Mark Maras

Nice. If the pistons or the intake throat were marked in 1/8" increments, one could accurately determine the the needle stage at any RPM under a load.

Another one of those old SU articles talked about removing the dampers (screw top with the jiggly bits), inserting rods (pencils?) with 1/8" graduations into the piston stems, starting the engine and monitor the height of the pistons at any given RPM. The part that confuses me is, will the pistons go higher than normal with no dampener. The article didn't mention it but t seems like it would due to the fact that different wt. oils will change the mixture over the entire throttle range. A possible way around this, IMO, would be to mark the side of the piston that is visible with 1/8" graduated lines (Sharpie pen) and watch the piston as it moves up through the RPM range. The article also mentioned that if the rods are equal length, the carbs are balanced when the part of the rods are equal ht. Makes sense.

One of those old SU articles said that if you're going richer in any stage, .001-.002 is the amount to remove. When leaning out a stage, they said .001 increments are best. More danger in harming the engine with a lean condition. They also recommended not changing the idle stage because if you richen or lean the idle stage, it will do the same to the entire range. I understand the wisdom in modding needles in small increments but I can't figure out why changing the idle stage would affect everything else. It must be true, it was printed in an old book and not the internet.

Roy Moore would be happy if he could take this country back to 1917, and would do it any way he can. He would have fit right in back then. Poor misunderstood boy, he was just born too late.

Thank's Geoff. I'd hazard a guess that Geoff has SM's. As I recall the SM'x did run a bit richer and those are the needles that ZTherapy supplies.

@rossiz Geoff, we need your input. Having done the conversion successfully, what needles are you running?

Dedicated to Cliff. If I had a hammer, I'd hammer in the morning. I'd hammer in the evening, all over this land,

I don't like over-lapping seams. They tend to rust out faster. I'd cut off the over-lap, clean it up and butt-weld the quarter panel seams. Best way to start out is find a small easy spot to replace and see how it goes.

Anyone remember GMC split rims? They liked to separate under pressure if they weren't seated properly.

The vert. defrost ran thru at least Aug of 71. I haven't seen the inside of an early hatch in years but as I recall there is ducting inside the hatch to prevent exhaust from entering the cabin. the clips that hold the ducts in place rust away and until a short time ago were not available. One of our members recently had a limited number of the clips manufactured and is currently doing another batch. You'll need the clips and ducts if you're going to try to modify a hatch. The exhaust will find it's way into the rear given ANY opportunity.

Book'im Danno!

I'd add a quick compression test along with the rad.

I agree. No body sag. Not that they would.

I considered a bad pump too but it was replaced. How about something far simpler. A bad, new thermostat. I'd try removing it and put it in boiling water to see if responds and at what temp.

I wonder if anyone has ever filled one with CLR and let it set for a few days? It works wonders on other metal parts.

i agree with Patcon. Time to flush the cooling system. Many members have reported large quantities of scale in the block when the expansion plugs have been removed. Hope yours cleans up with a good flush.

No over-flowing doesn't mean the float level is correct. No over flowing just means that the needle and seat aren't stuck open or fuel pressure isn't too high. The floats could be too low which could cause the white (not tan) plugs 2.75 turns down at normal driving. I still want to know if the fuel level is 1/16" or so below the top of the nozzle when it's 2 1/2 turns down. This tip for checking the float level at the nozzle isn't mine. It came from Bruce Palmer at ZTherapy.

There were many different ways of dealing with them. Most were left intact and plugged. On my 260 a PO had cut the tubes shorter, and left them in place and plugged. On yet another, the tubes had been pinched closed and plugged. Other's were just removed. Were the plugs in the manifold difficult to remove? Most of the time they're a PITA. Addressing the other problems. A vacuum leak will make an engine run lean normally causing a higher idle unless the mixture is already too lean. Looking at your plugs at 2.75 turns a v. leak could be a possibility. Could also be the floats are too low. But it seems to me that there are two (or more) separate problems going on here. One is the plugs loading up at idle. The second is the engine running lean at everything but idle. Just trying to clarify what's going on.

That confirms it. I'm assuming the next gen. flat top started in July

I'd dump them. IMO, the only reason to keep the tubes is originality, if that's a consideration.

Free play at the top of the pedal stroke can SEEM to be free play at the throw-out bearing but it can also be wear in the clevis and pin at the top of the pedal. Leaving the bearing engaged at all times. Do you have an adjustable clutch rod?

Cliff, do you have a little free play in the clutch release arm when the clutch is out? The clutch that went into the RX7 was an Excedy. No throw-out bearing noise. basically the same set-up as a Z.

That looks familiar. My son and I installed a new clutch in his 81 RX7. Interesting time removing the pilot bearing. Puller wouldn't grip the bearing. Ended up using bread, a socket and extension. I'll never buy another pilot bearing puller again.

I've never experienced shimming an old style round mount starter. Just the newer flat mount ones that Chevy uses. I agree with Cliff. Pull the starter inspect the flywheel teeth, check the starter and be sure that the starter solenoid is getting full voltage.

The starter grinding can be worn teeth on the starter or flywheel. Most common is a weak solenoid often caused by a voltage drop to it. You shouldn't have to turn the engine much (just a couple of degrees) to align the starter teeth with the flywheel. Throttle problem could be lack of return spring(s) (gas pedal and engine), or lack of lube. What did you mean when you said "it" wouldn't turn off? Starter? Engine?