Carl Beck

I don't believe that you need the Power Filer....I don't have one - and my Unilite has been on the since around 1978..... I can't speak for the MSD. Some people have trouble with the Tach - when running an MSD. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm I've been running a Mallory ProMaster Coil with the UniLite Distributor... I've never really been convinced that the MSD offered any measurable performance difference on an engine running pump gas {compression lower than 10:1}- when added to an already top quality system - coil, wires, distributor ,plugs and all connections.

Points are a PIA as far as I'm concerned. Some people like dinking with them. In either case I don't believe they offer the best choice. Lots of options for ignition. 1) Convert your "Points Type" distributor to optical or magnetic triggering 2) Use a 280ZX Electronic Distributor 3) Use a Mallory UniLite Distributor 4) Convert to a crank fire ignition with individual coil packs. You have to adjust the camber if you lower the car to any significant degree, if you want it to handle like a race car - doesn't matter if you are using coil-overs or lowering springs on the stock struts. If you are willing to sacrifice somewhat on steering response and tire wear. Because you'll only be driving it on the street - or you aren't going to drive it many miles per year - you can forgo proper camber angles. On the other hand - the wider the wheels and tires you run the more important proper camber angles become.. I believe there are suppliers that offer camber plates that allow limited adjustment, that do not require extensive modifications to the strut towers. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jonu: Sounds like you are in very good shape all-around for the project you propose. Two years is also a good estimate - - as a lot of that time will be spend deciding on specific parts, or specific suppliers, or specific fabricators etc - - then locating them, then waiting for them to send your stuff of do their work. Offhand - a couple of things you might want to consider: I would suggest that you give some additional thought to using coil-overs. You don't have to modify the shock towers - any more than you would if you lowered the ride height with shorter springs, or shortened struts. The main advantage of coil-overs for your use - is that you have more room under the fenders for larger tires and you have lots of options related to spring rates and shocks. Not to mention an adjustable ride height. Secondly if you haven't already - you can start looking for sources/prices on some "period correct race car parts" now - even if you are not ready to put stuff on the car. Shopping early gives you more time to compare options, prices and suppliers - - plus increases the efficiency of the process when you are working on the car. {also can save a lot of personal frustration} I'll start the List - you and others can add to it: - aluminum radiator & overflow can - remote oil filter hardware and oil cooler - Period correct S/W mechanical oil pressure, water temp, oil temp gauges if you go that way. Or the more modern digital stuff that will have the correct diameter to replace the OEM stuff.. - A good "local" source for A/N fittings and steel braided hose. You most likely won't want to buy all this stuff locally because of higher local prices - - - but it is good to know where you can get a few needed pieces in a hurry. {even if they are a bit more money}. - Rebuilt 5 spd. & what ever matching rear-gears you want. Posi-unit ? good luck,... keep us Posted... Carl

I've never seen "glass" covers. Thought they were all plexi-glass / Lexan.

That link doesn't seem to work - even without the "V". I do see a set of G-Nose Used covers starting at $699.00 Item number: 160784297122 FWIW, Carl B.

Do they want $1000.00 to rebuild it? - - Or do they want $1000.00 to pull it out, rebuild it and re-install it? Most Z Shops will rebuild your 5 spd. for around $550.00 or less if you pull it out and take it to them. Have you tried - double clutching - before going into 5th? ie. Push the clutch in and put the lever out of 4th - let the clutch out - then push the clutch in and slip it into 5th? If that works - you may only need new synchro's - or you may just have a loose nut in there. Can't remember exactly when - but the nut on the Main Shaft used to come lose on the earlier transmissions - they fixed that by having a reverse thread on later models. Someone else may have a better memory as to when that took place... Nonetheless - just because you can't get it into 5th - doesn't mean that it needs a complete overhaul. I'd try to find a good "Z" mechanic in the area.... FWIW, Carl B.

da... Just saw the picture........ never mind... bad reply.. delete

Of course you really would NOT want to do that - unless somehow you have a void below the combustion chambers - so the valves can be pushed Open, with out bending the valve stems! FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Jonu Welcome to the group. It would help if you gave us some idea as to what use you plan to put your 240Z to. Said another way - do you plan to actually "Restore" it, or just "Refresh" it, or do a complete Street Mod. to it. Once you start down any path - it can cost a lot of money to change your mind later. it would also be helpful if we knew how much room you have to work on the car, how well equipped your Tool Box is etc. As well as what time frame you have in mind - is this a one year project or are you thinking of 90 days etc.? If you want the best advice here - you have to provide the best possible information on your end. First Read this thread: It will answer a lot of your initial questions http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?22619-Waking-the-sleeping-beast Second: Read the information about the E31 and E88 L series heads here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/E31andE88Heads.htm If you actually have an E88 off a 260Z, you may not want to use it. Unless you plan extensive modifications for performance. The E88's that came on the 260Z's were "emissions" heads - not performance heads. Third: It would be a lot more useful if you can Post some clear detailed pictures of the car and its component parts. We would have to see things like the fuel lines, overall condition of the engine compartment etc - to really give you sound advice. I've never had to replace the metal fuel lines on a 240Z - but then my Z's have always been in "low rust" States/Area's. If the car spent time in the Great Lakes Area of the Country or in the North East.. you may have major rust problems. Fourth: I can't see any reason to overhaul a non-matching number L24 - for a 240Z. Even if you got an extra for free. You can pick up L28's for very little money - and it costs the same to overhaul either one. I do recommend keeping the original matching number L24 in your 240Z if you want to retain the highest resale value. If you don't care about that - and just want a nice engine with a little more power then start with an L28. Fifth: If the original engine is still in the car - I'd get it running first. Then determine what is actually needed. Might just need a fresh valve job. After you know - you can pull the engine and clean it up /detail it etc. May only need a new valve cover gasket, new pan gasket, front & rear main seals. With any care at all the L24's will easily run 150K miles without a major overhaul. good luck with your project, Carl B.

