Chickenman

The 22162-NPN is the question mark. Local dealers usually used that Suffix to indicate " No Part Number " for when they sold Non-Nissan parts. I was a Nissan Dealership Partsman from 1975 to 1992 and knew most of the local Parts guys in the 1980's. Which dealership did you buy it from? The early 1980's is when we started to see a some local aftermarket Parts vendors bringing parts in from Japan, Taiwan and Thailand. They were marketed quite aggressively.... Best bet would be to take the dizzy cap down to West Coast Nissan in MapleRidge. Talk to the Parts Manager Glen Goodwin. Glen is a huge Datsun enthusiast and really digs into the old time stuff. If any one can confirm the originality he can. Edit: Tell him Richard Boyk sent you Frankly, I have my doubts if it's Factory Datsun. The 22162-NPN is a Red Flag as is the Part stamping " 4659-2700 " . I don't ever recall seeing numbers like that on Factory caps. Edit: Looks like it could be an OEM Hitachi replacement... but not necessarily a " Factory OEM Nissan " cap as Zed Head mentioned. https://partsdb.info/autopart/beru/vk288 It might be worth hanging on to though. The color is correct and aluminium terminals were what the later style factory replacement caps came with. Both OEM replacement and aftermarket would have had aluminium contacts in the 1980's. So could be either.

I have 16 x 7 Konig Rewind's on my car with Zero offset and 225/50x16 Conti Extreme DW's. The steering is a bit too heavy with the 225's.. 205/55x16's will fir perfect with that size rim ( 16 x 7 ) and will be a bit easier to steer. Easier to fit than 225's x 16's if car is lowered as well. 2003 was a long time ago. There are ton of wheels for these cars in 16" and 17" now. Original bolt pattern is 4 x 4.5" ( 114.3mm ) as noted.

Thanks. That's the rates I was thinking of trying.

^ I almost wish I had chosen 205/50x16's. The 225's are pretty heavy steering. Figured I'd have to run about -2.5 degrees camber up front to fit the 225's. What spring rates did you end up with on your CO's? I'm thinking 225 to 250 lb/in up front and around 200 or 225 lb/in rear as a starting point. Will likely use Koni 8610 shocks. or the MR2/Golf Sport shocks.

Body kit was put on by PO. I don't really like the side skirts and rear valance. They will likely be coming off this Winter. I much prefer the clean lower body curves of the original design. Will keep front Air Dam. Rear spoiler may or may not go... or may be changed out for a BRE style. Haven't decided yet.

Thanks Guy. I have a friend who is a Race Car fabricator with a fully equipped Machine and Welding shop. Good to have friends like that!! If I do decide to go with coil-overs it will be a custom made set using new thick wall tubing, threaded collars, spring hats etc from PitStopUSA or another supplier. We can build our own Custom coil-overs pretty inexpensively and exactly the way we want. We could even make our own Camber plates, but I may just buy the Techno Toy ones. I've had fully ride height adjustable cars as Daily Drivers before. Not a big deal for me. It's all about selecting reasonable spring rates and shock combo's. I'm not overly fond of the Eibach progressive springs. Especially up front. Linear rates are so much easier to dial in. I usually use Hypercoil springs on my cars, as they are excellent quality, reasonable price and have a huge selection that is always in stock at my suppliers. On the other hand I may just decide to leave it alone. I'm not going to Race it or Track Day it. Car rides pretty decent on the street right now, but a bit too soft of a spring rate up front. It's those danged progressive rate springs. Feels a bit " Lazy " and rolls more than it should up front. I do have big MSA sway bars front and rear.

My 1976 280Z with Konig Rewind 16 x7's in Gunmetal. Zero offset. Tires are Conti 225/50x16's. Currently on Eibachs but car needs to be about an inch lower. Winter project will be coil overs and Camber plates.

