dutchzcarguy

View Advert Wanted, for my resto.. datsun 280zx 2+2 1979, front window clips. Hello, I'm looking for the 2 strips of rubber needed (upper and lower.) to put in a new front window glass in a datsun 280zx 2+2. there is a firm in the States who sells one of them but i need both, these strips with (stainless?) clips are NLA for some time, who has a solution to this problem? I could just lay the stainless trimming into some rubber sealant.. but then you can forget it to take the trimming of in one piece when your window needs replacement. sought advice! Advertiser dutchzcarguy Date 01/17/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1979 Model 280zx 2+2

Just another week at the bodyshop.. Some pic's of the right hand floor.. Welded spot and also on this pic the two bolts that in a lot zx's are a problem but not in this car! (the red is not rust it's a Original layer of the old glue that sat under the greenish tape.) Bought a old r-hand door for some internal parts, like the little clips../ window mechanism/ opener...etc. Here one can see what a "normal 280zx door looks like after 40 years.. So far so good, this is what the car looks like, putting it together for some fitment checks. Maybe next week or so.. the bodyman of the shop is taking over to get it perfect. I wanted to do that also but as the germans say: ICH HABE DIE NASE VOLL!! (STAUB) (translated.. I'm fedd up with it.. or.. I'm sick of it?) no seriously.. i've done this before but i can let them do this in less than half the time i would need. (And if i'm honest.. i really.. really!!! don't like prep and sanding!) Later on assembling the car looks like a nice job to do, especially now most parts are ready to fit to the car. Getting the front window in seems to be one of the last hurdles to take.. Does anyone know where i can get those clipstrips (rubber band with several stainless clips on them) needed to put the stainless trimming on? There was a shop is the States but they only had the lower or the upper strip for sale, (i'm not sure ) if i order there i need them both..

Today i painted the hood and the 2 front fenders... after a week of... yep... mostly sanding.. The fenders are going to need some bondo were the new parts were welded in. Here some pic's of the work done.. Ready for epoxy.. To weld these fenders you have to have the 3 courses Newspaper welding, otherwise you will not be able to weld them! Definitely in the wheel arch! Here you can see the copper welding i've done in the arch.. Result.. The last weld-job (?) is a spot .. a typical DATSUN 280ZX rusty spot halfway in the floor, the left side was done last year and now i discovered that the other side (right) is also in need of an 2x2 inch peace of 1mm steel.. Also, the spot where the rear axle is connected to the chassis is a typical spot but in my case no problem at all!

I have never seen one without! Even the very good one i'm restoring has some damage.. one day i'll take those little bumps out.. Things to check/worry about.. I've got one concern for you.. a V8 in an already not so very strong chassis can be a problem.. even more when it's a T-bar chassis. The longer length of a s130 makes it not strong enough for a V8. Look for rust direct under the floor where the front safety belts are hanging.. between the point were the rear axel is attached and the side of the car. There is a piece of floor that is double layered steel.. and Always a problem.. (I'll put a pic in my thread.. restoring a 1979 slickroof 2+2 280zx this afternoon.. after that i (now!) go into the paintboot for some more painting parts! )

Yup! That reminded me about Hugh Laurie and Stephen Fry! ( should there be someone who do not know them.. google them!)

Use a standard .. what is it.. 20-25 Kv coil.. all that 123 ignition nonsense with 40+ Kv… gives you only one thing… trouble!!!… just my 2 cents...

Sorry but what is a GT junior? Italian? Those brown spots (round wheel arch and where the bumper go's are not rust? pics after a good cleaning??

Problem is those antenna's are not worth looking at.. leave alone the hassle to install them.. they work a few weeks or month and break down.. those relais probably cost more than the antenna, buy a good antenna or don't do it at all.. just my 2 cents..

Yes Bart, it is going well, i try to work on it every working day and i get a lot of support of the guys who work at the bodyshop. Also from the owner of the shop. Because i count all the hours i work at it (or someone else, like the pro painter or bodywork guy) last week we went past the 500 hours ! working on the car and i think it's going to be another 250 to complete the restauration.. ? At least... These days i'm working on the fenders, left in particular and the hood (or bonnet!) whole lot of.. you guest it... sanding! ? Even a brand new bonnet needs work, a Original NISSAN hood… where do i find them haha...! Restoring the left fender.. left lower part of left front fender.. I had a problem with heat, despite the copper/silicium welding i now did.. but about 20 little blows with a special hammer made it strait.. learned again something! Then i discovered that i welded it to straight down, had to correct that.. now the lower front part deviates inward as it should! (see last pic in this part.) lower front left fender. Putting in a little piece in the wheelarch. If you want to do this… i told the owner of the shop you have to have a diploma to weld newspaper paper.. ? Sanding left and right fender.. (still busy..) Sanding (with some rattlecan paint to sort out the imperfections). Making the fenders and hood ready for epoxy coating. (later on the blue paint is sanded off completely before epoxy.) Front left corner, welded in part fender, deviates inward.

