Carl Beck

Personally I always like the "Datsun/Ferrari" catalogs. ;-)

How did you do that? The piston will be at TDC and the timing mark will be on "0" on both the compression and exhaust stroke. So you have to also assure that your #1 cylinder is on the "compression" stroke. You do that by looking at the position of the intake/exhaust cam lobs. They should be pointing more or less UP such that the valves are CLOSED. Keep in mind that if your #1 cylinder is actually on the exhaust stoke - the rotor in the distributor will be pointing 180 degrees opposite the #1 plug. {just as it was before} I'm sure you knew that - but just for those following along. Very important to confirm the compression stroke. FWIW, Carl

I'd pull one lug from each rear wheel - and check to see that they are the same length. If you use too long a lug on an aluminum wheel it will hit the rear drum before it actually clamps the wheel to the hub/drum. Better to be sure.. FWIW, Carl B.

Have just the headlight buckets been changed? Most of the cars with them have fiberglass fenders as well. Just curious.. Carl B.

I'll add that BSR was at the time the only racing shop providing the Torsen/Gleason mechanical limited slip differential for the R200. Jason at BSR installed one for me and satup my R200 - that was around 1975 and it's been perfect ever since. The BSR Team were always friendly, indeed gracious to the fan's at the track as well. Neat group of guys. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Carl: Can't you use the aluminum one's as plugs with which molds can be made? I'd think that is what they are for - I doubt that they would last very long when used as a clip - aluminum doesn't flex very well... Check with a plastics molding company in your area - with the aluminum models, it should be pretty inexpensive to have them recreated in something like nylon.. FWIW, Carl B.

That is most likely because WD-40 is not really a penetrating oil. Get some ATF and mix it 50/50 with Acetone. Use that for a couple days..and let it soak into the treaded area. You may have to apply small amounts all around the threaded area a couple times a day.. but once it gets down into the theads it will not only break the bond of rust, it will lubricate the threads..so the part doesn't seeze up once it starts moving.. The shaft on a flat blade screwdrive, will flex when you try to use it like a chisel - and that flex will absorb to much of the needed force. Likewise using a steel hammer much of the needed force is absorbed in the bounce-back. Using the righ tools matters..

Hi EDDIE-Z The 240Z will be a COMPLETELY different automobile. While it's very clean, elegant, classic and sensuous body always attracts, driving one is even more enjoyable in the right climate. IMHO - the right climate is anything below 80 degrees F. Above that, there really is no A/C that will compare to any 90+ automobile. Again, IMHO the 240Z is strictly a Windows Down vehicle, unless it is time to use the heater/defroster. With the windows up - you still have a lot of wind noise caused by the door/window frames leaking air... Of course you have to assure that all the rear hatch seals and tail light seals and body seam seals are air tight... otherwise you can get exhaust gas in the passenger cabin. All things considered - even today - if I had to drive across America {some 3,500 miles}, I still rather do it in a Datsun 240Z than any other car made today. Show it an open freeway or a good secondary highway and it will eat up the miles faster than you can count them.. The trip in a 240Z is far more fun than the destination. You may miss a lot of things about that Escort... but you'll never be unhappy with your decision to get the 240Z. good luck, Carl B.

Doesn't look like a major problem. First - soak the threaded area down with a good penetrating oil. Let that work for a day, then soak it down again and let that work for a day, then soak it down again. DO NOT RUSH THIS.. let the chemicals in the penetrating oil WORK Second - using a chisel with a blade about 1/2 inch wide and brass hammer..apply the chisel at about a 45 degree angle, such that you are pushing what remains of the gland nut counter-clockwise and tap the chisel fairly hard with the brass hammer. Do this at different points around the gland nut. If you have used a really good penetrating oil {Kano Lab's Kroil} and if you have let it work - the gland nut should break loose. If it doesn't, after a few good firm smacks with the brass hammer.. Then the next step is necessary. Heat the strut tube around the area where the threads are. Actually, you can do that just before you use the chisel in the steps above, but I don't do it unless I find that it is necessary. If you don't have a brass hammer - go to Harbor Freight and buy one. A brass hammer will not bounce back from when you hit the chisel, and it will deliver the most force to the chisel. Sometimes I use a pointed Punch instead of a chisel.. depends on which gives the best purchase on the material at hand.. good luck

Houston area -you should be able to find a buyer at $4,500.00 to $5,500.00. Body mod's like the wheel flairs, molded rear spoiler and 280 Hood really hurt the resale value of a 240Z. What were you thinking price wise? Carl B.

Hi Greg: Great driving and super effort. Even a 2nd place finish in that field would have been a significant accomplishment in a 40 year old car. Nonetheless - it is the "SafeRacer" SCCA National Racing Series - and the track rules are intended to keep everyone "safe"... Does this remind anyone else of a certain Tran/Am championship race many many years ago? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: Yes - he said he had talked to you and you sent him to me. We talked for about 1/2 hour - a real "car guy" and it was great meeting him. I told him to send detail pictures - and I'd be glad to pass the infor along to anyone interested. It is interesting to contrast that car with the one that originated this thread... the one kept in the garage is sure in a lot better shape.. but still not worth anything close to the asking price.. as it sit now..

