Carl Beck

Rolf - check your e-mail... hope this helps.. Carl B.

You might try typing his name in the GOOGLE.COM search. It may show up somewhere on the Web or in a White Pages Listing {"White Pages" - used to be the standard listing in hard copy phone books} The problem is - you may find 100 or more people with the same name. In which case you have to pin down the City/State or know something more about him in the first place. good luck, Carl

Chris: You know about 73667. It was in the Nissan warehouse and both Nissan and Pete E. "thought" it was a VZ. When Nissan moved, and finally dug the cars out of the warehouse they found it was NOT a VZ. Nonetheless, that was after Pete's book had gone to publication. FWIW, Carl B.

Good luck with that!! This is the ONLY 58 Fury, a Golden Commando - that I have seen at any shows in the last 20 years. Personally - I love the 56 Fury the best.. but that's just me. FWIW, Carl B.

The 72 Field Service Manual lists the weight of the North American 240Z's as 2350 lbs and 2400 lbs for the A/T. The 72 Field Service Manuals give you the "normal weight" placed on each of the four independent struts. Left Front = 562 lbs. and Right Front = 604 lbs. Rear = 635 lbs each Front = 1166 lbs Rear = 1270 lbs total = 2436 As a guess the I'd say that the difference of 86 lbs. - between the weight of the car {2350lbs} and the weights given as "normal load" for the suspension {2436lbs}, would be the car plus normal fluids as sitting at the curb. {oil, water and half a tank of gasoline}. The owners manual shows that the max. load is 420 lbs. I can find no factory documents that specifically lists a maximum load on each axle, nor a maximum weight of the car. FWIW, Carl B.

If you have the VIN correct - it would have a Manufacture Date of 02/72. I have HLS30 71162 listed as being in Seinajoki, Finland. FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like a great Project Car, and at a very low price. Also marks you as "seriously hooked":-) The seats alone are almost worth the price of the car. Enjoy the process... Carl B.

Looks like 1977 with 84,156 total produced and 75,957 exported was the highest production year for the First Generation Z's. A few of the units exported to other than North America would have been additional 260Z units. 1974 production 62,961 total with 54,026 exported 1979 105,045 produced and 85,643 exported set the record for the Second Generation Of course these are "calendar year production/export" numbers so there is some overlap of specific models - given that model change overs were in the last quarter of the year... FWIW, Carl B.

Koalia: What is the VIN on your Z? Carl B.

Automobile Title and License Plate information are "Public Records". Since taxes were collected for license fee's they used to be open to the Public. However Federal Laws passed to protect "Personal Privacy" now cover them - and they are no longer open to the public. So it is no longer possible for individual citizens to research previous owners of a vehicle. Lawyers can gain access to the records with a Court Order if they are needed for a law suite, Police have access to the current records for law enforcement purposes.

New? or Used? Carl B.

Or.. if you have a Mac - just use the Graphic Converter program that is included. ;-) FWIW, Carl B.

There simply are not enough cars on that registry to fill in all the blanks between. FWIW, Carl B.

If that engine number is 176715 - it came out of a 73 240Z and is not the original in your car. Take the engine number off the data tag in the engine compartment. 176xxx series engines are found in cars with build dates of 05 or 06 of 73. FWIW, Carl B.

On my computer screen, Lee's first picture looks about right. The picture of the pully at Post #3 looks like it has too much green/teal in it. Motorman's block looks about right given a slightly darker lighting in that photo. FWIW, Carl

Hi Tom: GREAT story - thanks for sharing. I think many of us can relate to that trip, in many ways. All though your story I found myself thinking - "yes, I've been there and yes I've done that".... Problems along the way simply add interest to the trip and provide better material for the story afterward... keep at it... Carl B.

Not really. The R180's that were raced ran 4 sypder gears - the OEM units have two. That is the weak point in the differential. The R180's that were raced by winning teams - were checked/rebuilt several times per season and many ran differential coolers for longer races. Nonetheless - I agree that the R180 in as new condition is strong enough - and stronger if you add a posi unit with 4 spider gears. The R200's are stronger - and in many cases you can find units that are far newer and have less milege on them. Even if they have the same mileage - chances are good that because they are stronger - they will run longer in lower torque application. Just my personal experience - but the R200's I've ran - all ran with far less noise in the cabin. For many reasons I'd take an R200 over an R180 every time for other than a single purpose race car - and even then the type of race would be considered. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Shane: Good to have you here - that Cartech Turbo-kit is a rare set-up. I haven't seen one on a Z in decades... Enjoy the project... Carl B.

