xtinc

I'm running MSA 6-1 ceramic coated headers with 2.5" piping. I used a Dynomax bullet muffler about halfway down and a Magnaflow SS muffler at the rear. The car has a low growl from idle to about 3500 then starts to scream after that. The dynomax really helps to eliminate the resonance.

Phred, Thanks for the info and peace of mind. The chain guides and tensioner do have flat washers installed, but I'm going to take your advice to locktite and retorque. Tom

I also used the How to Rebuild book, on page 131 it says "adjust so there is no clearance between the backside of the tensioner shoe and housing". I did count and verify proper link count between cam and crank timing marks, I also checked piston to valve clearance and it's good. Thanks for the reply an I'll try contacting Phred

Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor, an L26 block and early E88 head. I purchased the block from a guy who gave up on his Z project, it had been rebuilt by a reputable shop, bored .030, polished crank, and balanced. I noticed the spec sheet indicated the deck had been shaved, but didn't indicate exactly how much. I'm assuming very minimal to clean the deck surface. The E88 came off my L24, I wasn't the original owner so not sure of previous head work, but the machine shop also shaved a very nominal amount to clean up head surface, timing components are new. I installed the timing set with everything at TDC, lined up the bright links with timing marks using the #1 setting, the timing notch lined up perfect with the cam plate. Now for the question. No matter what adjustment I make to the tension side guide, I cannot get the tensioner to pop out any less then 3/16". According to the manual tensioner should sit flush against tensioner housing. Is this due to the deck and head being shaved? and is this acceptable?

Thanks for the compliments:classic:

I created a website for my Z obession, check it out. http://home.comcast.net/~thcastro