Carl Beck

From my notes of an earlier discussion = Ken P. reported Feb 06: Eibach: Front 69-183 (prog) / Rear 86-212(prog) with a 1" drop. FWIW, Carl B.

Move the lower spring perch up or down the strut about 1 inche - and all 7" inches of "Installed Height" goes up or down with it. That is because the upper spring seat is not fixed... Perch height directly effects the ride height of the car because the upper spring seat is fixed to the body. Also - a stiffer spring will compress less in lenght with the same load as a softer spring.. so I wouldn't put too much faith in looking at the "installed lenght" given. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't think Wurth makes a paintable undercoating. Most of their products that I've seen are NON-Paintable For a restored 240Z - I'd want to use something like 3M paintable underbody coating or stone guard. Then apply the body color over that. The Z's were body color on the undercarriage from the factory - so I would want to put it back to that. Applying a black undercoat to the underbody - can make the car much harder to resell if the need ever arises. Too many people use black undercoatings to cover up rust or bad repairs - and seeing it on a Z can turn people off to buying.. It is not uncommon to see wheel wells "blacked out"... FWIW, Carl B.

I doubt that g35parts.com has Parts Counter Personel that actually have owned, restored and driven 240Z's. Courtesy is the only place I've found that does.. David House at Courtesy is excellent and very knowledgeable - not to mention a former 240Z owner. BTW - the Dealers depend on the Nissan Parts System for parts that are not in their inventory. So it isn't really a matter of a Dealer Data Base not being up to date. FWIW, Carl B.

In 1968 BRE prepared a Datsun Pickup for Mary McGee to run at the Baja. In addition to their own 510. Conner was also running a Datsun Pickup at the Baja in 1973 - SIMONIZ as a sponsor. Lots of Datsuns ran the Baja in the last 60's and early 70's. FWIW, Carl B.

I hope that you are planing on treating the inside of the Frame Rails, the dog legs, inside the doors etc - to kill and prevent rust. After 40 years they are all rusting from the inside out...

Try Banzai Motorworks: Banzai Motorworks Motorsports Auto Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home Black Dragon Black Dragon Automotive - Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX Auto Parts and Accessories They can supply some OEM parts as well as good reproductions in many cases. FWIW, Carl B.

Also - many of the other suppliers will simply put the part on "Back-Order" rather than cancel the order. Then you wind up waiting months to find out that it is never coming in. We have found that Nissan Canada is a different parts distribution system - in the past they have been able to order parts from Japan -that the US Nissan Parts System would not order from Japan - even if the parts were still available in Japan. Frankly it is amazing that any parts for a 40 Plus year old car are still avaliable. Good luck, Carl B.

Most certainly - make it Clearwater!! Then you can buy a Winter Home here as well.. Good luck... Carl B.

Me too - I worked on the Space Shuttle program and I miss them. Of course they flew about three times as long as originally intended. We supplied the Main Engine Controllers and Flight Control Systems for the Shuttles. Did you work Space Station as well?

I know what you mean -- I've gone out to the garage to check on something, then when I got there I had forgotten what I went for in the first place - Sorry to hear about the original engine - throwing a rod is not something we hear about too often. But then, it's not like you don't already have a good replacement... Great looking Z... FWIW, Carl B.

I should think that almost any Automotive Electric Shop that rebuilds starters and alternators could rebuilt it for you. Should be some in your local area. Just be sure to explain clearly how you want it to look when its done - make sure they understand you are rebuilding it for a correct restoration.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Frank: HLS30 15653 was last reported as having a Date Of Manufacturer of 12/70, with Original Engine serial number L24-021132. Your signature line still shows 10/70. Does the Data Plate on the drivers door jamb now show 10/70?

Agreed! If you want to keep the "stock" or "original" look of your radiator - just have it re-cored with the 3 or 4 row core, keeping your original top tank with the finger guard and bottom tank. All that said - the most effective items I've found to reduce engine operating temps. here in Florida are; 1) changing to synthetic oil and 2) adding Redline "Water Wetter" to the coolant. FWIW, Carl B.

If your radiator has the little "finger guard" or "safety guard" it is most likely the original radiator. Most the after market replacements don't have them. As I recall Nissan called it a "splash guard", which might give some indication of it's original purpose. It didn't seem to provide any noticable effect on cooling on any of the 240Z's I have them on. No - you don't need it for everyday driving. FWIW, Carl B.

No the 72's did not come with the fan shroud. I ordered mine over the Parts Counter when I installed the Dealer A/C kit in 72. They do aid a bit in relation to engine cooling during low speed operation. FWIW, Carl B.

I was about to ask Frank to check the Date Of Manufacture - Looks like #15368 should be 12/70. I could understand it being built a month or two later - but very odd to have one number two months earlier than the normal sequence. #15189 is a Vintage Z with build date of 11/70... the highest VIN so far for 11/70.. Nonetheless very nice looking Z!! FWIW, Carl B.

Read this Post.... then stop by Home Depot and pick up the needed parts.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46013.html Pull the drive shaft and cap the end of the tranny off....good to go..

Neat Idea. I use the plastic caps from certain rattle can's - some are the exact size to slide into the tail shaft housing. I like your idea better.. makes a nice seal.. thanks' Carl B.

Hi Gus: Time for a progress report... FWIW, Carl B.

For the fender - Get a gallon of Mineral Spirits or Kerosine.... or for that small an area get a gallon of Diesel Fuel {which is about the same as Kerosine}... Soak the undercoating down and scrub it with a ScotchBrite Pad - it will wash right off. FWIW, Carl B.

Having pulled the center dash finisher, the heater control panel, the heater & blower motor out last week - I disassembled, cleaned, sanded, Ospho'd then primed & painted the heater box assembly. Today I'll be putting new seals in and re-assembling it. Heater core and heater control valve are in excellent condition!! Now all I have to do is find the new heater hoses I bought last year!

I've seen a couple of them - they were well made. One owner here in Clearwater had one, haven't seen him in quite a few years. As I recall there was an article about them in one of the old Z Car Club Of America newsletters. Nonetheless they are rare today... There was also another manufacturer that offered a fiberglass bucket seat arrangement that fit in the same way. FWIW, Carl B.

Zedyone_kenobi I think you are having waaay to much fun with this!! I'd also guess that by now you have spent at least as much on your Z as you originally paid for it. Another sign of serious addiction... Next step - - individual throttle bodies with F.I.... Yes, the path you have chosen always leads to a next step... When you run out of things to do to your Z - - - - you'll be looking for a 911 next... At any rate -keep up the good reports. FWIW, Carl B.

The hassle of towing it home - might be far less than the hassle of smelling your entire wiring harness burn up on the road. When a fusible link melts down - it is usually, not always but usually something seriously wrong in the electrical system. Individual fuses blow on the branch circuits with minor shorts or overloads caused by resistance/corrosion. The fusible links blow more or less as a last resort to save the entire wiring harness. Replacing the fusible link without first finding what caused it to blow in the first place - can be very risky. Personally I'd buy the car if I wanted it - I'd tow it home, then take my time to go over the electrical system with the proper test equipment. Might save a lot of additional headaches that way... FWIW, Carl B.