inline6

Do you know about the special site: search? It limits searches to just that one site. If not, try to paste this into a google search: chrome door trim site:classiczcars.com

No-no, I said "My 12/70 (16530) is black. And my 6/71 is orange/yellow."

My VIN is HLS3016530. I will double check my memory. It has been a long time since I put eyes on that switch.

My 12/70 is black. And my 6/71 is orange/yellow. Still a wide range there.

I am thinking there are not many restoration shops that focus on Z's these days. Impatient Creations is doing good quality work. I think they are very expensive. But, they do good work. Looks like they are 30 minutes from Birmingham. https://impatientcreationsinc.com/

Some options to investigate: https://upgarageusa.com/pages/nos-parts-we-have-instock-for-1969-1995-z-cars https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-260z-front-bumper-guard-over-rider-strip-kit-69-72/ https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/front-bumper-over-rider-vertical-strip-set-for-datsun-240z I believe I have a spare set of aftermarket ones as well - I think of decent quality. Let me know if you would like to see some pics of them.

I am about to start on the task of adjusting the profile of my Hitachi SU needles (I have SM needles installed). I read this thread in preparation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59153-modified-su-carb-needles-for-l28/ @240260280 has detailed knowledge on the subject which is impressive! I wish I had the tools and knowledge to do what he knows should be done. Instead of measuring vacuum, etc. as referenced there, I am thinking about rigging up a camera to record a video of the piston movement under certain real world scenarios. For that recording, I am thinking of putting black marker lines on the piston that equate to the station positions on the needle. For the real world scenarios, I would like to record a series of various part throttle applications. I am hopeful that I can locate a specific range of the needle that will need to be modified. Very generally, I believe I have good AFRs at idle, and cruise (at 50 mph for example), and at wide open throttle. On the other hand, I have lean or very lean conditions at part throttle and during closed throttle deceleration (accompanied by popping in the exhaust). I will be making some more AFR reference runs before I attempt to modify the needles to confirm. But then, I am hoping to record the videos, and remove a miniscule amount of material from the "pick up" needle stations. The segment of the needle I need to modify should be confirmed by reviewing the video. Anyone have additional recommendations or thoughts?

Looks like I never finished this thread. I replaced the front yoke and took the propeller shaft to a local shop for balancing. It was there opinion that the shop that did the shortening of the prop shaft did not balance it. When I went to install the shaft into the transmission, the "slop" (the amount I could push the yoke radially) was a lot. As an estimate from looking, I'd say I could move the yoke in any direction about .020". So, that is about a mm of movement radially. It might have been a bit more than that. So, I decided to replace the bushing that is in the tail shaft of the transmission. Looking back on it, I think the bushing developed wear because of the driveshaft being out of balance for the first 500 or so miles I put on the car. I think that the bushing was sacrificial - meaning made of softer material than the yoke. Anyway, after putting the new bushing in (removal and reinstallation of the transmission was required), the new yoke was tight (no discernable movement at all radially). With everything back together, the vibration that caused me to start this thread is gone!

It is there for both of my cars - 12/70 and 6/71.

I was able to get everything back together on the car yesterday. The new yoke (with a new bushing in the back of the transmission) was a very snug fit. After double checking I torqued everything, I was able to take the car on a test drive. What a big difference! I got up to about 80 on some interstate and the severe vibration, which previously could be felt with a hand on the transmission tunnel, and seen in the blurring rear view mirror, was gone. Now, I can get back to the small list of things that I have to do to finish this car: install inside rear tail light trim panel install front right kick panel clean and glue in tool compartment liners repaint tail light trim panels (for better color match) install NOS glove box hinge/inside panel install rear hatch trim panel repair and install factory radio, or install guts of a new radio in the old radio case

Today, I was able to get the transmission back into the car. Because I am one-handed at the moment, I purchased a transmission jack, and I enlisted the help of a friend. This thing is quite the beast - 1000 lb. capacity and it has two telescoping lifting sections (rods). It cost more than I wanted to spend, but I couldn't force myself to buy a cheap, garbage version. I guess as I get older, I'm going to need more assistance for jobs like this one. So, this is a nice thing to have available. I should be able to finish putting the rest back together and take the car for a test drive tomorrow.

Excel workbook (sheet) is ready to upload to an appropriate section of the resources. Google sheet also has been updated: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Cmnw0F8N7B3VknCzNwGkfN2SGmIHdFJhDjARv3jkxNI/edit?usp=sharing Can someone confirm that you can expand and collapse the groups? You should be able to. Note that the order I have this in, from top to bottom (the sections), follows what I believe to be the best sequence of assembly - for a fully dismantled car.

"Workbook" is a term used to reference a spreadsheet "project" in Microsoft Excel. A spreadsheet is typically a single tab, whereas several tabs (each a spreadsheet) is a workbook. I went looking through my old posts and evidently I indicated that I would update the Google sheet from time to time (I am the author), and I would wait on uploading the Excel version until it was complete. I have not uploaded the Excel version to the resources section yet. I just made a couple of edits to it this week. It seems that I should go ahead with uploading it to the resources section, as it is pretty much as complete as I intend to make it.

yellow chromate hex head bolts (4 on recess in head) M10 X 1.25 - 25mm under head - fully threaded yellow chromate split lock washers - M10 yellow chromate flat washers - 22mm od - 10.5mm id Not comprehensive, but a good start - speadsheet cataloging the hardware on a 240Z: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Cmnw0F8N7B3VknCzNwGkfN2SGmIHdFJhDjARv3jkxNI/edit?usp=sharing The above descriptions are found by looking at the "rear bumper". There is copy of the workbook in the resources section of this website as well. Sorry, I had to edit that significantly!

