Carl Beck

Hi Mike: THANKS for finding these and letting us know.... the pictures by Richard Owen are very good. Wish we had the LeMans wheels shinned back up before he took them... but that was late Saturday afternoon when we were putting the Race Cars on the Greens... very damp and foggy day... Hi Guus: That is pretty good - Thanks for finding it and letting us know. I'll have to get in touch with Mr. Cook... FWIW, Carl B.

The "best" set up is #2 because it has a return line. This keeps the gas flowing through the lines and therefore at a more steady temperature, which is normally cooler. The second best would be #4 - if you can get a good fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the fuel feed line. #3 Could also be used - "IF" you have it connected to a fuel distribution block, preceded by a good fuel pressure regulator. Just make sure that your return line is a size smaller than the feed - to maintain consistent pressure at the carb.'s. FWIW Carl B.

Wow... stuff from China has gone up in price a lot. Was $369.00 on sale at Northern Tool in 2003 - - - -and now it's $669.00 on sale at Northern Tool!! FWIW, Carl B.

This should give you a clue... As you can see there are 3 vents on the tank - all of which go to a Gasoline Vapor Recovery tank - that tank is then vented via #46 to the front of the engine compartment. No - the gas cap is not vented. It's a sealed system to keep gasoline vapors captive. FWIW, Carl B.

I can't blame him too much for not wanting to waste time with tire-kickers on a $2250.00 car - - - on the other hand, he should be happy to show you the car, so you can give an informed report to the Z Car Community va this public forum. No one expects a new car for $2250.00... but most prospective buyers would like to know that the car has been physically inspected by someone that knows something about these models.

Hummmm Interesting, closing what used to be "Public" Records in the States, was the result of the Federal Privacy Act. I wonder why/how Texas has been able to ignor that as it relates to "was register to you". Of course, in the case at hand, the person wants to track down the car he owned at one point. If he had the VIN and if it was ten years ago - he could could have done that - but not today. FWIW, Carl B.

It also lines the latch on the door up with the striker plate on the body - then cushions the closing door as it comes to a stop in the body. {if all the parts are on the door jam}

Hummm..... The Hyper-link from the Home Page is: http://ZHome.com/History/MacauZ/macau240Z.htm The above contains only a copy of the Vintage Motorsports Magazine article, and more current pictures of the car. I have eliminated the old link. Please up-date your Bookmarks... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Paul: I believe that the reason there is so much disagreement, is that the people aren't really disagreeing about the same thing. It really isn't a question of which vacuum "source" to use. It's a question of matching all components of the ignition timing system, to achieve the timing curve and total advance that your engine needs. Ask the questions a different way..... 1. How many inches of Mercury does the vacuum advance on the 1979 E12-80 distributor require to work properly within its design range? That is to say, how many inches of Mercury does it take to just start pulling the advance in, and at what point is the total advance pulled in. 2. How many inches of mercury are present at the manifold source at idle and wide-open throttle vs how many inches of mercury are available at the carburetor. If you don't know the exact answers to the above - your safest bet is to use the Port vacuum source that the distributor was designed to use, with the engine. If you have specific answers to the questions above - you can purchase a vacuum advance mechanism to match your needs, in terms of total engine timing and the timing curve within your distributor. Saying that you can use either - is only partly true. You can use either manifold or carb. vacuum signals "IF" all the other components are matched to your ignition timing needs. FWIW, Carl B.

