Carl Beck

Let's back up for a minute. Nissan Motors Ltd. when formed in 1934 was actually a conglomerate of different businesses. Building a small car named "DATSUN" was a very small part of their business model. A far larger part of their income came from supplying Ford, Chevy and Chrysler with component parts for their plants in Japan, as well as developing an electrical component supply business. While the Practical Automobile Production Co. produced some 563 Datson's in 1933, Ford and Chevy had been producing over 15,000 units per year each by 1930 in Japan. They were major customers of Nissan Motors in 1934. Rather than directly compete with their major source of income - Nissan marketed a "small car" in Japan - the Datsun. The first car to bare the "Nissan" brand was actually the full size Graham-Paige Crusader purchased entirely from America in 1936, and re-branded "Nissan" in 1937. Design, Patents, Production Tooling and Assembly Line plus Engineering Support and Consulting were all purchased by Nissan and physically moved to Japan. Also components for the Crusader that had been supplied from American suppliers were supplied to Nissan after the transfer. Graham-Paige also supplied the design and power-plant for the truck and bus branded "Nissan". So prior to WW-II Nissan decided to sell their small cars as DATSUN and later their larger cars, trucks and buses as under the "Nissan" brand. In the 50's as Nissan again started production of their small cars - they used the DATSUN brand on them in Japan. DATSUN was not only an "export" brand name, it was the brand name used by Nissan for their small cars in Japan as well. We well never know if Nissan had entered the U.S. market in 1960 to market their cars under the Nissan brand, if they would have been successful or not. In any case it is unlikely that they would have been as successful as quickly using NISSAN as a brand. It was only 15 years after WW-II, and the President of Nissan had been very publicly tried for heinous war crimes related to Nissan's actions in China, put in prison and banned from ever holding a corporate position of authority again in Japan. If you are old enough you may recall that there was much talk of General MacArthur running for President of the US in the late 40's and his actions in Japan were broadly covered in the American Press, so Nissan's actions in China were too. So "Nissan" most definitely had a P.R. problem with their Corporate name in America in the 50's and it is believable that would have concerned them going into the 60's as they attempted entering the market here. What we do know is that importing Datsuns and marketing Datsun as a brand name in the U.S. was a very successful strategy, and most of that success was due to Mr. K. efforts here. He really made the brand "Datsun" seem like a true emigrant rather than an immigrant. When it comes to marketing "Perception" is 95% of the battle. So I think it is hard to support the argument that Nissan made a mistake by bringing the Datsun brand of small cars and trucks to America when they did. It was a brand historically applied to their small cars and one that the U.S. Servicemen stationed in Japan came to admire. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rich: Good idea on the freeze plugs - be sure to paint them blue. Did you use a coat of Permitex or some other sealer when installing the freeze plugs? If not - or even if so - I'd run only water in the cooling system when you first restart that engine. 1. if you have any leaks - you only lose/clean up water 2. if you put anti-freeze and water mix in - then it is thinner and can leak were water alone would not. Running only water gives everything a better chance to seat in, as the engine goes through a few thermo cycles. That engine compartment is going to look amazing.. FWIW, Carl B.

The dog legs are quite commonly rusted on the 240-Z's - there are patch panels made to repair them. Not a huge deal. We'd have to see more of the body, the floorboards and frame rails as mentioned... Also, you would want to know if the original engine is still in the car - check the engine serial number below the #6 spark plug on the BLOCK.. and see if that number matches the data on the data tag under the hood - it is screwed to the shock tower. Looks like it would be capable of being brought back to life... It would take a lot of work and money however... FWIW, Carl B.