Guy: That brings back memories of 1971 240Z . Original color was the same as yours, but I painted it a Pearl Yellow in later years. Color really popped!! Luv the stance on your car. Mine needs to come down a bit. I'm running 225/50x16 Conti Extreme DW's on Konig Rewind 16 x7's . Zero offset. Nice to see that a 225 will fit that low. Yes it is a tough tires to fit. Guess I'll have to go Coil overs and Camber plates this winter. I'll see if I can find some shots of my 71 240z somewhere. Might be on slides!! That car handled like a slot car. Full Nissan Comp suspension with Factory Race struts ( Uber rare ), Factory Race springs and Nissan Comp 22mm front bar and 23 mm rear bar. I Auto-crossed it in a Mod class with Goodyear 21x 8 slicks and 3.9 gears. Car was a rocket.... and I swear you had to step UP when you got out of the car. It was that low on the 13's. Man I wish I still had that car....

Randalla: Are you planning on making any 280Z trim reproductions?

Well.. I did a quick check last night, and found that the PO had the pickup coil phasing completely out of whack. Had the adjustment slot bottomed out the wrong way so that the Timing was actually retarded when warming up. Will have to re-adjust things and reset Timing. As it's the " Retarded " pickup that has the adjustment on it, and that is what the car runs on when at operating Temp, it will require two adjustments to set the Ignition Timing correctly. First adjust the phase split, then reset static timing with engine warm ( or thermal time switch disconnected ). Why Nissan didn't make the advanced PU the adjustable one I don't know. Then your base timing at operating Temp wouldn't be changed when you adjust the phase split. Oh well.... I'm going to use a white Paint Pen to mark the relationship of the reluctor Teeth to the Retarded pickup. Then I can change the Phase split, and then line up the marks on the Retarded ( Primary ) PU coil again. Should get me in the Ballpark for initial timing. Then do fine tuning with T/Light.

FYI: A good way to clean the inside of scuzzy W/Washer Tanks and Coolant Tanks is to use Easy Off Foaming oven cleaner. Spray it on the inside, let it do it's magic and then flush it out with hot water. Be sure to use gloves and eye protection. You can use it on the outside as well. Makes an old tank look almost like new.

^^ Link doesn't work. Is this the one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTSCH-DT-KIT-1-WITH-CRIMP-TOOL-BLACK-2-3-4-POS-/330898756536?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0b1a53b8&vxp=mtr

Original application is for 1973 - 1990 Isuzu's and Honda's, but they also fit just about any Datsun that has this style of pump. Not only Z cars, but 510's,1200's, PU Trucks etc. Trico number ( 11-601 ) is still readily available, and you can cross reference to other manufacturers such as Anco and AC Delco. AC Delco number is 86719. And of course Rock Auto has them in stock.

This has been covered before in the archives, but I thought I'd post a subject title that will show up easily on searches. If you are looking for an OEM replacement pump for the W/Washer pump that fits perfectly on Z cars, order a Trico 11-601. These fit absolutely perfect in the rubber grommet. Later models may have to change out the connectors but that's no big deal.

Just redid the AC connectors on my Z-car with Deutsch. The 37 year old OEM pins kept coming loose from the connectors. Now my AC doesn't mysteriously shut off when I go over bumps in the road...

Yes I use the solid pin connectors. The cheap E-Bay crimpers are more than sufficient for DIY Automotive use. They are a 4 crimp style. Here's one link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Way-Indent-Crimp-Tool-AWG-20-26-Harley-Deutsch-D-Sub-Caterpillar-RS232-/271839762969?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4ae99a19 The expensive $200 to $300 crimpers are for Military and Aerospace specs. They have 8 crimps and fancy adjustments. I use my $30 crimper and just move the pin down a bit after the first squeeze. Voila 8 crimps.

