gwri8

Welcome! There are a few Florida guys here on the Forum.

Do remember that Cliff got a BUNCH of Fireball for the Holidays. Surely he hasn't finished it yet........well, maybe.......

I learn something new almost every day, but then I forget also..... verb (furs, furring, furred) [with object] 1 (as adjective, often in combination furred) covered with or made from a particular type of fur: silky-furred lemurs. 2 British coat or clog with a deposit: the stuff that furs up coronary arteries. 3 fix strips of wood to (floor joists, wall studs, etc.) in order to level them or increase their depth.

I believe Cliff has some Lube for that, right Cliff?

Well, mine was shaved. Does that count?

Marks new Icon picture........

For Wire reference just to double check to make sure they were correct to begin with. Photo courtesy of the famous Blue, now known as 240260280 here. His often referred to web page here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

Well, It's not exactly blank. It just says L28.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think 280's had matching #'s with engine blocks and chassis, thus the blank on the engine bay plate. Mine is blank also. 240's did and I'm not sure 260's did.

Her you go Dave..In all fairness, I saw a complete one on Ebay also. No cracks in the accordion and the clamp on this works fine, but it's not the prettiest.

I've gotta step out for a little bit, then I can upload some pics. After glancing at it, it is missing the connecting L bracket that attaches to the front apron but in overall good shape. Easily fixed.

I've got one from a 77' parts car. I Think it's in fair shape. I'll clean it a little and take a pic If you Like.

I think, and I'm sure many will back me up here, that if you bought an old sports car to work on, you have actually bought Pandora's box in disguise. Just don't get discouraged and Enjoy it!

Nice find! There's lot's of folks here that like to help so you've come to the right forum. Like mentioned before, we (I) love pictures. Cars this old probably had so much shoddy PO work like mine that photos can give valuable hints on what was altered. So, Welcome to your new disease!

HIs are leather, mine are not. I don't think wetting would make a diffeerence on the fake leather, but Mr. Sun on a hot day sure does...........

I got the faux leather from Interior Innovations about three years ago. They were tight. I found that Summer is the best time to do seat covers, just for the heat factor. Good Job!

Welcome to a fellow Southerner! Years and years of experience represented on this forum, all at your fingertips. Mine started out as a father/son project but now it's all Daddy's car! As to which year/model Z is the best, the only right answer is the one your driving (or on jack stands in the garage...) . Be sure to download the FSM for your Z here. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Here's a shot of my stock 77' engine for a comparison. Mine does not have the check valve (dohickie) that yours does. If I recall correctly, the FSM calls for one there? This page shows it attaching to the Thermal Vac Valve.

Well, It wasn't me!

I did the Dyna Mat and carpet in my 77". I think you're right about hearing the engine and even though I also have 2.5' exhaust with a magna flow the reasons were that I wanted to be more selective in the noises that I hear. More often than not my stereo is not even turned on but I don't care to hear road pebbles bouncing off the undercarriage. Like mentioned above, mine is not a track car either. As far as weight reduction, like granny knot said, it's all about power to weight ratio. Dyna Mat in the interior will only add about 15 lbs. If I were really serious about the ratio, I would lose 20 or 30 lbs off my butt., like that is going to happen....

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I did my dash a couple of years ago with the SEM Bumper repair product and now It's cracked again where the filler is, albeit smaller cracks than the original gaping ones, so not as obvious. I'm interested in the Polyvance products to re-do the dash, But has anyone noticed that on Amazon the shipping cost is the same as the Filler Prep product cost? $13.95 shipping for a 13.95 small can and all of a sudden it's almost $30. I've been gouged before but that one kind of stings a bit.

That's a hard area to photograph with the engine in place. Here are a couple of overheads of mine. The brackets do not mount to the booster, they mount to the fender well below and above the master cylinder.

Welcome! I'm not a whole lot far from you. Maybe an hour or so.... Mine is a 77' with EFI so I'm not really a carb guy, but I've done a couple of fuel tanks and like everyone here, quite familiar with our friend Mr. Rust. How long did the car sit? and where did it sit, inside or outside? It is not uncommon at all for the tank to have rust an crud in it after sitting for extended periods (or decades). Fuel pumps, fuel lines and carbs can also suffer as well as everything else. In all likely hood, you will probably end up dropping the tank to at least clean and visually inspect the inside. I think that would be a good place to start, then work your way up the fuel lines to check for any corrosion/ blockage there. That will lead to the fuel pumps, filters and hoses and then of course the Carbs. It sounds like a lot but it's really not and will give you piece of mind and knowledge of your complete fuel system. IMO, it's all going to have to be done sooner or later. The people on this forum are a very deep well of Z knowledge, both historically and mechanically. Somebody will have an answer to whatever you're going to have a question on. You've come to the right place.

If and when you get to the front seal, It's not a horrible job, just time consuming. Pulling the Rad is not too tough, but I've never liked removing the fan. Fat fingers in narrow places don't end up very pretty in my case.