Mark Maras

Welcome Joey Yeah, The stories from admirers are always similar. I owned a Datsun (pick a model) once, best car I ever owned. Wish I hadn't sold it. Want to sell yours? As far as loving all things retro, Yes we love retro. In fact, many of us ARE retro.

Just 45 min. away from Geoff. I'll bet he's already on his way. Good eye, Jim.

I looked at ZHome but their pic of the car in 903 blue wasn't accurate. Kat's car looks like 903 should.

I totally understand the "aging out" syndrome. Physical projects take a little longer to accomplish, recovery time takes a lot longer. The really difficult projects, I call on my son, Alex. He's fun to work with. We tend to be competitive with each other and love nothing better than to see the other person screw up or take longer than he should. All in good fun and a great way for him to learn about Zs. He drives an 81 RX7. Hope your mechanic can get to it soon. I doubt it's anything more than wheel bearings.

IMO, Don't remove the float bowl from the carb. body unless it's leaking at that connection. I've never seen one leak there. Whether your needle and seat is new or not, it's not closing all the way. I had a new one do the same thing once. I took it apart, couldn't see anything wrong, cleaned it, reassembled it and it worked fine. Never did discover the source of the problem. To prevent the bowl gasket from "Pringling", sandwich it between sheets of wax paper and put it between two flat surfaces. I use two books.

Yeah, it's probably a wheel bearing. On the positive side, It gave up while it was home, not miles away and it's a cheap, easy repair. BTW, A LONG pin punch is useful for removing the outer races.

Did the clunking change when the brakes were applied?

IMO 903 was the darker of the two blues. 115 was more a silvery (metallic) blue. Patcon is right about samples. It's the only way to be sure before you spend big bucks on paint.

Thanks for sharing. One could pull the doors without re-aligning the hinges. Quick and easy.

Wow. Those are perfect. They should offer those with the leather kit.

Probably could have had a better outcome with better brakes but I'll bet the "big moment" started with high "speed", a whole lot of white knuckle understeer and one of those damned Saturday night power poles that jump into your way telling you to slow down. Except for that last one. The one that looks like it has a heavily loaded diaper hanging low on it's rear. Could it have that much rust that it's sagging under it's own weight? That's sad.

New to me to. Nice to add another source. Or is another voice?

^^^, more info on those would be appreciated.

Joedatsun Gorgeous, but it's not nice to post a single Z porn pic and not give us the centerfold too. We do want to see more. Please.

Hello and welcome to the club. A few months ago I bought a late 71 (series 2, same as the 72s) from a wrecking yard that was going to crush it. The body is actually a bit better than the 260 that I'm working on. Engine, trans, half shafts, and a few assorted goodies were already missing. Since then I have stripped the body of everything but the rear end and the suspension which are coming out soon. My intention is to cut the spot welds and take it apart and sell everything I don't need. (not much) A few members have gotten some of the parts already but there is a quite a pile left as you can imagine. I don't know how many pieces you'll be needing but I'll bet I have quite a few that you'll want. I have a COMPLETE dashboard (several cracks), heater box and ducts, COMPLETE wire harness end to end seats and more. We can use the club PM, email or phone, whatever you prefer. Talk to you soon Mark Maras

Engine porn. Beautiful!

All original is nice but I like an upgraded, (which could include stripped down), personalized Z as long as the changes are done well.

I'm in Portland just across the river. What did you find?

That's soooo tempting. Almost moved to Canada in the late 60s. (not to avoid the draft btw) I just love Canada and Canadians eh. The way things are going here in the land of "In Greed We Trust", I might want to leave soon and avoid the post election rush. Maybe I could even drive Westwood again. Fantastic track.

My ,still improving method, for re-bending a nice radius in the floor pans. I used a 1 7/8" hinge collar from a Bulldog Hinge. (Available at you local chain link fence co. They usually have old ones in their supplies) It is little more than a 1/8" x 2 1/2" piece of sheet metal bent into a U shape (1" ID radius) with long legs. They're very bend resistant. I cut about every 3", (as described by Patcon) flattened any mislocated bends 3" at a time, clamped the hinge collar to the inside of the floor pan in the proper location and rolled and beat the panel to conform to the collar using the clamp handle for leverage. It actually worked quite well but next time I'm going to heat the radius area first. The goal is to roll a radius into the floor pan 3" at a time without all the beating. Heat would make it a lot faster and safer than a BMFH.

Yet another consideration is a mig liner. They're available in many diameters. Last time I bought one it was about $1.00 per foot.

"Swirl Pot" is probably a brand name here in Portland.

Cliff, I think a drill motor would be an excellent method to determine straightness of the needle but when finished with this sanding procedure aren't you left with one carb running richer than the other or are you compensating with the nozzle adjustment? It seems to me that new needles would be the better answer.

Have you tried beermanpete's advice about swapping pots (and pistons) between carbs? You'll be able to tell which part is bent, Piston or pot. IMO I'd start looking for replacement part(s) ASAP. I doubt if it's worth the time and money to try to straighten it. Whatever "it" is.