2sixTZombii

And to Zed Head, I don't like internet bicking, its pointless. So with that, I hope you have a good night, and a good day tomorrow:) lets not make enemies over something like cheap struts, that would be silly.

I'm not putting any junk in my Z either, honestly I've decided against using those stagg struts. When I first read the link to Hybrid, I saw that JohnC(on HybridZ) mentioned being friends with the owner of the company, and saw that the springs were made in germany, it wasn't until after I posted that I realized that the springs and struts were made by two different companys, then John Coffey's post confirmed my initial suspicions, that they aren't worth using. I've heard a few people say that they run eibachs and KYBs, and its fine. And the KYBs can be had for relatively cheap, that might be a good option. And being that the KYBs and monroes have the same travel, it would too reason that eibachs could be used with stock struts as well.

Wow your helpful! Yeah I already saw and read the link, it says 1.2" , two tenths of an inch is not a big enough difference to be worth noting to me. Eibach says 1.5" but everbody that has them says its only 1", so it would stand to reason that these won't actually give you 1.2 inchs of drop. If your gonna be rude, and insulting. there is no need to respond, I don't want or need your help.

So no better really than using KYBs so if KYB can handle 1" of drop does that mean the stock struts could too? And still does anybody know how much drop you'll get out of ST springs? 1" just doesn't seem like a big enough difference to be worth. Are there any springs (not coilovers) that will get you more than 1" without chopping coils?

Thank you! That gives some idea that there not just some random china junk that you so often find on ebay for Japanese cars. At 110 vs over 400 for anything else actually meant for lowering I can find, I'm willing to take a chance. Now to the ST springs does anybody know how low these go? The person I might be buying from says 1.5-2 '' but the only source I can find says about 1''. Motorsports says eibachs are 1-1.5 but some sources say only 1", others say none, which if I blow 300 bucks on suspension, and end up with stock ride height, I'm gonna be pissed. Are there any springz that will take you lower than 1"? I suppose I could just chop the eibachs a little but so many say its wrong.

Decided I am gonna commit to properly lowring my car. The price of eibach springs isn't too bad new and I've a couple used sets, but the price of proper struts is kinda harsh. I notice a company called stagg 4 lists full sets for 110 dollars that are meant to work with lowering springs. Has anybody used them? Also I know soneone who has a set of suspension techniques springs for sale new unused, I was wondering if anybody's used these before, and how they performed. If the ST springs give me a little more drop than I might get them as it is an aesthetic more than anything, but I am also doing it for performance purposes, so I don't want junk under my car.

One of my thoughts was installing these for now, then later if the ride height just isn't working out, take it down a few inches. How hard of a job is this? Is the type of thing where do it all once, or will it easy enough to do again once I have some good stuff. Also I saw a set of eibachs and tokicos for 260-280 on one of the forum classifieds, but I know the 280s are different, just curious what is the difference? Can they be used on earlier cars? And being my car is the goofy early 260 isn't there a decent chance the parts store gave me 260-280 when I said it was a 74 260, rhis was aso before I learned to ask for parts for a 73 240z if I want the right thing.

So before you immediately condemn me for Even suggesting such an idea, let me explain my problem. When we first decided to ressurect the datsun, one the things I knew was gonna need done were the struts, there the reason my brother first stopped driving the car. So while it was stil sitting on a dirt floor garage, there was for monroe struts going on, buy 3 get one free, so after rebate thats about 150 for premium oem replacements. well I hadn't done much research yet but figured at that price I'd pick up a set. Well once I had it home on flat concrete I realized it sits up really high for a sports car. I at the time didn't realize it wasn't kosher to use stock struts with drop springs. So heres my problem while its all apart I'd like to just get both done Since it'll be pain to pull it apart, I'd rather fix my ride height while I'm at it. But have a pair of 200 dollar(there was a problem with the rebate and I never got my free strut) monroe oem struts sitting in there box that I'd rather not have wasted the money on, but would like to get the car lower. I really can't afford springs right now, but I only wanna do it once(for now). Are there any actual rwal problems with using my struts with a set of 1.5-2'' drop springs and really what is it? I'm not after a track car, or a cushy ride. I'm OK with a kinda rough ride, but want a nice handling car as well. I put a wtb ad on another forum and a guy got back to me with a set of suspension tecniques springs, are these pretty good? And what do they run new? Could I lower with stock springs or should I maybe just install my new struts with stock springs for now , and buy all the stuff later on, or maybe sell my struts for way less than I payed and get performance struts and springs? Any advice or opinions are welcome.