Before you purchase AMP or WeatherPack terminals check out Deutsch Terminals.The big advantage to Deutsch Terminals is the ease of dis-assembly. They are also more compact than AMP/WeatherPack connectors. They are used extensively in Industrial equipment, Marine and are very popular on Race cars. Their main advantage over AMP connectors is ease of assembly and especially dis-assembly. All connectors pull out from the back side of the connectors and can literally be disassembled with a small hooked piece if wire. The crimpers can be bought on E-Bay for as little as $28. They come in various ratings to handle different amperage. I use the DT series ( 13 amps per pin ) for just about everything, although you can go up to the DTP series for high amp draws ( 25 amps per pin ). Pico is a main distributor and any Napa or Autozone should be able to get them. Summit, Jegs and places like WireCare.com also stock them. My local Mum and Pop Auto store stocks them now. Bikers love them. Once you use Deutsch connectors, you will never go back to AMP or WeatherPack. Some links: https://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors.asp?type=industrial&series=dt&contacts=2 http://www.picowiring.com/pdf/Cat-30.pdf

Yep....agree 100%. Windex sucks big time. For ANY window cleaning. Leaves a lot of streaks and hazing. Invisible Glass or GM Glass cleaner work very well. So does " Glass Plus"...if you can find it. Stay away from Blue shop towels. Something in them leaves a haze. Cheap plain Paper Towels work just dandy. If you drive in the rain and still have fogging problems, Rain-Ex Antifog works really well. Windshield should be cleaned first with a good glass cleaner as mentioned above.

Yes..that's the thingy I was calling a Ported Vacuum Switch. I'll find it's " Hot " feed somewhere.

I have a Federal Dizzy with dual pickups on my 1976 280Z. On cold start-up the advanced pickup is actuated and specs call for an additional 6 degrees of advance over fully warm specs. I have a fairly big cam in the car and wonder if any one has experimented with increasing the " Phase " split on cars with big cams? The car is pretty snarky when cold even with the static advance bumped to 12 degrees BTDC. First thing to do is to actually check if the advanced pick up really is set to +6 degrees additional advance. I know someone has messed with the dizzy before. If that checks out I'm going to bump the " advanced " ( cold running ) pickup to +10 degrees of advance and see if the engine responds. I know engines with big overlap like lots of advance down low. Having the dual pickup design should give me some tuning capability for cold warm up. I'll report back with results.

That just gave me a thought. I don't have the Ported Vacuum switch installed ( Federal Dizzy 1976 280Z) . That should have +12V with ignition and I believe that it is ground switched.

Thanks. The switch off at 10 mph renders that wire useless for my purposes. I'll dig around and find another source.

Simple question. Is the Yellow wire that goes to the BCDD a switched +12V connection. Don't have a BCDD any more, but I may want to use that connection for something else if it is Ignition On +12v. TIA.

That's the method I used to wire my Rally 510. Disconnect the factory HL terminals from the back of the H/Lamps and use the feed off of those to drive the new Bosch style relays. Run new universal HL wiring connectors from the Relays to the Head lamps. The relays can be wired to work with Positive switching or Negative switching. Use two relays. One for High Beams and one for Low beams. Put a 15 - 20 amp ATO Fuse, or a Circuit breaker, in the +12v line to the relays if you're worried about having the hot side connected all of the time. Always a good idea with relays.

Taller springs are your answer. I don't see where your spring height is length is listed, but assuming 10" free length just buy some 12" springs and adjust the collars down. You can also get spacers for putting under the spring seats. These are standard 2.5" ID coil over springs correct? I'd juts go to a Circle Track supplier such as http://pitstopusa.com/ and make a selection from their HUGE inventory of springs. Pitstop USA carries all popular brands including Eibach, Hypercoil, Swift, Afco and others. And they're probably going to be a lot cheaper than buying from GC. Here is their link to Coil Over springs: http://pitstopusa.com/c-131948-chassis-suspension-springs-coil-over-springs.html You can shop by size or by brand. Pitstop USA offers 2.5" ID coil over springs in 9", 10" 12", 14" and 16" free lengths. You should be able to find something that fits. Edit: I've personally used Hypercoils for years and they are excellent. Readily available as well, in about any rate and length.