Johnny wick

I will need to take the car back to a more specialized shop so they can verify the AC Installation!

when you mean break it up do you mean sanding it until you peel all the black paint leaving it on bare metal or to even the scratches on the paint?

I paid someone around US$800 for the installation. But the AC is not blowing enough air! Still working on the rough idle and stalling issue which only happens when the engine is hot and which could be causing fuel percolation at the float bowls of the carbs. This guy has the same problem i have in his 1973 240z and addresses the solution perfectly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW_8LggHv8A

1. THe brake booster has some scratches on the paint. Do i need to sand all the paint and primer it back with semi gloss black paint with primer or Should i just sanded with 600 sandpaper where it is scratch and paint it only Which is the exact black color for this Master Vac? Anyone??

Just finished installing a Vintage Air Gen II mini Kit and a Sanden Compressor 508 model. I manage to actívate the system with the rotary fan control and disabled the horizontal controls once removing the heater box and stock blower. However, i still think this system lacks blowing power as it does not blow enough cool air compared to ac systems of modern nowadays car. Is there a way i can solve this? should i consider the Honda Blower Upgrade to add this up to the vintage air gen II mini kit? Anyone?

I am about to swap my stock Master Vac Brake booster and Master Cylinder with a refurbished one provided by ZedSaver friends in Canada and have the following questions: 1. THe brake booster has some scratches on the paint. Do i need to sand all the paint and primer it back with semi gloss black paint with primer or Should i just sanded with 600 sandpaper where it is scratch and paint it only Which is the exact black color for this Master Vac? 2. Sincé i am replacing also the Master cylinder with a OEM Nissan Master Cylinder and i will need to bleed the brakes, what brake fluid is recommended and should i also consider changing any other parts now that i am there in example: rear brake shoes, drum brake springs hardware kit, rear Wheel brake cylinder or any other parts related? 3. I want to be able to stop the car with the Emergency Brake. This is not happening. The car does lock the brakes but if your booster fails as a security you should also be able to stop it with the EBRAKE at high speed. Am about to start the swap and will need your opinión if these parts or others should be replaced. I dont see any leaking anyway.

Tail of the transmission? Symptom: clunk noise after releasing the gas pedal. There is even a back and forth shaking if you accelerate hard and suddenly drop the gas pedal. Any clue???

I just ordered a NIssan OEM differential mount part number 55415-N4301 for my 1972 240z made in Jan 1972: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1978-Nissan-240Z-260Z-280Z-Rear-Differential-Mount-Insulator-OEM-NEW-/191579574506 Should i still order something else while i am at fixing the clunk? The car will be lifted and i want to eliminate all possible causes

He says the differential mount and the u-joints! Do you recommend OEM Nissan? If so please point out where to order! This clunk at first gear is driving me nuts!

Mechanic says the clunk is produced here at the half shaft joint. My car has a 280z 5 speed manual transmission. Sincé we are here i would like to know which type of differential mount shall i order and which half shaft? Apparently there is some play here!

Do they need to be OEM Nissan or are they aftermarket?

who sells this solid mounts for a 1972 240z?

I have the same problem on my 1972 240z. Same clunk noise after releasing the gas pedal. There is even a back and forth shaking if you accelerate hard and suddenly drop the gas pedal. Do you recommend buying a OEM Nissan Differential mount? What else should be swapped?

I also received a similiar opinión as yours. I do hear a distinct "clunk" when releasing the gas pedal at first gear under 2000 RPM. The back and forth shaking is not present if a delicately step on the gas and lift the pedal softly but you normally dont drive like that. Another user has commented that i should replace the transmission mount as the clunk is Heard and felt from behind. Do you agree???? ANyone??

Just purchased this Pertronix Ignition Coil model 40011 which is rated 1.5 ohms and was wondering if it is connected correctly to the ballast resistor and to the eléctrical system. I am also concerned if i am missing any washer or plate which is fastened to the ballast resistor as i want to have a secure and long lasting coil. Do i need to add any additional protection?

WHere can i get one of these stainless Steel heat shields for my 1972 240z with stock rounded SU CARBS? This is the one i have in my car and its producing vapor lock or percolation as the manifold transfers too much heat to the carbs. Idle becomes rough in traffic and car tends to stall. Maybe i can get a quote from any of you?

Just checked out this video: This guy addresses my problem as fuel percolation and he is building a heat shield: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW_8LggHv8A Questions: Isnt the Factory heat shield that my car came with enough? I also noticed my Pertronix 40511 coil is getting as hot as hell. You arent able to hold it in your hand for more than 1 second. My car idle becomes rough when the coil gets as described. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6wGuYBiRLw ANyone?? COmmon sense???

I do feel the brake pedal spongy!! It does brake. I will test it plugging the manifold!

If i disconnect the booster from the manifold and a plug it I wont be able to stop the car when driving??

How can i confirm i have an internal vacuum leak of the brake booster? Mechanic connected it to a manual gauge and determined it had a problem! any other way of testing it?

Which is the Cardone part number for the 6 inches Master Vac Brake Booster?? OEM Part is no longer available!! Mine was manufactured by a company called BENDIX and has a red label. My 240z was made in January 1972.

I am about to order a Pertronix coil model 40511 which is 3.0 ohms to be used with a Pertronix 1761 ignitor module installed in my distributor. I was wondering if it was better to go for the 1.5 ohms versión and connect it to the stock ballast resistor as it would protect the coil from overheating? Any recommendations on this.

http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/brake_booster/nissan/240z.html I´ll check on this!! Which is the Cardone part number for the 6 inches Master Vac Brake Booster?? OEM Part is no longer available!!

Zed Head, Thanks for your advice, i think you nail it!! I tested the car with a mechanic and after performing all kinds of test we reached to the conclusión that the Brake Booster has an internal leak as the car idle becomes erratic and rough when you step on the brake pedal. Added to this the Petronix 40511 3 ohm coil was getting too hot. So hot you could not even touch it with your hands for more than 2 seconds. I had a spare one at the deposit so we replace it. However it does not get cool enough as to hold it with your full hands for more than 3 seconds. Questions: SHould i replace the Brake booster and where do i get one OEM Nissan Booster? Can i settle for CARDONE Reman?? Should i get a Brand new pertronix 3.0 0hms coil or should i strive for a different Brand? I guess ill need to stick with this Brand as the ignitor module is the compatible one for this coil.

Will need to check on this!