Carl Beck

Hummmm Interesting, closing what used to be "Public" Records in the States, was the result of the Federal Privacy Act. I wonder why/how Texas has been able to ignor that as it relates to "was register to you". Of course, in the case at hand, the person wants to track down the car he owned at one point. If he had the VIN and if it was ten years ago - he could could have done that - but not today. FWIW, Carl B.

It also lines the latch on the door up with the striker plate on the body - then cushions the closing door as it comes to a stop in the body. {if all the parts are on the door jam}

Hummm..... The Hyper-link from the Home Page is: http://ZHome.com/History/MacauZ/macau240Z.htm The above contains only a copy of the Vintage Motorsports Magazine article, and more current pictures of the car. I have eliminated the old link. Please up-date your Bookmarks... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Paul: I believe that the reason there is so much disagreement, is that the people aren't really disagreeing about the same thing. It really isn't a question of which vacuum "source" to use. It's a question of matching all components of the ignition timing system, to achieve the timing curve and total advance that your engine needs. Ask the questions a different way..... 1. How many inches of Mercury does the vacuum advance on the 1979 E12-80 distributor require to work properly within its design range? That is to say, how many inches of Mercury does it take to just start pulling the advance in, and at what point is the total advance pulled in. 2. How many inches of mercury are present at the manifold source at idle and wide-open throttle vs how many inches of mercury are available at the carburetor. If you don't know the exact answers to the above - your safest bet is to use the Port vacuum source that the distributor was designed to use, with the engine. If you have specific answers to the questions above - you can purchase a vacuum advance mechanism to match your needs, in terms of total engine timing and the timing curve within your distributor. Saying that you can use either - is only partly true. You can use either manifold or carb. vacuum signals "IF" all the other components are matched to your ignition timing needs. FWIW, Carl B.

Interior looks "original" so it is not surprising to see the seats split out... I don't know how long it has been sitting outside in the grass. The original owner's estate donated it to the present non-profit. It all depends on how much rust is in the floorboards and frame rails - but the car has been in California - - - and dirt aside it "might" be a very solid car to refresh or restore. The blue on the right rear quarter panel - would have to be looked at carefully. No problem of the panel was replaced properly... but it could be work if it was a poor job to begin. Dust and dirt just lower the price, not so much the market value... wonder if that is a Super Speed 20 in the spare? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: Owner passed and left it to a charity. Someone should go look at this 70 Z. At $2250.00 it "might" be a car that could be saved. Looks like the right rear quarter might have been replaced.. but if the floors/frame rails are good... it might be a good project for someone. San Diego Craigslist: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/1086609657.html Photobucket: http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa285/vpsvehicles/1970%20DATSUN%20240Z/?action=view&current=2d177070.pbw FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: If by "S30's" you mean all First Generation Z's - as I recall Z Car Sales hit the half million mark in 1978.... ie in just 9 years. Production by the end of 1978 seems to have been 575,954.. Everyone: The supply of reproduction and after-market parts for the First Generation Z's seems to be growing every year. So if the trend keeps up - we should see more supply over the coming years.. One big difference between the "B" and "Z" is that everything on the "B" has always had to be replaced quite often - so demand for repair/replacement parts has always been high. Whereas the Z's ran almost forever without the constant and continued need for repair and replacement parts - so demand was low - and no one wanted to provide low demand parts.. But seriously - one problem is that MG went out of business, so the aftermarket could supply repair/replacement parts with no competition from the factory. Whereas Nissan supplied just about everything/anything for the First Generation Z's until just the last few years. I'm sure you'll see the aftermarket kick in once there is demand and no other supply. FWIW, Carl B.