Nice! What parts did you have done?

Yeah, this "One thing that just came to mind is the oil passageway plug that goes into the front of the block. I remember pulling it out and looking at it but am now only 80%ish sure I reinstalled it." You need to verify a plug is in place.

That sounds pretty good. The front of the car takes a pretty heavy beating over time as well. So, agree with Grannynot - part of the hood. You may want to do the front surfaces of the headlight housings and the three front lower panels as well. I think below the blue lines here: I think it best not to cut the edge so it is on the radius of a body line. Instead, I would cut it at the beginning of where starts to roll from flat... so about a 1/8th of an inch below that body line above. With flares, you will need to do something with the front of the rear flares as well. My track Z started getting beat up there quickly. I put electrical tape on (I like the silver and black contrast). I planned on getting something like the Porsche 930 has, but just never have. If you need to go with clear, consider doing something like this on the quarter panel. It will be visible. On the Z you may want to go from the front edge of the quarter panel (door opening) and along the 'waist line' body line... go far enough back to cover the front third of the flare and radius/curve the top edge down, so the PPF terminates covering about the front 1/4 to 1/3rd of the flare surface. The top and front edges of PPF will collect a bit of dirt over time. Just something to be aware of.

I installed the front grill today. As you can see, the paint is a little darker than the original, but I am not interested in painting it for a third time, especially since I have a wrist cast for the next six weeks. Interestingly, when in the sunlight, the original paint does appear to be metallic. The metallic particles seem smaller, less noticeable, but they do reflect. This is not easy to capture in a photo (second pic here): Original grill hardware:

Hi John, I used vise grips and heated the manifold with a propane torch. It makes marks, but I polished most of that out and re-plated the part. If I had to do it again, I would try to find some sheet metal that was the thickness of the slot. Maybe cut a 8 inch by 2 inch strip and slide the long edge in the slot. Use heat and, grab the plate like handles.

I put the progress dealing with the prop shaft and transmission and differential angles in another forum thread. While I was repainting the driveshaft, I also painted the front grill. The front grill, rear tail light trim panels and the hub caps all share the same paint. I bought the paint for these near the beginning of my restoration. If I recall correctly, I told the paint supply place the info for the color that is in the How to Restore your Z Car book. I painted the grill, but the color was too light - it was too grey, at least comparing to my original, not repainted hubcap. I got some crap in it too. So, repainting was necessary. This time, I took a guess, and added 10% of black paint (by weight) to make it darker. I think it came out a bit too dark, but I like it a lot more than what it was. I think I will experiment a bit more with it, adding maybe 5% of black and seeing how that looks. Then, I will repaint the tail light trim panels and possibly the hub caps as well.

Yes, I am a keeper! I had to come out to try to block an open shot. Two of the other team's players briefly competed for who was going to take the shot, and I guess one of them went straight through me. I say guess, because I am unsure what happened, but I did get the save :) For me, each wrist has now been broken - this is the second time for my radius bone in the left arm. The first time, I got a cross shaped break in it when the ball shot from 10 feet away hit nothing but my left and hammered it toward the bottom of my forearm. Continuing :) -- Both pinkie fingers, one middle finger, and a few front, as well as one back rib. I have torqued both sets of shoulder ligaments several times, but they are quite good now. And, I got nine stitches (one internal, 8 external) at the left eyebrow about 8 months ago. That is pretty much it. Many years were injury free, but not so much in this last 8 months. I didn't think I would still be playing competitively at 56, but I still really enjoy it. I think I am nearly ready to stop playing in Over 30 now however. The stitches and these most recent bone breaks came from playing in that league.

I have it and will check the ID (it is no longer installed) and compare it to the spare new one I still have on hand. I won't be out in the shop much until my wrist heals some. The end of my radius bone is broken (at the wrist) and my pinky is broken too. Was definitely unfortunate in the game on Friday!

The seal was riding here: Those wear marks indicate where the yoke was rubbing up against the bushing. Those weren't there when I installed the prop shaft. I confirmed the extension housing bushing was worn, allowing the main shaft and yoke to move excessively. Unsure if the prop shaft was balanced properly when it was shortened. The local place I took it to for balancing (after swapping in the new yoke) said it looked like it had not been balanced. Additionally, the weights they welded onto it were not tiny. So, perhaps the prop shaft was way out of balance and that is why this happened. I was able to get the transmission out on Thursday, and get the rear housing off, replace the bushing, and get it back together. But, I wasn't able to get the transmission back in the car. Unfortunately, my wrist got injured in a soccer game last night, so I won't be able to get the transmission in for a while.

Yeah I agree. So I took the day off today so I have the time to remove the transmission and replace the rear tail shaft bushing. Headed out to the garage shortly to start on that.

No, I am investigating my transmission rear bushing. I have two of these on hand I bought years ago: https://sales.omegamachine.com/Nissan_FS5W71C_Extension_Housing_Bushing_p/71411.htm I slipped one onto the old prop shaft yoke and it fits nicely. Not loose and not tight. I will have more time later tonight to measure ID and the OD of the new yoke. I'd say the new yoke is deflecting a good 0.030" to 0.040" up and down (total) inside the tail of the transmission right now. I am thinking I may need to pull the transmission tail section out of the car to do this bushing replacement.