Mark Maras

@jalexquijano When the choke knob is pushed into the off position are the nozzles pushed all the way up? Use a mirror to check them.

I always adjusted my choke cables to end up with a little slack before they pulled the nozzles. My reasoning was I wanted that extra bit of slack to push the nozzles all the way up even if the choke knob wouldn't go all the way to the off position. That did prevent the cables from pulling the nozzles all the way to the bottom but even here in the NW I rarely needed full choke in the winter.

Dry ice may do the trick. Freeze it and chip it off.

So, hooning is similar to "Hold my beer"?

Snake oil for valve trains. I've tried a few in the past and been disappointed with the results but a mild cam seal leak and a severe rack and pinion leak on our 97 Outback (spare car) made me dig deeper. After watching many snake oil reviews I decided to try AT 205. This stuff is amazing. Project Farm confirmed this on YouTube. I added the recommended amount to the power steering and engine oil. Although the car gets driven less than a thousand miles a year, it's been almost 2 years and I have not had to top up either reservoir. I haven't tried it on old rubber grommets and bushings but it may revive those too. The only negative reviews I found were from some Toyota owners stating that it removed the paint in the oil pans causing a blockage in the oil pick-up screen

If the smoke dissipates quickly it's most likely coolant. If it hangs in the air for a while it's oil smoke.

I bought a Worx pressure washer a few years ago. 1800 p.s.i., 1.5 g.p.m., 115v. It's a good unit.

The old rod will work fine if it's the same length as the new one. If you haven't removed the clevis pin yet, try turning it 180 degrees and wiggle the pedal.

You may have #1 at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke. Try rotating the crankshaft 360 degrees. The cam lobes will both be up at the end of the compression stroke and the rotor location should be better. Plug wires, 153624.

I don't remember the model. It was probably built in the 40s. It didn't roll, it went down an embankment backward, bucket up, dug in, and flipped on its backside, like an upside-down turtle, which explains my fear of the nose lifting on my Z. Turn one at Portland International Raceway. 120+, the steering is best described as turning the wheel and wondering how long it will take to turn. That was fun learning to steer with the throttle.

The wipers may lift at high speeds but at least they're slow too.

Years ago I had my bone stock 240 on a few race tracks. The rise and fall of the front end during acceleration and braking was annoying, but the rise at 120 mph + was frightening until I was confident the car wouldn't blow over backward. Part of that fright was PTSD from a previous experience in an Euclid dump truck that went down a collapsed bank in reverse and ended up on its top.

Find a ground. Either a wire or the switch body. The black ohm meter probe goes to the ground, The red probe goes to the left rear blinker soldered connection as shown in post #5, and then operate the switch. Repeat the test with the red probe to the left rear blinker spade connector in the plug.

I've never had a good look at that seam but I vaguely remember Matsuo-San talking about the welded seam options. Butt or flush lap seams would be too stiff so they opted to bend both sides 90 degrees (or possibly a standing seam joint) to join the two parts. @Patcon Charles, do you remember that part of the conversation?

If the switch is installed, use a DC volt meter to see if the power to the individual wires switches on and off when operating the switch. If the switch is disconnected use an ohm meter.

I don't recall if we (Charles and I, G-Nose Z may have been there too) were looking at a specific car at the time. Matsuo-San was at the Atlanta Z-Con because he was the guest of honor. The words were from Matsuo-San and we were specifically discussing the C-pillar joint. We did discuss body flex and twist. I don't recall him saying that it did pop out during testing but considering what these cars were going to go through during rallies, a large semi-rigid C-pillar joint made more sense than a stiff or semi-rigid A-pillar.

I don't recall if we (Charles and I, G-Nose Z may have been there too) were looking at a specific car at the time. Matsuo-San was at the Atlanta Z-Con because he was the guest of honor. The words were from Matsuo-San and we were specifically discussing the C-pillar joint. We did discuss body flex and twist. I don't recall him saying that it did pop out during testing but considering what these cars were going to go through during rallies, a large semi-rigid C-pillar joint made more sense than a stiff or semi-rigid A-pillar.

I'd test it before prying those tabs back and opening it up. I broke a tab on mine.

At the Atlanta Z-CON, Charles and I talked with Matsuo-San when that question came up. As I recall he said that joint was intended to flex. The consequence of a stiff C-pillar was the A-pillar flexing instead with the possibility of a windshield popping out. @Patcon What do you remember of this conversation?

"It sounds like the drive shaft is gonna come up through the floor" is no exaggeration if the nose of the diff. is lifting and falling. With the help of a friend inside the car, position yourself so you can see the front of the diff. A mirror may help. Pull the parking brake on, start the engine, put the trans in first gear, and SLOWLY release and slip the clutch. Look at the diff. nose to see how much vertical movement there is.

I agree. In the beginning, this problem looked to me like it was a distributor cap, rotor, wire, or spark plug because it was only fouling one plug. It was either that or an internal problem. Countless plugs, new wires, cap, and rotor haven't made much difference but just to put my mind at ease, swap a plug wire with #4 and see what happens. Be sure all the wire connections are on all the way and secure. My son's Subaru had a plug wire that kept backing off the plug. He cured it by lubing the inside of the boot with dielectric grease. The boot slid all the way on the plug with grease.

Out of principle. The improvements? may have started with the automatic choke or possibly starter solenoids. Caveat, I drove a 39 Chev pickup for a few years.

I don't foresee any major problems. I'd also want to strip the vehicle of all the extraneous B.S. they've added to newer cars in the name of improvement.

I don't remember any access to the trim screws from the front. It was always a PITA to dig the mud out of the screw heads in the headlight bucket but I always had to go in from the backside.

Refresh my memory. What were the compression readings the last time you did a compression test? Was #4 lower than the others?