There are lots of conflicting opinions on that, and very few well structured long term scientific studies. Then you have about 1000 different makers and formulas for the generic "bondo" .. or plastic filler. I think the truth is it will stick to both epoxy primer and metal of either are properly prepared to begin with. The point is that a mass of plastic {or two part epoxy matrix fillers} will have a different thermo cycle time, than thin sheet-metal will. The mass of filler will chemically dry out -and it will cause the metal on the opposite side of the bondo - to condense moisture. If you have dug enough old bondo off cars sheetmetal - you'll see that the metal was rusting from the inside out under the bondo repairs. That is usually greatly reduced when you have a vapor barrier between the bare sheet-metal and the bondo. Also sealing that bondo from the sheet-metal, and allowing enough time before the final sealing coat of paint is put on top - will greatly reduce the possibility of the bondo drawing moisture from the air and bubbling up a year after the car is done... The above is only my opinion based on 40 years of refreshing/restoring cars.. FWIW, Carl B.

Late 07/73 or more likely 08/73. FWIW, Carl B.

Not at all uncommon to see some filler on the tops of the fenders. Just leaning on them with one's elbows will cause dents. If the fenders are solid - I'd pull them off, remove all the present filler - then get a good metal man to work them out as flat as possible first. Then I'd sand them on down and put an epoxy primer on them. Then finally a if needed a very thin layer of glaze/filler... and block the hell out of them. If your going to change the color - don't stop half way. Do the entire interior and the engine compartment. Pull the engine and do a first class job on the engine compartment. Pull all glass/chrome/stainless etc Do it once and do it right... That will add considerable value to the car if you use a Factory Color for that year. Do a half fast job with a surface repaint - and it will actually lower the value... Since your in one of the Eastern States - a clean, properly "refreshed" 240-Z even with a non-matching number engine - should sell for around $6K to $8K. But you'd have to do some major refreshing on the interior and of course the car would have to run out well. If everything on the car was "right" - even with an L28 and tasteful street mod's - in a year or two it could easily bring $12K - - HERE AGAIN Quality and Attention To Details matter A LOT. How do you know that it is a non numbers matching engine? Just want to make sure you understand that the engine serial numbers in these cars DO NOT match the VIN to begin with. FWIW, Carl B.

Amelia Island Was A Great Place To Meet People In The Real World. Amelia Story - #4 - Bobby Unser: We finally got a chance to meet Bobby Unser. He was one of the honored "Great Roadster Drivers". Having won the Indy 500 three times. I wish I could repeat some of the stories he told.. Vicki and I attended the seminar given by the Great Roadster Drivers Saturday morning. After the seminar, we were standing around talking to Mr. Brock and Hurley Haywood, when Bobby Unser came over to join us. I introduced myself and Vicki then told Mr. Unser that we had been to his home, were given a tour of the Unser Garage and indeed we had a picture of Vicki sitting in one of his Indy winning cars. Mr. Unser's daughter had invited us over to their home after the Z Car Convention in Albuquerque, NM. She how owns the Datsun 260Z OMS Pace Car that her father was presented after winning the 1974 California 500 - USAC Championship. So it was great to finally get to meet Mr. Unser in person. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: Would you be shimming the starter -out - by putting the shims under each of the two bolds? Or would you be putting a shim under on lip of the starter, between the two bolts? Or what???? I got used to shimming starters on the Chevy's.. never had to do that on a Datsun. thanks, Carl B.

Hi gnosez: No - the North American Spec 240Z's 70-72 did not have the metal fan shrouds as standard equipment. I'd have to go back and check - but I do not believe that the 73's had them as standard equipment either. I know they didn't for the first six months of production, because adding the fan shrouds was part of the "fix" for the problems with the emissions carb.'s in 73. Just as retro-fitting electric fuel pumps was. It might be possible that the 73's produced in the second half the year started coming through with them as standard, but I don't think so... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike/ Guys: I wasn't thinking clearly - - A Calendar was included in the "Goody-Bags" and when I stopped at the Classic Motorsports Tent - I did pick up a few more copies of the calendar. I told them that had I known they were going to be free at Amelia - I wouldn't have ordered and paid for a dozen last Dec.!! I think they would be worth more without my signature - the only time my signature is worth anything is when it's on VISA/MC/AmX charge slip... FWIW, Carl B.