Interior looks "original" so it is not surprising to see the seats split out... I don't know how long it has been sitting outside in the grass. The original owner's estate donated it to the present non-profit. It all depends on how much rust is in the floorboards and frame rails - but the car has been in California - - - and dirt aside it "might" be a very solid car to refresh or restore. The blue on the right rear quarter panel - would have to be looked at carefully. No problem of the panel was replaced properly... but it could be work if it was a poor job to begin. Dust and dirt just lower the price, not so much the market value... wonder if that is a Super Speed 20 in the spare? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: Owner passed and left it to a charity. Someone should go look at this 70 Z. At $2250.00 it "might" be a car that could be saved. Looks like the right rear quarter might have been replaced.. but if the floors/frame rails are good... it might be a good project for someone. San Diego Craigslist: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/1086609657.html Photobucket: http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/vpsvehicles/1970%20DATSUN%20240Z/?action=view&current=2d177070.pbw FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: If by "S30's" you mean all First Generation Z's - as I recall Z Car Sales hit the half million mark in 1978.... ie in just 9 years. Production by the end of 1978 seems to have been 575,954.. Everyone: The supply of reproduction and after-market parts for the First Generation Z's seems to be growing every year. So if the trend keeps up - we should see more supply over the coming years.. One big difference between the "B" and "Z" is that everything on the "B" has always had to be replaced quite often - so demand for repair/replacement parts has always been high. Whereas the Z's ran almost forever without the constant and continued need for repair and replacement parts - so demand was low - and no one wanted to provide low demand parts.. But seriously - one problem is that MG went out of business, so the aftermarket could supply repair/replacement parts with no competition from the factory. Whereas Nissan supplied just about everything/anything for the First Generation Z's until just the last few years. I'm sure you'll see the aftermarket kick in once there is demand and no other supply. FWIW, Carl B.

There are lots of conflicting opinions on that, and very few well structured long term scientific studies. Then you have about 1000 different makers and formulas for the generic "bondo" .. or plastic filler. I think the truth is it will stick to both epoxy primer and metal of either are properly prepared to begin with. The point is that a mass of plastic {or two part epoxy matrix fillers} will have a different thermo cycle time, than thin sheet-metal will. The mass of filler will chemically dry out -and it will cause the metal on the opposite side of the bondo - to condense moisture. If you have dug enough old bondo off cars sheetmetal - you'll see that the metal was rusting from the inside out under the bondo repairs. That is usually greatly reduced when you have a vapor barrier between the bare sheet-metal and the bondo. Also sealing that bondo from the sheet-metal, and allowing enough time before the final sealing coat of paint is put on top - will greatly reduce the possibility of the bondo drawing moisture from the air and bubbling up a year after the car is done... The above is only my opinion based on 40 years of refreshing/restoring cars.. FWIW, Carl B.

Late 07/73 or more likely 08/73. FWIW, Carl B.

Not at all uncommon to see some filler on the tops of the fenders. Just leaning on them with one's elbows will cause dents. If the fenders are solid - I'd pull them off, remove all the present filler - then get a good metal man to work them out as flat as possible first. Then I'd sand them on down and put an epoxy primer on them. Then finally a if needed a very thin layer of glaze/filler... and block the hell out of them. If your going to change the color - don't stop half way. Do the entire interior and the engine compartment. Pull the engine and do a first class job on the engine compartment. Pull all glass/chrome/stainless etc Do it once and do it right... That will add considerable value to the car if you use a Factory Color for that year. Do a half fast job with a surface repaint - and it will actually lower the value... Since your in one of the Eastern States - a clean, properly "refreshed" 240-Z even with a non-matching number engine - should sell for around $6K to $8K. But you'd have to do some major refreshing on the interior and of course the car would have to run out well. If everything on the car was "right" - even with an L28 and tasteful street mod's - in a year or two it could easily bring $12K - - HERE AGAIN Quality and Attention To Details matter A LOT. How do you know that it is a non numbers matching engine? Just want to make sure you understand that the engine serial numbers in these cars DO NOT match the VIN to begin with. FWIW, Carl B.