Well she runs pretty great now, I still run webers but I scored a different pair off a guy on datsun classifieds, for 120 shipped. And shd runs good with no choke, a nasty bog when you punch it, but I think I can jet alot of this out, these carbs run smaller jets than my old ones so I might do some swapping.

Is it just the fuel pump that isn't running or are the coil and fuel injection not getting power either? If its just the pump you could put on a direct power toggle switch, just to get rolling till you fix it right.

I figured it wasn't a big difference with stock internals, and I know DGVs are great carbs. I plan to do some performance mods later down the line, but if the webers held me back I could improve them later down the line. I am considering getting a different weber and rejetting it, but getting a set of SUs that are a straight bolt on and fly set up is looking rather attractive. I could a set with intake, and clean balance tube for 300.

I'll reset the float tomorrow and see what happens. Possibly found a good set of polished SUs to just replace these. I hafe to lose to a couple weber DGVs but I hear SUs are far better anyways.

Do you have an idea of what you'd take for them? At the right price I'd take a risk on them.

Come to think of it, if this thing was cracked and thats thats why it drips fuel could that be my issue? Something new to check tomorrow.

When you open the choke all the way for the 5-10 seconds it stays running, you can see a steady drip from the "auxiliary venturi" this thing http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/images/71115_1.jpg

And the air filter on a DGV mounts a different direction.

Yep those aren't DGVs, that accelerator pump is the middle, a dgv has it off to the side and on a dgv its actuated from the bottom. Have a pic of top side without an air cleaner? I might be interested, mostly for the fun of it and cause I'm in need.

I've actually always found the dgvs to be very aesthetically apealing, that said I might be about to buy a set of polished 240z carbs to replace mine. I wonder if these are actually solex carbs cause they made a 32/32 carb that looks similar to the weber, Iguess we'll see.

Can you hear the pump running? Is this an FI car? Do you have an eletrical tester, if not you can get them for really cheap at harbor freight. With that you can check for continuity between either side of the fusible links. If you know its getting fuel, then check your spark.

I was suspecting the float too, so I actually swapped fhe entire top half float included from one carb to the other and it didn't follow the top. I wondef if we cracked something the first we reinstalled the air corrector jets, and just didn't realize it. I half considered just buying a set of used SUs and rebuilding them, but looking at the SU is confusing enough without even touching them, le rebuilding them, it doesn't even look like a carburetor, I just don't have the confidence that I could work on a set of SUs, where as the webers are painfully simple. Although I am failing at fixing this one so........

I think you misunderstood me, I proved the float itself was good, not the level. I did so but using a screw driver to hold down in a large glass of gas for awhile. then unhooked the screw driver and it shot back to the top. I suppose I know the level is adjusted according what I read on I think it was the peirce manifolds site.

Float level is set right and proven good, honestly the running rich is mostly a matter of adjustment, I've been able to adjust it out before. It needs choke to run though and I can't see how its running rich could cause that.

Got a pic? I'm curious if there different then normal DGVs. I would interested in if they were real cheap, I have DGVs but am having major seemingly unsolvable problems(I think its possessed) with one.

I was wondering if the air corector jets could be my issue, not sure WTH they even do, but they have air in the title, they were throughly cleaned, and the passages were flowing fine.