If the collector coming off your header is 2" - that will be enough back-pressure for the scavenging effects of the header to take place. Twin 1 3/4 or 1 7/8's will allow you to run the exhaust pipes tucked up high enough that you won't have ground clearance problems. Muffler - is a general term, usually used to describe the main noise reduction chamber in the exhaust system. Mufflers usually reverse the flow of the exhaust gas as noise {sound waves} tends to travel in a straight line. So that is one of the most effective methods of reducing the sound of exhaust pulses from the engine. Resonator - is a smaller more specialized noise reduction chamber used to reduce high pitch resonance or drowning in the exhaust system, without introducing too much restriction to the flow. Normally located mid way in the exhaust system, or a little closer to the engine. Most resonators do not reverse the direction of the flow of exhaust gases - but rather use tubes of various diameter, with holes or slits cut in them on both the inlet and outlet ends. Moving the resonators along the exhaust system can change the tone of the exhaust system. Glasspack - refers to the material that is packed around the tubes running the length of the muffler, with holes or slots cut in the tubes. The fiberglass absorbs both the heat and noise - but it also burns out in fairly short order. So as the car is driven the sound increases. Another method of changing the tone of an exhaust system, as well as increase the total flow capability - is to put a balance tube between to the two exhaust pipes, when two are used. Again moving the balance tube, or changing the diameter of it will have an effect on the tone of the exhaust system. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jon: I had one - one Corsa that is. I had several Corvairs... I wouldn't mind haveing another Corsa... but this time with good push rod sealsROFL Carl B.

Hi Rob: Oops.. Posted the wrong Cut/Paste... at Post #19... my bad... Carl B.

No disrespect nor would I wish any bad luck... but at 61 I wouldn't wait. After you pass 68 you have a better chance of having time to wait... Secondly - the longer you wait - the more expensive these cars will be.. Money is cheap right now - take out a small loan, buy a 240Z now - then make small payments until you are ready to spend time on it... FWIW, Carl B. 64 and no time to wait any longer...

If I didn't have the 240-Z - - Pontiac Soltice with the Turbo.. Bright Yellow! FWIW, Carl B.