Nissan called them mud-guards if i remember correctly...

You mean a rotisary? i think? ? Like to see some pic's of the bad spots on a USA type 280zx.. mine, (you can find it under: restoration of a 1979 2+2 slickroof 280zx) was almost without any rust, only the carglass guys had made a mess of the frontwindow edge at some time.. nice to see someone is going to restore another 280zx.

Thats why i gave the advice to put the wire on the component side.. as pro's do.. (i've worked with studer revox machines, and ones opened up a TEAC... wow, there are a lot of those wires in there! A ReVox is well engineered.. they don't do/need that!)

Clean the board well, then take of the damaged line(s) on the board and drill 2 small holes (1mm) at the ends of the line that has to be replaced and then put in a .8mm wire on the other side (componentside) of the board. It will look good and work well ? (Make shure the board is clean for soldering, use good resin core solder tin. )

Sad story, i would put in a lot of pictures, they say more than a Thousand words..

I'm with Charles, only if the rest of the loom is a firehazard i'll put in a new loom at this time..

Small video of the first parts been sprayed with epoxy. 20191221_133026.mp4

Another week at the painter/bodyshop.. Most time sanding and eh.. sanding and then…. some sanding! ? Also used some new to me tools.. to get out some dents that were to severe to lieve alone.. Did i say earlyer that sanding is my favorite hobby? NOT !!! First here the pic of the welded in new part were the left mirror sits. I know now the pro's and cons of copper/selicium welding… one con is the weld tore easely when you want to lower it by hitting it with a hammer! So a second weld was neccessary. Today (saterday) was a important day.. The first parts became a layer of epoxy in the spraybooth…. BY ME! I've used a spraygun many years ago but not much experience with them.. i think this went well.. Some small dents are still in there but... not bad for 40+ year old doors! After this they get smoothed out with some bondo and become a new set off paint. (Car will be painted in Nissan TK3, an Original nissan zx color.) Some other pic's of prep.. and sanding.. bare metall pic's.. Rightdoor mirror, bare metall. A "college"had some left over bondo.. i let him leave it on a little dent.. Next i'll probably do the hood and frontfenders prep and epoxy...

Obviously…. ( but there are a lot lathes with reverse gear..) Nice tools!

Just for illustration.. different lugs or wheelnuts.. measure the left diameter of them.

Last summer i had some 280zx turbo wheels under my 240z and discovered that the wheelnuts i use for the winterwheels (are aftermarket rims) are a different size diameter as they are not conical. That gave me a lot of shimmy issues! check the diameter of the wheellugs and the diameter the rims need.

Another week at the bodyshop has gone by.. some progress has been made.. Made the lower parts of the left fender this time, to weld in. Lv = (links voor) or.. left front. front part of the fender. The rear lower part of the left front fender is made but no pic's yet.. Then there was the left door, did some as we say "beeldhouw werk" sculpturing haha, it needs after 40 years and a not perfect strait weld some bondo.. Almost ready for paint... there was a spot that was not perfect.. where the mirror sits or sat.. some rust spots, i better weld some copper in.. ( sp.L= spiegel links) mirror left. maesurements are centimeters. cM. Welded the holes from the mirror.. but then, when i checkt it, the metal was to thin... At the end of the day i went for the better option... I welded it all around.. but no pic yet.. These are the small things that take a lot of time but they are necessary!

Those rear tires are NOT big enough!.... Yeah overalll….BARF...

The first few times i used my early '71 240z I flattened the switch several times with my knees! Then the brake lights stayed out..(US type switch with the 9 contacts!) the switch was broken inside.. Now i'm still driving the car almost 20 years with a frozen switch in off position, some glue keeps it together hahaha… and it's handle is flat with the dash.. i have to put my right knee somewhere haha ?

My 02-'71 doesn't have those ribs either.. Some extra floorstiffness would be also good for bigger europeans ? When i put in a whole new floor i didn't know of them so mine still has none.. oh well, it's 1mm steel i used so it is already a bit stronger than the old floor..

Probably? it's seems to be the better Nylon... Couldn't you make just a new set on them, just a little bit bigger and secure them with rivets (like it was already) ?