Hi Arne: Was any thought given to using a static cling vinyl - very easy to install and it stays were you put it, until you pull it off. I've had static cling vinyl signs on the sides of my car at 100mph+, and the IZCC Decals have never come loose on the inside of the glass. just a thought... but the "new" adhesive seems to be somewhat of a problem. Nonetheless - the new one's look great - and I really didn't care if they were "exactly" like the originals anyway. Keep at it... Carl B.

Thanks Adrian - I understand now. kind regards, Carl

Hi Guys: I'm a little confused by the use of a couple terms - could be something lost in translation. As I understand the definitions of the terms: Chassis Number - - the serial number stamped into the body of the car, usually in sequential order that identifies that unique unit. Such as 00001, 00002, 00003...... Vehicle Identification Number {VIN} - - The series of letters and numbers that identify the completed vehicle. Such as HLS30 00006, HLS30 00007, HLS30 00008..... H = 2.4L engine L = Left Hand Drive S30 = 2 door sports coupe 00006 the chassis that car was built on. Carnee/Carnet - - Japanese carnet registration number as Alan defined it - in effect the Japanese license plate number for identification of a specific car - which could have also had a License Plate issued by the country within which it was being operated. So the Carnet ie the Japanese registration and the license plate could be transferred from one car to another - - and one car could have had more than one Carnet Number, depending on what Country it was registered for road use at what point in time. However the VIN and its included Chassis Number were unique to a specific car. {Unless a car was completely rebuilt from others - and only one VIN was retained to identify it } Adrian - - are you indicating that 1/1970 240z HLS30-1639 8/1970 240z HLS30-7996 8/1970 240z HLS30-7998 8/1970 240z HLS30-8449 Are the VIN's of the 4 LHD cars that were "Works Rally Cars" ? Or are they cars that you presently own? From an earlier thread - #7996 was identified as TKS 33 SA 987 {71 Monte Carlo Rally}. Thanks, Carl B.

Hi Alan: Thanks for the explanation. Yes - I take your point. I too was frustrated by that and a few other elements of "the story". It seems to always be so:stupid: I guess my question had more to do with understanding the term "public record" in the context of its use in Japan. Our public records start, in each individual State when it comes to automobile titles and registrations of license plates. All of these "Public Records" used to be open to the public - and which are now closed due to Federal Privacy Laws passed some years ago. FWIW, Carl B.

76 Factory Service Manual - in really good condition - $75.00 isn't out of the question - and in Perfect Condition $125.00.... All depends on having two people that need one - on E-Bay at the same time. Wait long enough.. and you can pick them up for $35.00. Most likely "switch" or both your high beams are burned out. A relay will usually cause one side or the other {left/right} to go out. FWIW, Carl B.

The refresh of my Blue 72 - strip the body, replace the entire rear tail light panel and repaint - about six months. My neighbor did it in his garage - and it was a beautiful job. The refresh of my White 72 - strip the body, fix door dings etc and repaint the entire car - about two months. This was a shop that did only Custom & Collector Cars - no collision work. The repair of my White 72 - I bent the hood, Left Front Fender, bumper, lower finisher panels...Yeiks!! Replaced every part with NOS parts, stripped and refinished the entire car to assure matching paint - - with all delays receiving parts - this took about 4 months. The BRE Z - body shop time only - strip the body, fix a couple small dents, prime, 3 color paint job - -about three months. {the entire process of finding parts, rebuilding, restoring etc... about 4 years..but I enjoyed every minute of it} FWIW, Carl B.

Hi bigjohnson: I believe you really have an L20A or L20E {fuel injected} not an L20. So when you are looking for parts, gaskets etc - make sure you specify L20A or L20E. You should be able to get many if not most of the parts from the Nissan Parts Dept. Nonetheless - if you want to build a stroker, start with a good L28, you should be able to find one fairly inexpensively. Put the L20A / L20E on e-bay, you might find a buyer for it. good luck, Carl B.