dutchzcarguy

THAT'S the best part of a restoration hey! 👍

I think the "2 ropes idea" is not so bad with a flat or almost flat glass but when it's like a front 240z windscreen that wants to break i think.. and will.. because halfway the pressure gets to much.. But.. nice thinking and experimenting is always interesting.. but i would do the 1 rope way.

Yep! just seen this topic and.... YUUPP!! your Crazy! (Just kidding!)

Lots of cars build a vacuum in the fueltank.. it's not much as there is a very small hole in the lid of the tank that is just big enough to give the tank some air.. My 300zxtt always sucks a bit air when i open the tank, thats normal. Never had a pressure or vacuum in the 240z.

Nice original survivor with a little flaw.. 😮 Nice solution when you don't weld... A lot better than a smear of glassfiber.. (often seen..) And these beams, are they original.. look a bit heavy steel.. and do i see a weld in top left of pic in this beam?

HAhahaha... Bart .. i have seen MUCH worse MUCH worse!! When i bought my 240z in 1998, for a few bucks.. it had a "bottom" made out of angled iron and a floor of.. both 2,5mm steel!! It was welded in on a few spots and made watertight with... glassfiberrrrr!! Terrible!! I took it all out and when i was done there was about 50 kilo's of steel lying on the floor! Now.. surprisingly the car was faster already hahaha!! (I made my own new floor of 1mm steel and it's still in great condition as it was all made with special steel.)

Top one in your first pic is from a 1972 240z.. i'm sure. (Also my 71 has that one and later models too i think?)

@Mike

SPAM? SPAM? SPAMMM?? SPAM? spam?? SPAMMMM !!!!!!!!! spam SPAMMMM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SPAM !!

I to got a s30-26xxx from feb '71 (and also called a series1,5..? ) i like these best because it was the first without the (stupid) airvents on the rear hatch.. It was a bad idea to make it there because of the exhaust fumes.. About rust.. if the picture does not show a common spot where rust occurs, get ready to fix that spot! (Often a front fender covers THÉ rustspot of the Datsuns.)

Should be simple.. 12v to plus (red?) wire. minus 0v to black or the chassis of the radio.. (Should be stated on the chassis that this is negative.. on chassis!) Then a wire in the antenna connection.. (just a peace of 3 foot or so.) in the inner contact of the connector, this functions as a antenna... (duuuhhh) THen at last a speaker on the.... speakerwires! Well.. it should work now.. good luck!

There is at least one tube with a bend in it that you will squeeze closed with regular tubing.. get rid of the plastic evap tank (they brake as well (ageing) ) and you need only one tube iirc.

Btw.. nice booth!

So your thumb got screwed? (Sorry but had to make this joke..) i wish your thumb get well fast !! Maybe you can make a (metall strip) bow or 2-3 inside the filter then you have a bigger filter were the air go's through much faster? just a tip.. the filter itself you use is big enough for that. Take your time for paintwork, get to know your (new) paintgun.

Yes, at first i thought that too but if the sides (and bottom) are that bad, you will not have enough thickness of steel most times and it will become a mess. A beam that looks that way is very thin on the spots were there are no holes.. there are "almost holes" a lot! So replacing is key. (keep also a eye on the straightness while taking this beam out.. (you already took out that crossmember a 280 has between those underside beams or was it already missing? it sits just under the propshaft.)

When you have a shop that does it for a living, absolutely yes.. if you have a fan.. a bit less i think.. but your in the ballpark 😉 ( OH oef.. .... I have to clean up my workplace PRONTO !! 🤣🤣 ) (I'm disabled for 20+ years now and that's my excuse.... sorry but cleaning is my last worry.)

At first one does not see it's out of centre those 2 holes but they are and should be as the orig. wheel has that to! Good work!! 👍

Hi, I would buy new exterior handles because they are made of zamac.. a impossible kind of mix of metall (aluminum,sink,copper..) and they rust in bubbles coming from the inside so if your going to chrome them it's always going to rust again from the airbubbles inside the handle.. (btw, the chrome part of the euro blinkers on the front bumper are made of the same terrible stuff.. 🙄) A good verchrome firm is expensive.. i got one overhere but a good frontbumper, and i must say it was perfect.. costs a 1000 euro's and this was some years ago.. They use first copper than nickel and then a layer of chrome. It's perfect! My chrome firm is here in the Netherlands, i think you should be able to find one in your state.. In Poland are much cheaper chromers but you need to have a good relation.. (They don't have strict environmental rules there, they make a mess of it, but the chromework is good..)

When i see someone laying a (assembled) head this way... i know how good of a technician he is.... 😟 Vinny: I can not emphazise howmuch YOU CAN NOT DO THAT!

What are these rubber things in low middle of the pic called then, I honestly ask because i don't know.. (No idea what you mean with doorjamb rubbers i think these are the doorjamb rubbers..??)

I saw my (usa ) car had a evap tank and normally a euro does not have that.. i took it out and it saves a LOT of hassle with new rubber tubes because the euro version only uses 1 ! rubber hose , so you can close the extra outlets on the tank and one outlet to the top from the fillerhose is enough.. Now you will have only 2 hoses..

Hi DadandladZ, I'm surprised that no one told you, you can download the service manual for your car here on the site.. Only now you have the round top carbs you have to download the 240z (and the 260z for the rest of the car/inlet manifold?) serv.manual. In there you can find the procedure how to set these carbs in the right way. I have'nt read it all but i think you have the wrong inlet manifold and stuff on your car.. also look for leaks because that causes high rev's as you probably already know... good luck!

Hihi, yeah.. I would have changed the topic (again!) but it's no longer possible! 🤣 Who knew that there were so many different track width's?

Yep... that's were i totally agree.. About the marking of a flywheel... i Neverrrr marked a flywheel or clutch assembly on a Datsun.. I'm almost sure never have read this in ANY servicemanual of the Nissan datsuns i repaired.. and i have all the serv.man. of my cars, i don't work on any car without a service manual.. something i really really!!! advice anybody to do because your doomed to get things wrong. Haha.. makes me think of this: like the guy VINNY from american shopper once said: I CAN NOT EMPHASIZE HOW MUCH YOU CAN NOT DO THAT! (He was using a acetylene burner IN a harley block to get rid of a bolt..or something like that! hahaha)

I'm NO engine builder but i think that's tipical american (engines) way to think.. Japanese engines are balanced per part i think? The inner parts are balanced maybe together i don't know but the flywheel/clutch is balanced separatly for as far i know on these japanese engines? Maybe im wrong, i never had to repair a underblock of these engines.. (I also ask myself how a machine would look like that could make a balance in a engine when it's all bolted together? I have heard of balancing the cranck and the connecting rods and pistons are weighed, but no flywheel as it is balanced on it's own..)