first pic.. hihi.. what kind of linkage? I don't have a good answer on your question, but overall.. there are A LOT of differences in these cars parts.. sigh..

Yeah.. me dummy.. i was thinking of the 280zx pressure there as those have the pump under the fueltank. they need a high pressure filter as your car has at the moment.. (i think i see one on the pictures.. like a 280zx fuelfilter.)

You could use a piece of clear fuel line though.. 😉

If it happens again, the needle valves of the carbs (are in the top of the fuel bowl) are sticking. clean them by spraying some carb cleaner into them.. if it happens more after that, replace these little needlevalves (watch out these can be 2 different ones for the front and rear carbs!) As the fuelbowls have air outlets, you can blow air into these needle valves without a problem.. then your sure they are open. Also were could you buy the new pump?

Oh well.. remanufactured and REMANufactured.. there are a lot of differences.. I can't tell from that pic if it's any good.. missing a lot of parts.. sigh.. About the video.. can't tell as i never seen those testers at work.. (Never had a ignition problem ... i wonder why? )

I found prices like 150-170 dollar but overhere they are at a (little?) better price.. look: Hatch Tail Gate Hinge Rubber Seal 240Z 260Z 280Z | Z Car Depot Inc

And yes.. those seals are at a crazy price!!

I think not to important as the 280zx has none.. But then again, it's a different car.. I thought about this and i would use some rubber from for example a car inner tire or some other flexible rubber that is about a mm thick. Some inner tire from a mountain bike.. get it for free at the bike store! (ask for a leaky one) Maybe you can make something out of them with some (black)rubber glue? Don't need to look beautiful! It's just a sock for the hinge! 👍

Yup.. and now a piece of plywood 3mm over it otherwise the box of cardboard is to weak/flexible.. I doný know how the postmen over there are but they throw things.. they don't care. 🤬

Also.. watch out behind the spring is a ball bearing ball! leave it in! Don't loose it! 🙂 (Adding: this spring is holding your 5th speed in position and it no longer jumps out of gear.. Also, if you have balance trouble in your powertrain (shaking stick..) it's also a cause for falling out of gear. Then you have some extra work to do.. )

In the main plate (between the 2 halves) are two springs behind short bolts (or one i don't remember) and it's got to short.. best to install a new one or as i ones did. you can make the spring longer again with a side cutting set of pliers.. just pinch the spring with the wirecutter between the windings. (translationproblems haha. hope you understand what i'm saying/meaning to say!) Measure the length before and after, ad some 3-4mm i think..guess.. (1/8 inch!)

Elaborate.. Is there a spring on the pedal? or you mean the one on the slave-cylinder? on the new slavecylinders the spring is IN the cylinder.. iirc?

Ofcourse you mean: the engine didn't start. cranking is when the engine turns with the help of the startermotor.. Or "is i" stupido? tell me i'm not offended You checked the ignition by using the (very) old one that ones was replaced? it wasn't replaced for nothing.. Get yourself a complete set for the ignition, loan one or buy one, a loaned one of a perfect working car would be best as you now can be sure it is a good one! ( a old laurel or other 2400cc car can get you one..) maybe someone on your local market can help you.

About 7 years back i had the opportunity to buy a set of 3.. those were the last ones orig nissan.. I think these pumps are for a laurel Datsun 2400.. they look the same as a 240z fuelpump and are compatible! I have 2 for sale at 350 euro a piece.. yes i know not cheap but as you guys say.. find one.. sorry.. I looked the partnumber up and it is a Laurel pump.. If you want you can use a old top on the new pump as the only difference is the fuel out- (or in-?) let. Price is also so high because i hate to send stuff to the states.. it feels like bringing water to the see.. 😫

Without the spacer the pump can't pump at full capacity as the arm is to close to the rondell on your camshaft! Also the pump can get to hot .. then you will need a new pump.. watch out for the cheap pumps on ebay.. they only last for a short time. (I got the original pump on my 240z now for 50+ years..unbelievable!) Get yourself a new nissan orig. pump if it's damaged.

send it on a piece of plywood i would advice...

Oh well that's your good right but tell me have you ever then tested another ignition system on your engine? (sorry if you have i didn't read the whole text as i'm tired.. and to lazy haha) Now you don't/can't know if it's any good... Do i need to tell the story of the guy with the Mercedes block allover again, he was also convinced it was a good block.... NEVER EVER go out that some parts are okay because you bought them new.. they can't be a piece of S**T.. The most important thing in finding a mall function is to check everything. And never asume something shoud be good because it was a new part. (Lesson i learned not long ago.. Few years ago i installed a new clutch slave cylinder.. on my 280zx.. And a week later i tried to use it as i needed to switch the direction of the car on my lift.. the clutch worked no longer! (There was a puddle of oil under the car! There was a crack in the slavecylinder!! Then i took the old box out of the "round archive" (wastebin 😉 ) and saw on the box: made in Italy.. I already had a giant dislike to italy parts and stuff but now i really hated them.. Makers of JUNK! )

🤣 Ah.. that's what you mean... okay! 👍

That's the one i ment.. (the bend in the left lower corner) what's the other one then?? There are 6 parts.. 3 little connectors and 3 big.. (= 2 cornered strips 1 longer top part..)