Cracks in the inner plastic retainer can be fixed {glued}... but if you are missing pieces of it, you are better off getting one in better shape to begin with. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bob: It was great getting to meet you and your wife - finally in the physiclal world. Likewise - several of the Z Car nuts I've gotten to know only in the virtual world of the Internet. I'm only sorry that the activities of the Event keep me too busy to spend the time I would like to have had with everyone in person. It is an event that really should last two days at least. So many wonderful cars, so little time to see them. Anyway, I'm glad you could make this year. Surrounded by so many Ferraris and Porsches it was good to have some Z People around!! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: Yes - I bought a Freedom brand 8.5'x20' enclosed, V-Nose. Found a local Dealer that would meet the Internet Pricing. $4095.00 plus $200.00 shipping to Tampa, Fla. With Sales Tax and Tag etc. it was about $4698.00 out the door. Strong full box triple tong and frame, 1" x 1.5" steel tubing welded upper structure. 3/4" plywood floor, 5/8's side walls. Load ramp with 16" extension, 4 5000lb tie downs... For the price it's a pretty good trailer for the money - towed very stable... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Donna: The more you drive the car, the longer you keep, it the more you'll love it. It's impossible to tell from the pictures - however it looks like a pretty good car to start with. So after the initial joy and happiness works it way through you - - it will be time to take a deep breath and let the logical side of your brain take over. First Step Is Critical Assessment: Really go over the car with fine tooth comb. If you have a friend that knows something about cars, or perhaps you can get a local Z Car Club member to assist - - you want to take a note pad and go over the car from the front bumper to the rear bumper and NOTE every thing you observe that is anything less than it should be. Be really critical - the idea here is to document all the flaws, so later you can determine what all will need to be corrected, assign some reasonable cost to it and start planning for the cars future. Second Step Is Preservation: -Get the car up on a lift - and inspect the undercarriage. STOP any surface rust NOW. -Take that battery out - and clean the area under it and around it, stop any surface rust and repaint to protect the metal. -The bumper look to be in pretty good shape - take them off and clean inside them, and again stop any surface rust - put a protective coating of paint inside them. You may want to later send them out to be straightened and re-chromed. - Pull all the carpet and padding out - check the floorboards etc - and again stop any surface rust - repaint to preserve... - Clean all the diamond pattern vinyl and plastic panels - they look to be in pretty good shape. Get them very clean, Armor-All them and then take care to protect them when using the car. - The Tail Lights look to be in pretty good shape - carefully clean them and polish the chrome strips. These are getting very expensive... so get them clean and put a coat of wax on them to preserve them. - get a friend - a few bottles of brake fluid - and flush the brake system. Do the clutch as well. Clean and flush the cooling system as well. On and on and on - clean and preserve, clean and preserve, clean and preserve. You can spend a couple hours a few evening per week, perhaps 6 to 8 hours per weekend... Third Step - Start Gathering Needed Parts and Finding Needed Vendors/Suppliers/Service Providers: As you have now gone over the car and made notes, and you are now looking at every detail as you clean and preserve - - - start gathering all the parts you will want to, or need to, replace. Stock pile them over the next year or two if necessary. Also start getting recommendations for good body shops in your area. Talk to people at car shows, look their cars over and take notes... get recommendations. At some point - you may want to completely refresh or even restore that car. "Refresh" is more likely because it is getting VERY expensive to do an actual restoration today. All-in-all the car looks to be in pretty stock and original condition. While the engine compartment is dirty - it looks like it hasn't been molested. The original metal fan has been replaced with the lighter plastic version (a good thing for a street driven car). The original Dealer Installed A/C looks to be in place etc. Overall it looks like you have a pretty good early Z there.. You can clean it up and drive it as is for a couple years and later you might want to take it to the next level... Plan your work and work your plan.. Good luck, Carl B.

Friday evening we were starved... So we went one of the restaurants in the Ritz-Carlton for dinner. Only to find out that reservations were required, and without them the waiting list was about four hours long. The Hostess told us that we could get something to eat in the Sports Bar, as we could order off the Cafe menu there. So there we went. The Sports Bar was not too busy, but all the table were taken, so we decided to just sit at the bar. A few minutes after we ordered - another couple came in and sat at the bar with us. I thought I recognized the guy, but just couldn't pull the name from memory. You know how it is when you see someone you know, but just can't place them or remember their name quickly enough. We spoke briefly, and give them our copy of the Cafe menu - and I kept thinking that he would say something that would key my memory.... something like "I saw you at the Cleveland Convention" or "aren't you from Clearwater"... After about 10 minutes it hit me - "Is your name Chip?" I ask him. "Yes" he replied. "Foose?" I continued. "Yes", he replied!! Da.. no wonder he didn't recognize me, he didn't know me from Adam. I had to laugh.... Anyway - Vicki and I had dinner with Chip Foose and his wife. So we talked about all manor of Design, Automobiles, Kids, Dog's and life in general. Very down to earth couple and it was a real pleasure to met them both. Ah Amelia.... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: I was standing at the front door to the Convention Hotel minding my own business - when the group of girls came out. They were throwing a bachlorette party for one of their friends. They were wound-up... Having a daughter of my own, and always loving young girls - I started talking to them. They thought they were going to shock this old man, but of course that isn't possible... So I started joking with them and teasing them a bit .. and we had a good time exchanging stories while they waited for the bus to take them bar hopping in Cleveland. One of the girls sent me the picture the following week and said they had a great time. I had told her that she had to send me a picture because my daughter would be mortified.... she knows how I tease or harass her friends... So yes - Vicki saw the picture and was not at all surprised and yes - my daughter was mortified... eyes rolled.... FWIW, Carl B.