"Cleaner" - - NO I'd run some ATF down the valve stems, from the top of the head. Let it soak though - then turn the engine over by hand. I also put some ATF and/or Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders and let it soak through for a day - turn the engine by hand and repeat. Once everything seems free - Drain the oil pan, change the filter and refill with fresh 20 wt oil, pour oil over the cam and rocker faces.. Then if the fuel system has been cleaned, at least from the fuel pump though the carb.'s - you can use an external fuel source to see if the engine will crank and start. I say external fuel source - because you do not want to suck the varnish and crud out of the fuel tank and fuel lines - make sure you drop the fuel tank and clean it and the lines out before you hook them back up to the engine. Take your time - work the engine turn over by hand until everything feels like it is turning freely. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Brandon: I'm certainly no chemist nor expert on todays painting systems... but as I understand it - from the people I know that are in the business........ First - just to be clear. I said self-etching epoxy primer. I did not say "epoxy etching primer". ep·ox·y n. pl. ep·ox·ies 1. Any of various usually thermosetting resins capable of forming tight cross-linked polymer structures characterized by toughness, strong adhesion, and low shrinkage, used especially in surface coatings and adhesives. Epoxy Primers are commonly said to be self-etching - Common use however does not agree with the technical definition of the term "etch" - Granted. Epoxy primers that contain a fairly large amount of solvents, actually soak into the bare metal surface... and they are commonly referred to as being "self-etching", meaning they do not require bare metal to be acid etched prior to application, nor do they require an etching agent to be included or added. BTW- epoxies of all sorts make excellent adhesives because of their ability to penetrate and thus bond themselves to the surfaces to which they are applied. According To DuPont For Example: DuPont CF-22860S Chrome-Free Etch Primer is a is a two-component, self-etching primer that provides exceptional corrosion resistance and adhesion to properly prepared bare metal (steel, galvanized and aluminum). It is mixed 1:1 with 22805S ChromaPremier Activator DuPont 2510S Epoxy DTM primer-sealer a two component primer with corrosion resistance and excellent adhesion for direct-to-metal applications. DTM is available in lead/chromate free and chromate for use under body filler, polyester putties, primer-surfacers and topcoats. It is mixed in various ratio's with DTM Activator The primer you are using most likely is a zinc chromate primer, they usually dry out a light green. {but that is just a guess on my part}. If it is a two part - ie mixed with an "activator " prior to application it is an epoxy. If it is sprayed out of the can and simply mixed or thinned.. it is not an epoxy. Sorry for any confusion of terms .... Please feel free to correct/discuss/disagree... as I said, I only go by the "in shop" education my friends supply as I constantly ask questions. Both my friends have 30+ years experience in body shops, both sell automotive paints and supplies, both are excellent painters themselves - and one is paid by several different paint manufacturers and suppliers to demonstrate proper use and application of their products - in body shops around Florida and at trade shows Nationally. NEITHER however are Chemists, so I usually get mixed terms from them, with lots of "ifs", "and/or's" and "except whens".. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Andrew: Great report - thanks for sharing the experience with us. Reminds me of my "alligator on the Freeway" experience... so I know exactly how you feel. Glad to hear that everything went your way on this one. FWIW, Carl B.

Dented frame rails are typical. You'll find perhaps one out of forty that aren't dented. Over the years people do run over parking lot stops, other people put lift pads under the wrong part of the frame rails and other things get ran over on the highway... It's nice to find a first generation Z with prefect frame rails... but actually it is unusual. Are you crazy to buy it?... depends on the overall condition of the car and how much it costs... FWIW, Carl B.

Normally, if you have sanded the old finish off, down to bare metal - you have also all but polished the metal itself. You can use either a self-etching primer such as many of the epoxy primers are, or you can use a chemical such as Ospho to kill flash rust and etch the metal, then prime. Many Body Shop Supply Stores sell chemicals that can be added directly to some primers to make it a one step process. Sounds like you already have an answer to what could happen - the paint and the primer it is adhered to can peel off in sheets. Just because it "can" doesn't mean for sure that it "will". If the car is still completely apart.... only you can decide if you want to take the chance or not. If the car is already reassembled.... you've pretty much already taken the chance. I've never used that brand of paint. I will say that looking at the cost of a gallon of their Acrylic Enamel Red or their Urethane Base/Clear .. it seems awfully cheap... When it comes to Automotive finishes you usually get what you pay for. Granted there is a large difference between wholesale and retail.. but even at wholesale prices premium quality finishes usually cost three to four times that much. Are they worth it or not - again it depends on your objectives/goals. In terms of lasting finish luster and durability IMHO the answer is yes. FWIW Carl B.

