dutchzcarguy

I bought some from AC carpet in alabama i belief they are.. sended me the wrong ones for a 2 seater instead of the 2+2.. i found out when i was to late to return them. they make one for the 280zx maybe also for the 280z.. BUT.. they don't make the rear part with the openings for the straps.. all sayd.. they make a bad copy. 🤢 Yours looks like someone (tried to) paint(ed) it with some black interior paint?

A fault easely made.. and maybe you can find that cable in a service manual? (schematic diagram)

Sumitomo sounds familiar.. the 240z has them but i think.. only with a no 6 angled sparkplug boot? As these cables are now over 35 years old i don't think they can work very well. After a good clean they could be used on a engine that's under someone's coffeetable just for the looks! (It's possible that the 280z original has 2 angled sp.pl.boots.. as my 280zx has 2 two eh too twoo too.. 2 also eh sigh😁..) My experience with old cables.. About 2 years ago i did about 1000 km on my 280zx resto and those sparkplugcables were the original 1979 cables, they worked well (some special isolating spray over them) but.. i'm now restoring the engineroom ( for over 2 years! sigh) and already installed some orig. nissan leads that i bought some years ago special for this restore. I'm not sure these are sumitomo, but came out a nissan box..

Don't see them.. i do see a red one with a BLUE line on it and a black with male bullit.. i don't know where it's for but the black with male bullit is the negative side..🙂

Thanks Zedhead for the info.. you gave ... on April 1st..

I thought maybe it's for coolant in/out from a AC equipped version? sigh..

I've never seen it but what z or zx has this on the rear of the starter? Maybe on a 280z as i never owned that type.. but what's the function of this rubber grommet on the end of this starter? I can't think of anything.. under that rear part are the brushes and the collector.. Thanks !

I think i can say from all of us, we hope you get as old as Mr Katayama, he also drove a 240z for a very long time (i guess..)

Thanks Guys! someone in Latvia restored one.. and he bought it in The Netherlands.. and the dutch guy bought in the States.. Air-Cooled Interceptor: Kawasaki KZ1000P Police Special – BikeBound

As we are talking about CHiPs, what brand of bikes are they riding? It's not american, it's a Japanese bike.. Kawasaki? I stopped "freezed" the picture a lot of times but i never could see/tell the brand.. They are 4 cyl. and i think Japanese... (the smart thing to ride.. 😉 ) Someone ?

Wow! 52 years! congrats! 👍 My 240z is also 52 years old but i have it only for 25 years.. I'm driving z and zx for 32 years now.. my first z was a zx, a 280zx, and my last bought one.. also a 280zx.. hihi.. So.. Mr Arnett you must be 70+ and still driving a Z! wow! Nice!

CHips was it called! CHiPs (TV Series 1977–1983) - IMDb I'm sure i saw some z's and zx in that series!

Sorry? on your in between jobs day or ? don't know what you mean with layover? To ad to the list i sometimes watch that series where 2 highway cops do theire work in miami or so? from the '70's also that series.. highway cops? You see all kinds of classic cars drive by haha.. There IS only one car i really hate and it's that stupid beetle.. a older friend drove a cabrio.. pfff... (sigh) those things are impossible to drive fast as we say: dat ding is NIET VOORUIT TE BRANDEN! WAT EEN SCHIJTBAK! 🙊

I know the orig 240z is a Nichira. Is this 260z also from that fabricator? I should say: "Nichira" big on the rear muffler. The orig 240z exhaust didn't have very big diameter and could profit from bigger ones, i don't know but did the 260z have some bigger diameter exhaust pipe? (also is the partnumber different? i do have fiches but no reader present sadly..) Here some pictures from a original 240z exhaust (rear part) last made in 1999! (for as far i know!)

280zx L28 TURBO Haltech 550 install - Bing video

Yeah found it! Now he has to decide if it also will fit on a EURO 280zx turbo! 🙂

THANKS, THANKS A LOT! I think that's a good alternative for him.. Thanks man! I'll send him what i find when i google it. Mart(in)

Nope.. he does not.. He bought a car i have seen before and IS a euro (Dutch) turbo zx! I know because i've seen the car years ago when i bought some parts from the man that had this car in the Netherlands.. it's now in Belgium. Thanks Zed, but no.. it's 100% a 280zx turbo and he didn't tell me but it must be a 1983 turbo as there was only in 1983 a turbo version in the Netherlands orig. imported and sold by the dealer. And folks.. i do know the difference between a turbo and a injector fan haha! 🤣 I told him he could go for a megasquirt system or maybe something from Jenvey, but i don't know if it's possible to use that on a turbo engine. He's just someone that asked me for parts but i don't have any for the turbo cars.. One thing is very clear.. there IS a lot of difference between the euro and USA version! 😫

Also check the fusebox on bad connections. take out 1 fuse and close the clamps and check it they are still have a good conn. to the back cable. clean the fuse clamps with alcohol. Put back fuse and check if it is clamped well.. next fuse etc. etc.