Also no need to eyebrow the L24 block if it has had a 5mm or larger overbore. FWIW, Carl B.

The rear end was moved rearward about 35 mm with the introduction of the Type B transmission for the 72 Model Year. That would have been around 09/71. Along with that rearward move - a longer drive shaft was used and the rear transverse link {lower link below the rear of the differential} was changed from being straight to curved. Your biggest problem will be with the difference in the position of the shifters - between your Type A 4 spd. and the Type B 5 spd you most likely want to install. The hole in your transmission tunnel is located about 2" farther rearward, than the hole in the transmission tunnels on the 72/73 240Z's. So you either have to modify the hole in your transmission tunnel - by cutting some of the metal out of the front of the hole - or you have to have a modified shifter such that the shift lever comes up though the transmission tunnel farther rearward. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like you have started with a pretty solid car and it should be a great project ahead - enjoy every minute of it.. The main "Pro" to the E31 for you - is that it is the correct head for anyone that wants to keep their 70/71 240Z looking stock/original. If there is a "con" - it might be that the E31's have a tendency to crack around the exhaust valve seat. Also - if they have to be milled to straighten out any warpage - there isn't much more that can be removed without driving compression ratio's too high for pump gas today. I would agree that finding good, unmolested, un-cut E31's is pretty hard to do today. For that matter the late 71 & 72 E88's, as well as the N42's are all getting hard to find in good condition. You have to be very careful when buying any of them used - as many are no longer really useable without significant rework, repair etc.

The first question you have to answer is - "are you going to use R-12 again?" or "have you already switched to R-134a?" It matters. The molecular structure of R-12 is physically larger that that of R-134. In order to maintain as much surface contact between the cooling gas and the metal surfaces of the cooling tubes - R-134 systems use condensers and evaporators that have physically smaller diameter tubes and more of them. The better one's are referred to as "uniflow" as the cooling gases flow back and fourth in the conderser. {somewhat the same principle as a "cross flow" radiator" for engine cooling}. R-134a will leak out of most older R-12 systems, because the R-12 systems did not need to use O-ringed connections, nor shielded rubber hoses. Which R-134a systems use to prevent leaking gas to the atmosphere.R-134a will actually leak right threw the walls of the old R-12 rubber hoses. Many people swear by Freeze12 as a replacement for R-12 - because the A/C oil used by them both is compatible and Freeze12 has a molecular structure similar to R-12. Thus avoiding the need to change all the old rubber hoses & connectors. I haven't used it yet - I still have a couple cans of R-12 left... but soone or later... Bottom line - what condenser you use depends on what type of refrigerant you plan to use. FWIW, Carl B.

Depends on what you are driving... Took me three days to get to Phoenix from Vista {San Diego}... When I tried to drive the BRE Baja Z back to Florida. Gave up on the original idea of driving the car home - when I got to Phoenix, then Bob Bondurant helped me raise the coil overs high enough to get the car loaded on a transport.. Flew home from there and the car arrived three days later. Road Trip anyone? Carl B.

In case "qusbo" returns... it might not be the roll bar stopping the passenger seat from going back. The original passenger seat tracks on do not allow the seat to go as far back - as the drivers side does. I've ran into this on several 240Z's - I usually just install a set of driver side seat slides on the passenger side. FWIW, Carl B.

Taz0162 reminded me.. {Post 106} - So today I pulled the Vintage Air system out of my White 72 - and am returning the car to stock - so I'll be refreshing the original heater/blower and reinstalling it over the next few days... I may just get carried away and pul the engine to refresh the engine compartment as well... FWIW, Carl B.

Just for a change of pace... OK - here is my wife's engine bay. 1991 Thuderbird Super Coupe. Super Charged 3.8L V6. Original owner car with less than 10K original miles. I was getting some pictures together as she is going to sell it. She bought a new car and this one has to go to make room. I gave some thought to just pulling the engine and swapping it into one of my 240Z'sLOL Now you can see how elegantly simple and clean the engine bay in a 240Z is... FWIW, Carl B. BTW - if you know anyone that wants an all but new 21 year old limited produciton Super Coupe.. send them my way!! $15K ...