UP TO July 73 73810-E4100 MOLDING-ROOF DRIP RH - superceded 73812-N4500 MOLDING-ROOF DRIP RH - superceded 73812-N4425 MOLDING-ROOF DRIP RH From Oct. 73 2+2 73812-N4526 SET-MOLDING ROOF DRIP-RH FWIW, Carl B.

Just go buy an inline fuel pressure gauge, they don't cost much - and put it on the outlet side of the fpr. Most fpr's work by pushing a spring up to allow fuel flow.. I don't think pulling a vacuum on one would tell you anything useful..

Take $6K in cash with you, and go look the car over carefully. If it is as the owner describes, its worth $6K. Come on folks, a 78 with 88K original miles... as rust free as they come back East... $6K is priced to sell!! Heck, a basic paint job is $5K... If it is not exactly as the owner describes - then simply enjoy to trip to/from the cars location. Stay around the Chattahoochee National Forest, or Sumter National Forest over the weekend.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rich: Nissan recommends that the head bolts be replaced, not reused. With that early engine I'd replace them with the newer Turbo Head Bolts, they hold more torque. Also, if you replace the clutch disk - be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced. FWIW, Carl B.

Hummm...... That must have been one large bolt, that the nut was rusted on!! 516 lbs/ft of torque would have twisted most bolts off in our cars long before reaching 516 lbs/ft Of course one would really have to conduct that sort of test on many different tread types, and on bolts/nuts frozen due to more than just rust. The higher the torque applied to the bolt when it is put in, the more the treads distort and force themselves to be in contact surface face to surface face. Sometimes there is not "rust" at all involved, just surface contaminants imbedded in the threads and preventing them from releasing. Steel bolts in aluminum heads where water is running past them is never a good thing either. At any rate - to this date Kroil has been the best penetrating oil I've ever found, for use in almost any situation. Expensive on a per can basis, but worth every penny as far as I am concerned. I've never tried the Silikroil - mostly because Kroil Oil has always worked to begin with. Net time I place an order I may just give it a try.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bob: Have you been able to buy that hose recently? I couldn't get any the last time I ordered them. The hose that was avaiable, was the one that ended going into the end of the manifold, rather than the one that goes in on the top. So I just had to switch the position of the inlet with the plug on the end. So even though it didn't duplicate the bends of that hose - you could still get one that works.. FWIW, Carl B.

Having lived in Florida for the past 36 years, with my 72 Z, I do not find Florida to be at all "rust causing". The second 72 I purchased from its original owner here in St. Petersburg, Florida and found it to be all but rust free as well. I did have to replace the dog legs on the second 72 - but I've seem them go bad on just as many West Coast Z's. Granted that most of the Great Lakes States, and the rest of the rust belt States are called that for a reason. There is however no comparison between cars from the North and Florida cars. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Scott: Quite a switch from an F-350 to a 240Z!! Nonetheless I'm sure you will love driving the Z. If you are talking "serious powerhouse" I hope the other site you joined is hybridZ.org Lot of information and help here related to the Classic Z Cars... With Gasoline on its way back toward $4.00 or $6.00 per gallon - you might want to consider keeping that L24 and going for serious MPG's... and leave the POWER in the F-350 FWIW, Carl B.

OK - I'm sure that Distinctive Ind. bought the vinyl they used from some supplier, or perhaps directly from the manufacturer here in the US in 2001. If that is the case - then I'd check with one or several Auto Upholstery Shops in your area to see if they use a supplier that deals with the same manufacturer... Many shop owners can look at the vinyl and tell you who produces that pattern. Last time I checked there were really only about six companies that produce all the vinyl fabric sold here in the US under about 30 different brand names. The number of manufacturers in the market may have increased as everyone is now going to China for supply as well... Good luck, Carl B.