Amelia Island Was A Great Place To Meet People In The Real World. Amelia Story - #4 - Bobby Unser: We finally got a chance to meet Bobby Unser. He was one of the honored "Great Roadster Drivers". Having won the Indy 500 three times. I wish I could repeat some of the stories he told.. Vicki and I attended the seminar given by the Great Roadster Drivers Saturday morning. After the seminar, we were standing around talking to Mr. Brock and Hurley Haywood, when Bobby Unser came over to join us. I introduced myself and Vicki then told Mr. Unser that we had been to his home, were given a tour of the Unser Garage and indeed we had a picture of Vicki sitting in one of his Indy winning cars. Mr. Unser's daughter had invited us over to their home after the Z Car Convention in Albuquerque, NM. She how owns the Datsun 260Z OMS Pace Car that her father was presented after winning the 1974 California 500 - USAC Championship. So it was great to finally get to meet Mr. Unser in person. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: Would you be shimming the starter -out - by putting the shims under each of the two bolds? Or would you be putting a shim under on lip of the starter, between the two bolts? Or what???? I got used to shimming starters on the Chevy's.. never had to do that on a Datsun. thanks, Carl B.

Hi gnosez: No - the North American Spec 240Z's 70-72 did not have the metal fan shrouds as standard equipment. I'd have to go back and check - but I do not believe that the 73's had them as standard equipment either. I know they didn't for the first six months of production, because adding the fan shrouds was part of the "fix" for the problems with the emissions carb.'s in 73. Just as retro-fitting electric fuel pumps was. It might be possible that the 73's produced in the second half the year started coming through with them as standard, but I don't think so... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike/ Guys: I wasn't thinking clearly - - A Calendar was included in the "Goody-Bags" and when I stopped at the Classic Motorsports Tent - I did pick up a few more copies of the calendar. I told them that had I known they were going to be free at Amelia - I wouldn't have ordered and paid for a dozen last Dec.!! I think they would be worth more without my signature - the only time my signature is worth anything is when it's on VISA/MC/AmX charge slip... FWIW, Carl B.

If the collector coming off your header is 2" - that will be enough back-pressure for the scavenging effects of the header to take place. Twin 1 3/4 or 1 7/8's will allow you to run the exhaust pipes tucked up high enough that you won't have ground clearance problems. Muffler - is a general term, usually used to describe the main noise reduction chamber in the exhaust system. Mufflers usually reverse the flow of the exhaust gas as noise {sound waves} tends to travel in a straight line. So that is one of the most effective methods of reducing the sound of exhaust pulses from the engine. Resonator - is a smaller more specialized noise reduction chamber used to reduce high pitch resonance or drowning in the exhaust system, without introducing too much restriction to the flow. Normally located mid way in the exhaust system, or a little closer to the engine. Most resonators do not reverse the direction of the flow of exhaust gases - but rather use tubes of various diameter, with holes or slits cut in them on both the inlet and outlet ends. Moving the resonators along the exhaust system can change the tone of the exhaust system. Glasspack - refers to the material that is packed around the tubes running the length of the muffler, with holes or slots cut in the tubes. The fiberglass absorbs both the heat and noise - but it also burns out in fairly short order. So as the car is driven the sound increases. Another method of changing the tone of an exhaust system, as well as increase the total flow capability - is to put a balance tube between to the two exhaust pipes, when two are used. Again moving the balance tube, or changing the diameter of it will have an effect on the tone of the exhaust system. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jon: I had one - one Corsa that is. I had several Corvairs... I wouldn't mind haveing another Corsa... but this time with good push rod sealsROFL Carl B.

Hi Rob: Oops.. Posted the wrong Cut/Paste... at Post #19... my bad... Carl B.

No disrespect nor would I wish any bad luck... but at 61 I wouldn't wait. After you pass 68 you have a better chance of having time to wait... Secondly - the longer you wait - the more expensive these cars will be.. Money is cheap right now - take out a small loan, buy a 240Z now - then make small payments until you are ready to spend time on it... FWIW, Carl B. 64 and no time to wait any longer...

If I didn't have the 240-Z - - Pontiac Soltice with the Turbo.. Bright Yellow! FWIW, Carl B.

Cracks in the inner plastic retainer can be fixed {glued}... but if you are missing pieces of it, you are better off getting one in better shape to begin with. FWIW, Carl B.