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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. I'm thinking that there's a couple of problems. 1st, if the engine won't pull a load but rev's freely when not under a load the problem is usually lack of fuel. There can be many causes. A fuel pressure and volume test is first. That should rule out everything up to the carbs. Check the filters in the banjo fittings above the float lids if you haven't already. Even with a poor fuel flow the engine should idle smoothly. Recheck the float levels, be sure the nozzles slide up and down easily when operating the choke and run thru the carb balancing-tuning procedure again. What color are the plugs?
  2. Mark Maras posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    IMHO, A weak spot just off idle is the nature of the beast unless it's so weak that it's a PITA.
  3. Does the engine rev freely when not under a load?
  4. When the problem starts, does the engine rev fine if it's not under a load? As in neutral or clutch in? Does operating the choke (plus or minus) make any difference?
  5. Presumably you're using the choke when you start it. Does changing the choke setting, (plus or minus) have any affect when it starts to run lousy? Did any of the repairs, especially the carb rebuilds, make ANY difference, good or bad? What color are the plugs?
  6. I was thinking about using Versimold to fill the voids that remain when using the squished heater hose.
  7. Mark Maras posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Welcome. You've got a good start. Many of us didn't have the luxury of driving our Z home. We felt fortunate if it would roll. Starting the engine came much later. You'll have a lot of questions. You've come to the right place for answers.
  8. Silicone rubber. Versimold is heat set. Sugru is air? dry. They're both about the consistency of clay. I don't know the hardness of either one but Versimold is the most economical of the two. Has anyone tried the pourable Flex- Seal?
  9. Curious about something? In the video, when you rev the engine, was that an intentional slow rev? In other words, does the engine respond instantly when you give it throttle?
  10. Any service manual or Phil's "Quick and Dirty SU Tuning" will show the screw. It's pretty easy to find by studying the linkage.
  11. Mark Maras posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Welcome, Tell us about your project.
  12. Pringle's Chips fall into that category too.
  13. IMO, it's better to experiment with different wt. oils in each carb to achieve equality than reducing the oil level. Post #5 you mention using 30 wt. oil. I believe the F.S.M. calls for 20 wt. I use ATF. The red color makes it a little easier to see. The tops with the plunger rods should be snug.
  14. As I recall, @Captain Obvious is one of the dash light LED guru's.
  15. I already have it's twin, in yellow and yet another in orange.
  16. Sounds normal.
  17. Yeah but at least it's fine British engineered tape!
  18. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooo
  19. Curious. What wt. oil are you using in the carbs? Neither too rich or too lean is good for the engine. Keep going richer with the screws until you get the light tan color on the plugs. I doubt that a little light gray stuff on the plugs will hurt anything although new are always best. When starting out from a stop sign, are you sure the mixture is lean? You can check to be sure by adding a little choke during acceleration. If it is lean, you'll feel the additional power as you add a little choke.
  20. Mark Maras posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Oh. how I wish there were Z's around when I was sixteen. I would have had one at any price. After thinking about it tho, at that age and always loving speed (mph) it was probably a good thing that I started with drag racing. I undoubtedly would have crashed AT LEAST one Z. While I'm reminiscing, @jchoi have you considered driving school? Not the ordinary kind. Most sports car racing organizations and tracks offer driving schools, classroom and on track experience. Probably the most fun and the best money I ever spent on my Z.
  21. No opinion on the filters. I thought you were going to cut the pressure back to 3.5 psi. 4 psi is still on the high side.
  22. Mark Maras posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    For what it's worth, I've been rear ended in a Z. Bad enough to wrinkle the floor in the rear. Surprisingly, or maybe not, the tank was undamaged. As I recall the biggest problem with fuel tanks back then was the location of the fill pipe. Auto makers started to put them in the center of the rear panel right around the bumper height. In a rear end accident, the fill pipe was being pushed into the tank rupturing it. AS soon as they moved the fill pipe back to the quarter panel, the vast majority of tank rupture fires stopped. BTW I like the fuel cell. Glad to hear you're going to do more work on it.
  23. Yes. 4.5 is pushing it and may be over the limit. New needles and seats in the float bowls MAY be able to handle the extra pressure for a while but sooner or later you'll end up with excess fuel in the float bowl causing a rich mixture (sooty plugs) and possibly overflowing float bowls (engine compartment fire). Anywhere from 3 - 3 1/2 psi will work fine.
  24. Mark Maras posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    @jchoi What year is your 240? I have some usable wiring harnesses from a late 71.
  25. I was thinking the same thing. Might be time to start working on an all electric Z (My God, I can't believe I uttered those words). France is banning gasoline cars in 2040. Will Eastern Canada follow? The good news is, you could grill burgers on the charger.
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