Hi Mike: That link and the four pages of discussion - contain a lot of incorrect information - that one really doesn't need to sort though again. Scott: The VIN's on the Datsun 240-Z's for North America are really simple - and therefore provide only basic information. VIN's post 1980 were configured to a Federal Standard, and contain more information. If your looking at a 1973 Model Year 240-Z here - then the VIN will be something like HLS30 12xxxx. All 1973 Model Year 240-Z's for North America have VIN's starting at HLS30 120001 H = L24 engine L= Left Hand Drive S30= 2dr. sport coupe body 120001 is the chassis serial number That's all it will tell you... What you want to check is that the VIN on the Dash, matches the VIN on the Firewall, matches the VIN on the Engine Data Tag and Drivers Door Jamb. You also want to check that the original engine serial number on the Engine Data Tag matches the serial number on the engine block. FWIW, Carl B.

$4K, $6K, $8K, $10K...whatever... All depends on what you really want to buy. You just don't want to spend $10K on a car and have it turn out being a $4K car. Given your location - if you want a "project", that will need complete paint and body work, plus refreshing of every aspect of the car - - - then $4K isn't out of the question for that one. On the other hand if you want a 240-Z to own, drive and enjoy - - that will still have lots of things needing attention - then plan on spending at least $12K for one today. Want to jump in the car and have fun driving it across country, or over a couple of States to attend a Z Car meet - and still be proud to say it's yours? Plan on spending $18K up front, or buy a car for $4K and spend the next two years and an additional $20K to get it in the same shape as the car you could have bought for $18K in the first place. I'd go to California and buy this one for $6K.... Far less rust, already inspected by another Z Car person - You would just need better pictures of the undercarriage and interior... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34935 FWIW, Carl B.

Although the Subject Line says "Original vinyl seat material for 240Z"... I get the impression that richard1 really has the reproduction from MSA, and that he is wanting the material used in that reproduction seat upholstery kit. richard1 - you are looking to repair a reproduction set - Yes/No? FWIW, Carl B.

If you have re-plated the bolts/nuts/parts - and cleaned the aluminum up - - you may as well re-paint the block the original color. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bruce: Don't know where you got that idea - but Nissan Never Replaced the Emissions Certified "Flat Tops" with the older "Round Tops". Rather Nissan worked for months to identify and correct the problems they had with the "Flat Tops". Due to Federal Laws, any Dealer that disabled or removed any emissions control devices - would have been subject to very heavy fines, and could have lost their Dealer Licenses. I do know that several Service Managers - made personal recommendations to customers, that "the customers" swap out the Flat Tops for the Round Tops as the Federal Laws at the time did not apply to privately owned vehicles. FWIW, Carl B.

Fuel Leaks: The fuel use you describe is usually from leaking gas somewhere. There is a long plastic filler neck, that runs from the exterior of the body to the fuel tank. It is common for them to be cracked and leak fuel when the tank is more than half full. Second most common is the rubber fuel supply and return lines. They run from/to the hard lines under the car from/to the fuel tank. If you are sure you have no leaks - then get your carb's sorted out - and be sure to change the oil in the engine. That rich a fuel mixture will wash oil off the cylinder walls and dilute the oil with gasoline. NOT GOOD!!. Check your engine oil level, and see if it is increasing as you drive the car. FWIW, Carl B.

The only glitch in the process was trying to take the smog tubes out of the manifold. They are rusted in. I could only loosen two, so I have applied Liquid Wrench to the threads and will let them soak and try to loosen them again tomorrow. I use Aero Kroil -that is Kano Lab's penetrating oil in a spray can - it is the only product that I've seen break the air injection tube nuts loose. Given enough time, and repeated applications - you might get them out with Liquid Wrench... http://Kanolabs.com After soaking them with Kroil - I put a line wrench {brake line wrench} on the nuts - then a swift blow with a brass hammer - and they usually break lose. You want to assure that the line wrench is a good tight fit - otherwise you can round the nuts off... If they don't break lose... then you have to heat the manifold around the nuts... FWIW, Carl B.