dutchzcarguy

WOW.... not SPAM ?? You could ask a $1000 easy you know...

Oh? But he sits on the roof! On a big sofa.. on the middle of the roof!! 😂 It was so funny!

On the european mainland almost (or all??) are driving on the right.. eh... RIGHT side.. of the road , and steering is on the left (WHERE it's supposed to be!!) Hahaha.. yes just EFFING around with the english!! (And Japanese..)

Btw, he also has a lot of parts for sale too! For Datsun 240z 260z 280zx and 300zx z31 z32.. Just ask him he speaks english!

Hi Guys, It's a sad thing, Jan Is selling his Datsun 240z racer as he is terminal ill.. You can find the advertising here.. ≥ Nissan 240/260 Z 2.4 Sport Coupé — Oldtimers — Marktplaats It has got all the special features.. won many prices.. Price is 75000 Euro's.

Not necessary, only when you see/think that it comes back from the blaster with half a roof or so?? It's more important to check if the doors and windows fit before going to work on any paintwork and... thats not happening this year i guess.. Your bracing is good, but don't exaggerate it.. Nice to see you working on it again! 👍 Mart

For sure a rusty hole! I don't approve what they did.. just say i've seen worse.. I would take out the whole piece and weld in a new part for sure.. but if you don't have a welder and want to clean it up a little you could do this with screws.. not allot better but better than a rusthole hey! I think he has cleaned out the rusthole, did some painting against rust and put that steel plate on there... with screws.. I've seen a original dutch car that had 6! patches of aluminum pop rivetted under the car and... all the chemical reactions totally destroyed the car!

I prefer to do this with 3 persons, one inside pulling the rope and 2 on the outside controlling the screen.. if you have/ can find a guy that has done it before you will complete the job and be a experience richer I learnt it when i was with friends that were busy with a volvo screen and it looked very easy.. it was a same as a 240z front screen, you start with the bottom and work your way up at the end the screen pops into it's place, much simpler than the work you have with a 280zx screen i know now out of experience...pfff... all that chrome work..pfff...

THAT'S the best part of a restoration hey! 👍

I think the "2 ropes idea" is not so bad with a flat or almost flat glass but when it's like a front 240z windscreen that wants to break i think.. and will.. because halfway the pressure gets to much.. But.. nice thinking and experimenting is always interesting.. but i would do the 1 rope way.

Yep! just seen this topic and.... YUUPP!! your Crazy! (Just kidding!)

Lots of cars build a vacuum in the fueltank.. it's not much as there is a very small hole in the lid of the tank that is just big enough to give the tank some air.. My 300zxtt always sucks a bit air when i open the tank, thats normal. Never had a pressure or vacuum in the 240z.

Nice original survivor with a little flaw.. 😮 Nice solution when you don't weld... A lot better than a smear of glassfiber.. (often seen..) And these beams, are they original.. look a bit heavy steel.. and do i see a weld in top left of pic in this beam?

HAhahaha... Bart .. i have seen MUCH worse MUCH worse!! When i bought my 240z in 1998, for a few bucks.. it had a "bottom" made out of angled iron and a floor of.. both 2,5mm steel!! It was welded in on a few spots and made watertight with... glassfiberrrrr!! Terrible!! I took it all out and when i was done there was about 50 kilo's of steel lying on the floor! Now.. surprisingly the car was faster already hahaha!! (I made my own new floor of 1mm steel and it's still in great condition as it was all made with special steel.)

Top one in your first pic is from a 1972 240z.. i'm sure. (Also my 71 has that one and later models too i think?)

@Mike

SPAM? SPAM? SPAMMM?? SPAM? spam?? SPAMMMM !!!!!!!!! spam SPAMMMM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SPAM !!

I to got a s30-26xxx from feb '71 (and also called a series1,5..? ) i like these best because it was the first without the (stupid) airvents on the rear hatch.. It was a bad idea to make it there because of the exhaust fumes.. About rust.. if the picture does not show a common spot where rust occurs, get ready to fix that spot! (Often a front fender covers THÉ rustspot of the Datsuns.)

Should be simple.. 12v to plus (red?) wire. minus 0v to black or the chassis of the radio.. (Should be stated on the chassis that this is negative.. on chassis!) Then a wire in the antenna connection.. (just a peace of 3 foot or so.) in the inner contact of the connector, this functions as a antenna... (duuuhhh) THen at last a speaker on the.... speakerwires! Well.. it should work now.. good luck!

There is at least one tube with a bend in it that you will squeeze closed with regular tubing.. get rid of the plastic evap tank (they brake as well (ageing) ) and you need only one tube iirc.

Btw.. nice booth!

So your thumb got screwed? (Sorry but had to make this joke..) i wish your thumb get well fast !! Maybe you can make a (metall strip) bow or 2-3 inside the filter then you have a bigger filter were the air go's through much faster? just a tip.. the filter itself you use is big enough for that. Take your time for paintwork, get to know your (new) paintgun.

Yes, at first i thought that too but if the sides (and bottom) are that bad, you will not have enough thickness of steel most times and it will become a mess. A beam that looks that way is very thin on the spots were there are no holes.. there are "almost holes" a lot! So replacing is key. (keep also a eye on the straightness while taking this beam out.. (you already took out that crossmember a 280 has between those underside beams or was it already missing? it sits just under the propshaft.)

When you have a shop that does it for a living, absolutely yes.. if you have a fan.. a bit less i think.. but your in the ballpark 😉 ( OH oef.. .... I have to clean up my workplace PRONTO !! 🤣🤣 ) (I'm disabled for 20+ years now and that's my excuse.... sorry but cleaning is my last worry.)