Mark Maras

If the pistons were removed, is it possible that the o-rings (not an o at all) were installed backward? They are directional. The bevel is designed to allow the pad to pull back from the disc just enough to maintain pad to disc contact. The slight contact is to keep the discs dry in wet conditions.

Difficult to explain the selection process in any military. During WWII, Biak Island, S. Pacific, my Dad was a company clerk. No typing skills (at first) and a fifth grade education. He said it didn't matter, You just did the job given you, to the best of your ability.

My Scarab knowledge is sorely lacking. I was under the impression that the Scarab's all had 327 c.i. engines. At least that's what a friend told me. He has a beautiful red Z that he claims is a true Scarab, but the more I learn about them, it appears that his may be a pseudo Scarab. Were all the Scarab's built with the same components?

Try A.T.F. I ran it for twenty plus years and never found a reason to change.

Don't know if it still works but car owners used "clean up" their title in their Oregon car by changing the title to a Washington Car, then back into an Oregon car. The brand didn't follow the title back to Oregon.

The hesitation that you're describing is called WISDOM. Some (most) of us have bought a Z that required a lot more work than we thought it would, even after looking at it in person.

Wow! That is the coolest barbecue I've ever seen. We're talk'in whole hog barbecue in one of those.

Something to consider. I understand getting rid of the filler on the side and I'm not trying to rain on your parade but putting it behind the license plate reminds me of Ford Pintos and a few others from that era. The filler tube would get pushed into the tank in a rear end accident.

You might want to pop the top off a carb. and double check. I'm not an expert on the different needles (i always ran oem needles) but I saw a post on Zcardriver where someone got the M39 and M43's in a kit, tried them and couldn't get the engine running well until he changed them to needles that were designed for a six cylinder engine.

Which needles and nozzles are you using?

Post #160 you mentioned a Ztherapy kit that came with M43 and M39 needles. I believe those are needles for a four cyl. (1600?) engine. Are you using either one of those?

This is sounding like a near done deal thanks to Montezuma. You'll probably get "That Look" when you discuss it with your wife but that's OK as long as she agrees.

The kit to move the choke lever mounting point from the underside (now broken) of the console to the trans tunnel will fix the floppiness in your lever. Lube everything including the cables and nozzles. With the choke cables disconnected, grab the end of the linkage the cable connects to and move it back and forth, mimicking the action of the choke cables, The nozzles should lower and raise smoothly with no hesitation or difficulty. Let us know what you find.

When I had one stick, the cure was twisting that little flat bar linkage bit to align it better to the nozzle, The surface that the screw passes thru wasn't parallel with the mounting surface on the nozzle causing it to bind.

Agree with Ala KaZaam ^. Usually if one pulls the rubber boot from the end of the slave and master cylinder, Brake fluid will be seen in the one with a leak. That said, in my experience, the cylinders are usually the same ancient age and if one is bad, the other is soon to fail. I always replace them both at the same time.

Are the fuel nozzles both in the up (un-choked) position? Occasionally, that metal linkage bit from the cable to the nozzle can get a bit of a twist in it and prevent the nozzle from sliding up when the choke is off.

Maybe it could be explained as a "Welcome Home" gift. Assuming she doesn't have her name on a Z title, this could be her golden opportunity. What a surprise!

I'm not sure if Grose Jets are still available. They were an improved (better mouse trap) needle and seat valve. I suspect they were more effective at shutting fuel flow off at higher than normal pressure which is 3 - 3 1/2 psi. I've never experienced a problem with the oem needles and seats.

Be sure to let us know what the float levels are currently set at when you get the new pieces installed. Useful information for us die-hard SU freaks.

I don't know which side would be the most effective. Logically (this has failed me in the past) it seems to me that the reflective side would face the heat source but I would rely on the info and or instructions that came with the shielding product. Let us know which direction you install it and any change that you notice. I still have doubts about the two piece heat shield. It seems like it would be more effective if was one piece. You could bridge that gap with a third piece attached with speed nuts and screws.

What was plugging? the bowl to jet fuel line? I can't imagine what it could have been. I thought the lines were new?

I remember it being referred as a castle nut too. Interesting that Z Car Depot sells the newer style wheel bearing nuts that use a castle washer and a plain nut for all years.

I haven't heard of a replacement, maybe a product like Plasti Dip would be suitable.

Walmart? Made in USA? Two things I never thought I'd see together. BTW, the tires look good. Let us know how they handle, rain and shine.

Two tips. Remove the strut bracket and heat the panel with a hair dryer to make it more flexible.