dutchzcarguy

Yeah.. restore the horn also. take it apart and clean it, the contact in it has to be clean and needs to be tuned just right otherwise the horn only clicks..

Yeah but i read that they are also a compromise between JIS and PHILLIPS... Point2 in the list... (Link above in #23)

Hey Wallflower? Is the car now finished or sold and busy with the next project? Let us know! 🙂 BTW.. the exhaust at the last pic.. you say you made the exhaust yourself. also the damper? what kind of damping material did you use in the damper?

Yeap! metall against the header, why? Thats the part that is really going to be the hottest part so that's the way to go! 😉

Wow.. and it didn't say JIS on the handle or so? funny... so you had them and did not know it! 😮

Sorry, can't... These pics i took from the internet.. the 240z i have is a feb.1971 and not a VERY first edition with those screws in the doors! So i can't help with that. I almost sure that your original screws will have the dimple as Japan in those times used the JIS screws a lot.. Later on.. in my 1979 280zx i see a lot of Phillips! (without the dimple..)

I think the correct screw would be a JIS not a Phillips head screw... JIS looks like the Phillips but has a little dimple in one of the corners of the cross.. You also need a JIS screwdriver for that.. On a datsun 240z there are many screws with JIS... now you know also why the Phillips screwdriver never fitted very well 😉 .... See de dimple on it..

Reminds me of the time a friend was making a mixingconsole cable.. with a cap.. he was halfway making a 24 channel mixingconsole wiring.. i came by to look how it was going.. after i saw his work... he was complaining about the difficult work (don't know if you ever solderd some shielded wire but it's a precision job!) And i told him to stop immediatly.. he asked WHY?.. i sayd if you see it you get angry... after i showed him the cap laying around he went nuts.. The other side of the cable was already ready so no options then to take all the wiring of and start over.. pfff...

What i've done is you put a heatshrink on to long.. let it stick out a half inch or so.. then fold it back and shrink another short piece over that! You end up with 2 layers and a closed end. 🙂

I don't know if there is someone that made these beam's ( see pic.) can you make them yourself by hand? Still a lot of work.. i would look for a better chassis. Also.. take a look at the inner side of the corners of the chassis where you normally lift the car.. there should be a inner steel plate between the inside and outside part. Lots of 280zx's have bad corners and can't be lifted there (lifting points.)

Yeah.. seems to be repairable!! I've seen cars that had fiberglass repairs and came out to be unrepairable.. Think you can restore the damage because its not to much! 👍 I'm curious how the corner just in front of the left rear wheel comes out when you take the glassfiber out there..

Sure hope it's not a scam! WOW.. 100$ for a set of 4 of them?? can i have a set...or 5? 🙂

On the right of the hole i see rust...steel.. on the left there is no rust and glass fibres in the edge of the fender... so.. this was a local repair with glassfibres.. that's a bad omen!!

You take it with a smile but this car needs a lot.. all depends on what's under the fenders.. Could be a little and could be gone completly bad.. On the pic of the front of the rear wheels i see some glassfibre repair... A BIG ALARM just went off!! I know what you are going thrue.. In 1991 i bought a 240z ... original Dutch (Read: complete pile of rust!!) ... After i removed the flooring i took all the good parts off of the car and called the local wrecker to pic up the car... it went with a good roof.. damn... the rest was junk.. Today i still drive a 240z with euro (Dutch) drivetrain! 😉 I'm curious what's under the fenders please remove them and make some pics and place them here!

Before you even put more hours and work in this body... (i would not restore the damage it's to much..) take a good look under the front fenders near the doors.. I think the body is to far gone there.. as it is a real collector from mud and water. Damn that bottom is rusty! Don't know your budget but get yourself a better body i think!

Take a good look at the following picture.. That's why i should restore this car before i even consider to sell.. this feb 1971 car does restored between 35 and 80000 dollar.. (I got some rear wheel arches for it and everything else.) What i want for it as is.. is a difficult question to answer! This type is the most valuable at the time for me as it does not have the (leaky) rear deck vents and already the side vents but has (almost?) all the other 1st type features.. i can't put a price on it, and also if i sell now i want to sell some parts also for it so the next owner can make it a good restored car.. But i am under the impression that you want a turn key car? (Ready to go?) Wrong wheelarches and a very bad paintjob..

Hahaha.. yes.. i have no pictures! It's a solid car only the fenders have a little rust and the hood is gone bad on the front.. but those parts i never took off.. This car looks like a pile of crap.... Yes it's a original 4 speed ami that i converted to a euro original 5 speed (and diff!) with orig 2,4 Ltr engine. roundtop carbs and euro balance tube! I think i better restore this car first because people always judge a car on it's paintjob! Something that one shoud NOT do because the bodywork on a 240z in much more important.. I do have all the parts to restore it to a 50 grand car....(Brand new hood.. and lots of other stuff) Even a orig. euro 5 speed gearbox extra and a orig 2,4 ltr engine that i could use to make a stroker or so keeping the matching numbers engine original to the car.... possibilities possibilities..... pff, that's gonna take me another 7-9 years.. I restored the engine by giving it some new gaskets and oil seals in 2007. Today after 51 years it still drives over 200kph! But this is not what your looking for, you want a car that is ready to drive, this one is roadworthy but needs a complete restoration.. some pics from 2012.... (Original was the car silver.. not Ferrari red..)

Yeah.. the seller just thinks if he really wants a z car.. he will come and take a look at it.. and when your in the neighbourhood you drive another 30km and maybe you can make a offer on my 240z.. it's paintjob is bad (over 30 years old i guess) but it's solid and always had APK and i drove it over 21 years! It's the wanted early type 240z from (feb)1971

I could say about 3mm would be a nice gap? (1/8 inch? ) For all the gaps you mention.. just know that the gap on these oldtimers are smaller than the gaps on modern cars i think? always start with the door to quarter panel, then the fender to door and combine that with the hood to fender gap! The hatch is simply 1 part that just fits..or not.. than you have to do some welding until it fits.. Look local at old car gaps and take some measures of it..

Eh.. are they not the same BPR6ES from NGK? Overhere they are the same in my 240z '71 and 280zx '79.. theire gap is also 1,1 mm. (could be to big for the 240z ignition but it runs perfect on it..)

Maybe you can make some out of plexiglas on a lath.. @Captain Obvious? Can you give some exact dimensions?

Don't know exactly what you mean with a "clear washer" .. i think a washer from colourless plastic? I needed a colourless plastic round sticker for on the paint where the rubber of the tailgate comes when you close it.. and i found one in the giant stock of my painter, he has the straingest parts for cars in many many assortment boxes.. Maybe your painter has some for you..

Any news on the blue one? (I bet he didn't even react.. to your request.) I was thinking.. have you ever driven a 280zx.. maybe thats a better choise, But hurry they are rapidly going up!! think "van der steen" has a nice one here on MP.

Yeah.. and... take a lot of pics before you take it apart the next time.. we all learned that after ... My best guess is it's part of the dash.. somewhere..

For NON Americano.. that's in bills of 100 dollar.. 😉 so it was Benjamin Franklin on those bills..