Hi Alan: I am sorry - too many other things going on around here - and I lost track. I had actually started a response... and got distracted.. It's hurricane season here, I have a daughter we just got off to Rome so was working the digital communication pathways for her Mother to keep in touch... etc etc... According to Mr. Dunn, that is what Nissan contracted with his firm to produce. They had it printed on the invitations sent to the media types. So that is thus what the event was called in some of the newspaper reports. Interesting to note that "Nissan Motor Co. Ltd." was credited with showing and producing the car. No question that people here knew Nissan was the producer of DATSUN cars/trucks. Not that I have found so far. That however is not at all uncommon for the time. The Press Release Kits provided by Nissan and prepared by the Public Relations Companies Nissan hires - contain high quality photographs showing the car in its best views - so that the newspapers don't have to send their own Photographers, nor wait for film processing and printing. All this costs the papers money - so the Public Relations Companies provide photo's with the hope that the newspapers will use them and thus provide the free Publicity. Not to mention UPI, AP and Rutgers wire services in New York putting it on the news wires. In which case it would have been flashed around the world. Publicity is what all the New Model Introductions and Car Show's are all about.. The amount of Free Advertising they get reaching millions of people - has to exceed the costs of the events. Personally I believe - - There is little doubt that the timing of these events was completely thought-out by Nissan Motor Co. Ltd. top management, so that the most Publicity would be generated in the markets they wanted to reach. If you look back though the major US Automotive Magazines say between 1960 and 1968 {which we have done when researching our friend Mr. Goertz}, you find that most of the coverage of International Automobile Shows, outside the US - went to Europe at the time {and Goertz was one of the people often interviewed, or who made comments on the new models for the Magazines located in NY or Detroit} . It is hard to find any coverage at all of the Tokyo Motor Shows prior to 1970. The Automotive Magazines did cover single new models from Japan that were going on sale here.. but usually they were Road Tests done months after the model went on sale. {of course all that changed after the introduction of the 240Z}. Nissan must have spent tens of thousands of dollars on their International Preview of the Datsun 240Z. {indeed in todays money that would be more like hundreds of thousands of dollars}. Air lifting cars, chartering private airliners for Press people, renting conference/display space in the most exclusive/expensive hotels, developing and distributing Press Release Kits and bringing Director level personnel from Japan. With the Dollar/Yen exchange rate at the time - it must have cost them 20x the cost of display at Tokyo. Back in the day so to speak - Newspapers love to be First With The NEWS... Reporters like getting the most current stories, and getting face time with top executives from the Auto Industry. Personal interviews result in something to "report". So from a Publicity perspective - introducing the Datsun 240Z first in the US resulted in the most media coverage and most Publicity in North America. Indeed - Don Shannon covered the Tokyo Motor Show for the L.A. Times. Japanese cars were popular in California at that time - if not in the entire US... His lead-in line for Oct. 24th was "Few Surprises Seen at Tokyo Motor Show". In the body of the article, Don did mention the new Fairlady, but felt that it's $1,850,000.00 {$5,100.00 USD} price tag would be too high to sell well in Japan. Given the price - I'd guess he was talking about the Z432. FWIW, Carl B.

The Parts List shows 63120-P9000 is for the Turbo . See Parts Diagram... E-Mail me at: beck@becksystems.com I can verify the part number with a Nissan Parts Manager and give you order information. BTW - here is a picture of the first 280ZX Tubo to arrive in Germany. regards, Carl

Funny... I know of another 72 Z with an original 19K+ miles. {I'll paraphrase the story...it's mostly correct but not exact years etc} A man bought the car in 72 and drove it for a couple years, then parked it in the garage and used another car as his daily driver. Some 10 years later, he passed away, the car had 19K+ original miles. His wife put the Z outside in California, with a car cover on it, so she could get her car in the garage.. and it sat there for about 30 years. The car cover rotted and fell off.. and it sat there. The lady passed away and her relatives cleaned the house out, sold the car and sold the house... Through a friend of a friend kind of deal - the present owner bought the car, trailer'ed it to his storage facility with the intention of some day restoring it. It sat there for a couple of years.. His buddies at the storage facility cleaned the carb's out, drained the gas tank and put fresh gas in, drained the oil/water and replaced with fresh liquids.. and got it running.. He then changed the clutch master and slave and got it to the point that it can be moved under it's own power... but no brakes {rear wheel cylinders had froze.. so they were freed, but not repaired.. no brakes at this point - but can be stopped with the E-brake} Paint is SHOT... Dash is cracked.. and of course everything rubber in the car would need to be replaced. Most likely the carpet is dry rotted as well. The rest of the interior is in good shape.. the paint under the hood, in the door jambs and interior is in good shape... The body is straight, no rust with only a couple small door dings.. the car sits with the same wire-basket wheels that it came from the dealership with.. Silver, 4spd. One the one hand - with a little sweat equity and maybe $10K for paint/body {repaint the top surfaces} and mechanical parts..this might be a very decent car. {I say "might" because we really don't know if that engine was properly taken out of its 30 year sleep}. On the other hand - it would be a good car for a complete and proper Restoration.. In that case figure something closer to at least $20K plus the price of the car.. The car is located in California, you'll have to bring a trailer ... what is your best cash offer?