280zx turbo USA version.. won't fit.. see connector euro and connectorS usa..

Thanks ZED! But i only repeat what he told me, i'm just helping him out, if someone has one i give his adres (if he is oké with that.) He told me that a USA version did not fit.. (Also: a euro has 204 HP and a usa has 180HP .. or could it be that there is a difference because the usa is in HP DIN. and the euro is in HP SAE ? (That could explain the difference!) He sended me a pic of the connector of his 280zx turbo: I got a 280zx turbo service manual but they only refer to it as: The EFI control unit.. No numbers no nothing.. I see that the unit on zdriver.com has a complete different connector.. actually 2 connectors! so that's probably why it won't fit.

No one? Looking for a ECU for euro 280zx turbo. 1983.

I was talking about the amp that is (always one) IN the radio.. For as far i know has the original radio a double wire for the (mono) speaker and is not attached to the chassis of the car. With a Ohm-meter you can always check if there is a connection between the speakerwires and ground. there should be none! (disconnect the radio when measuring the wires.) Speakers can be 4 or 8 ohms that's not very important.. You can mix them when you attach a 8 ohm speaker to a 4 ohm amp output you will get only half of the power out but still enough.. when you put a 4 ohm speaker to a 8 ohm output you will hear that it starts to scream/distort at you.. sort of.. as the volume go's up you'll have to watch the temperature of your amp. but most times it's no problem.. The problem starts when you constantly listen music on max power then your amp could get to hot! (Another solution is to series 2 x 4 ohms speakers to get 8 ohms, then you'll never can blow up the amp and the speakers can handle twice as much power!) You guys in america have 120v and 3 fase 220 volt That's what i thought.. But you make a mess of it!! I looked it up and see that the united states have: 120/208 V / 277/480 V / 120/240 V / 240 V / 480 V (all at 60 Hz) ! Her you go Cliff! : Complete list: Three-phase electric power (voltages/frequencies) - World Standards I think most North american states have 120/208 volt ( so one line (1 phase against ground*) is 120volts and 3 phase is 240volt between the phases.) We've gone from 220v/380v to 230v/400volt about 15 years ago.. * I don't know how you call the 0volt wire.. so i called it ground..

This does not matter.. the speaker's housing is totally isolated from the speaker's coil. Most radio's (amp's) are NOT happy when you use the minus or chassis on one side of the speaker.. You need to use 2 isolated wires from the amplifier to the speaker, NO ground! (Do not ground one of these wires onto your cars chassis!) Eh... No.. But it can blow-up your amplifier! When you put a testlight (basicly a resistor of low impedance..) between a 12V+ and a speakerwire.. you are putting a voltage (DC) on a amplifier output and that can be catastrophic! (Personally i NEVER use a testlight always a multimeter or scope.) If you put some DC on a speaker, do this with a 10-20 watt old speaker and a 1,5 volt battery.. when you put the 1,5v to the speaker you will see the cone go in or out depending on where you put the plus and minus! So you can imagine the music signal must be AC as the cone moves on the music IN and OUT.. Imagine.. that speaker cone gets a signal made out of many,many!! frequencies and it has to "speak out" ALL of these frequencies at once!! Now you probably have much more respect for a speaker.. About home audio... As an audiofile (My other expensive hobby 😉 ) I got some experience with amps and speakers.. The speakers are the most important part in a audio system.. you can have a perfect set of Amps/recorders/players/tuners but when your speakers stink.. you'll have no good sound. I don't expect a good sound out of a speaker that cost 30$.. Personally i listen to speakers more in the range of 1000-3000$ (Studer's ReVox Symbol MK2's and Zachry EM24's (These are from the 70's and 80's!)) Here some dream speakers....

Hihi.. As i have worked some time in studio-audio... long time ago.. i find this a funny remark.. CO thanks for the explanation.. it's not a bad explanation.. i wanted to ad: IF you DO measure some DC on your loudspeaker cable.. your amplifier is leaking DC and this kills your speaker if it's a lot.. It also distorts your sound as your speakercone will come to far out of the speakerchassis or if it's a negative DC it wil got to far inside and get stuck.. DC on a speaker is always a very bad thing. If you want to get rid of a speaker, put some 200 volts DC on it and look how fast the cone will get out of the unit! BTW.. 200 volts AC does the job aswell 😉