Good to hear.. Today with the very small digital video camera's that came be put on a flexible rod and inserted into very tight places - it is possible to look inside just about every nook and cranny in these old Z's. Then you can spray POR-15 in - then re-inspect the area to assure complete coverage. Keeping video or still images of that process would add significant re-sale value - should life ever dictate its liquidation in the future. The guys at Courtesy are great - but they lost a really Great Parts Manager when Steve Richards left. Keep us posted on the project... Carl B.

As the story goes - something like the first 1500 to 1800 Datsun 240Z's sent to North America - came with rubber floor and rear deck mats - instead of the carpet. So Nissan USA had a local car carpet supplier built 1500-1800 sets of carpet - which were then sent to the Dealers with the cars. The Dealers were to install the carpet and remove the rubber mats. Some Dealers put the carpet over the rubber mats - some removed the rubber floor mats and left the rubber rear deck mat in on top of the carpet to protect the carpet. Once later customers saw the rubber rear deck mats - they thought it was a good idea. So they ordered them from the Datsun Parts Counter at their local Datsun Dealer. I was one of them. The rubber mats that came originally from the factory in the early 240Z's are just a little different than the replacement parts that came though the Nissan Parts system. As I recall - the parts that came though the Nissan Parts Dept had little cut-outs for the luggage straps to bold down though - and the ones from the factory that came in the car's didn't. Or it might be the other way around.. We discussed this some time ago - I think Mike B. supplied most of the pictures. I'd say that if you have one still in the original Nissan Parts Packaging.. That would be pretty rare indeed!! The last one's I saw auctioned on E-Bay about three years ago - went for over $400.00. If someone is restoring a 69 or early 70 production car - and they already have most of the rubber floor mats.. having the rear mat to complete the set might be worth a lot of money to them. Of course the originals that came in the car might bring more money than the replacement parts.. Any way you look at it - it would be a neat collectible for any 240Z enthusiast. Of course with E-Bay you never know - get two people that want it bidding and the sky is the limit. Get no bids.. and you may have to relist it several times to hit the market right. FWIW, Carl B.

Another option - in many area's there are people that run "Portable Soda Blasting" businesses. They will come to your house and you can have them soda blast that area. The soda can then be washed out with water. After that - you can use something like OSPHO - sprayed on with a hand pump bottle - let it sit/work for 12 hours or more - then apply POR-15 or prime and paint. FWIW, Carl B.

Great progress - keep the pictures coming. The inside of that door looked like it was in better than average condition. Where did you get the replacement door skin? Was there something wrong with the original hood ledge supports? Hard to tell from the pictures.. Did you treat the inside of the new frame rails - that came with the floorpans - with POR-15 as well? Carl B.

While you can't really find a new wiring harness - it isn't really that hard to "restore" the one you have as long as it hasn't burned up already. The good news is that in the mean time - some of the original problems or issues with the original wiring have been identified and corrections or accommodations made for them. The melting fuse boxes - can be avoided by a plug&play rewiring harness - that takes the main electrical load of the headlights - out of the fuse box and puts it in relays. That or you can replace the original glass fuse type fuse box with a more modern one... Both are available from Motorsports Auto Likewise - most of the tail light problems had to do with poor body grounds - that's an easy fix. So get that original wiring harness out - clean everything up - especially all connectors - and re-wrap it... FWIW, Carl B.

Just some thoughts... The most common cause I've seen of the sympthoms you describe - other than a bad battery - is loose or corroaded battery terminals. The first thing I'd do is pull the terminals off, clean them down to bare metal - both on the battery and on the wires. Then reconnect them making sure they are tight. Second most common is alternator belt tension too loose. Lots of people look at the terminal connections - they "look" OK and they don't go any farther. Take them off and clean them the make sure they are TIGHT. Then Sit in the car after the battery is fully charged - and the car has been stopped/not running for a few hours - then put a finger on each individual fuse - see if any of them feel warmer than the others. That might give you a clue as to which circuit to check. I know you had the battery "tested" - but did they perform a proper "Load Test" on the battery? Many auto parts stores fail to perform this test, or don't have the test equipment to do it in the first place. Batteries can hold a surface charge until they are put under a higher load - such as in starting - then they short out and go dead under a higher load. With a good battery - fully charged - you should be able to leave the parking lights on for several hours, without a problem restarting the car. Good luck Carl B.

Hi Bonzi: Yes - Bill sent me pictures of the #76 car in Jan. 2010. Then we talked at the 40th Anniversary Celebration at Nissan HQ in Nashville, when we stopped by his Orange 70. While it is listed as one of the 39 remaining first 100 in the list posted above - I had forgot to remove it from the "totalled" list at the bottom. Sorry if that caused some confusion..:stupid: Left to Right: Mr. Matsuoka, Bill Edens, Mr. Matsuo, Todd Wagner - with Bill's Orange 1970 240Z. BTW - the latest update is as of 12 Apr. 2012 - and shows 176 cars found so far. Pretty amazing that 32% of them are still in existence some 43 years later. FWIW, Carl B.

You need a chrome - LED Flashlight to snap into what was the fuel filter holder.... Or maybe a Mr. K bobble head... It just looks like something is missing there... actually it is... but it shouldn't look that way... FWIW, Carl B.