Absolutely!! There has been nothing better since..

Cheap repaint? - Walk away..

YES - Congrats on the WIN Greg!! Very Impressive! btw - Mark I can't get that URL to download.. Carl B.

Hi Guys: I believe that Kats showed us pictures of both types - along with part numbers - in a discussion several years ago. He may still have the pictures on his Web Site somewhere. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Kats: Some updates since you first started this Thread. Re- your item #8: Oct. 22nd, 1969 was the date that Nissan Motors Ltd. held its International Preview of the Datsun 240Z in New York, NY. According to Mr. Dunn - who headed the PR Firm that handled the arrangements at the time -The International Preview {planned weeks in advance} was held in New York instead of the more usual US automobile model introductions held in Detroit - - because Nissan did not want to seem disrespectful of the U.S. Auto Industry. {by introducing an import car in the heart of the US Auto Industry aka Detroit } The Datsun 240Z was flown in from Japan the week before, so the display could be built in the Grand Ballroom of the hotel. The introduction of the Datsun 240Z was made by Mr. M. Okuma, Managing Director of Nissan Motor Co. Ltd., Export Division, accompanied by Mr. Y. Katayama, President of Nissan Motor Corp. in U.S.A. and Mr. S. Kawazoe, Vice President of Nissan Motor Corp. in U.S.A.. Because most of the automotive reporters at the time were located in Detroit, Nissan chartered a plane to bring the Detroit media to New York for the event and to return them home after. After the International Preview in NY - the 240Z was flown to L.A. - where it made it's West Coast Debut the 24th of Oct. 1969 at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Hollywood. {the Hotel used in the movie Pretty Woman and many others} If you look at the Picture with your #9 press kit - you can see that is the car used on the earliest 1970 Datsun Full Line brochure, as well as on the cover and in the article of R&T Jan. 70 issue. Note the white side wall tires. That is HLS30 00008 a Silver Z. The photo's in your Item #8 - Press Kit seemed to have been used in the Newspaper reports the following day - 23 Oct. 1969. N.Y.Times 23, Oct. 69 - "Datsun Enters the Middle-Priced Sports Car Market" L.A. Times 23 Oct. 69 - "New Sports Car Gets 1970 Datsun Spotlight" For example: the lead paragraphs read: N.Y.Times 23, Oct. 69 - Datsun Enters the Middle-Priced Sports Car Market "Nissan Motor Company Ltd., which has built it reputation on economy cars, is making a determined bid for the middle-priced sports car market. The company showed its Datsun 240Z sports car at it international preview yesterday at the Pierre Hotel. The car is expected to be competitive with Detroit-built sports-type of cars and European sports cars."..... L.A. Times 23 Oct. 69 - New Sports Car Gets 1970 Datsun Spotlight "A new high performance sports car, aimed directly at such American competition as Buick's Opel GT and American Motors Corp's AMX, highlights the 1970 model lineup of the Japanese built Datsun. Nissan Motor Co. Japan's second largest auto maker and producer of the Datsun line, announced Wednesday that it will offer the 240Z sports car as its "answer to the high performance personal car market"..... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Alexander: Interesting - - For the Right Side of the 280ZX - the Parts Catalog lists two Part Numbers -One from 07/78 forward and a different one for 12/80 and forward. For the Left Side however - there is only one Part Number given - applied from 07/78 forward. Did Nissan actually change only the Right Side panel? http://nissanparts.cc <pre> Part # Description List Unit Price Price 62612-P9000 Apron Side R $138.10 $110.20 $110.20 62613-P7100 Panel Apron Lh $134.00 $106.93 $106.93 </pre> You might want to try to order them via your Local Nissan Dealer. That way you might save on shipping and handling charges. It looks like the above are still good Part Numbers. See diagram below... FWIW, Carl B.

If it was a stock 77 4/5 spd. - it's an R200 If it was a stock 77 A/T - it's an R180 FWIW, Carl B.

Drain are refill with 1.3 liter if it's an R200. You NEVER fill to the breather!! You fill to the level of the bottom of the "fill" plug. That is about the middle way between top and bottom. You can use the breather to put 1.3 Liters in, if you can't get the fill plug to come out... FWIW, Carl B.

To get that MSA retractor out of the way - I would make two steel plates about 1/16" thick and 3" x 4" wide/tall. Then drill holes for small bolts at the corners in each pair. Then bolt them to each side of the bulkhead supporting the rear deck area... ie. the upright area behind the seats. You can put one inside the tool pocket and the other on the outside or even under the vinyl covering. Once you have them bolted in place - just drill a hole for the bolt that holds the retractor in place. That would put the retractor much higher up and provide a strong mounting point. FWIW, Carl B

True - DOT 5 will not harm the paint - it cleans off easily. DOT 3/5 Will.. FWIW, Carl B.