Carl Beck

I'm pretty sure that the round snap-on covers were only used on the 240Z. Different style were used on the 260Z. Don't know about all the 280Z's - but they did not use the 240Z type. Yes they changed with the 260Z and were used in the 75/76 280Z. Then they chaged again I believe for 77/78. I don't know about the demad for the 260Z/280Z, but there seems to be plenty of them out there in pretty good condition. - but I do know that it is pretty hard to find any good 240Z radio face plates - that could be used in a proper restoration. The screw holes have been broken in most - or they have been cut/modified for newer radios to be installed. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: Thanks - I may have to do that - The SLK is so smooth it is easy to creep up beyond 80 mph on the freeways - and not notice the speed. Also just too much fun to kick the supercharger in around 50/60 mph and let're rip up past 100.. Not that the car is so fast - just fun for a 2.3L.. Really kind of tempting to drop a SBC in it aka Brabas - That Bronco looks amazing - very rarely see any of the small Bronco's offered for sale, unless they are total disasters. Maybe a "Big Oly" replica in the future to go with it?

All of the slotted mag.'s that I have had - use a shanked lug nut {as LeonV mentioned}. With all four shanked lug nuts in place - but loosened a couple of threads on the STUD - you should not be able to move the wheel up/down nor side to side. If you can - that wheel is shot, and needs to be replaced. OR the lug nuts themselves are worn and do not fit tightly in the holes. Or the shank is way too short for the wheel. You want to make sure that the shanked lug nuts you are using - are slightly shorter than the thickness of the material in the center of the wheel. That is to say they should not protrude past the back or inside surface of the wheel. The slotted mags do not use any of these types of lug nuts nor bolts. There may be an exception for "Uni-Lug" type wheels - but I don't see that in your case. If you have a Stock Spare Tire/Wheel - look at the holes for the Studs in that wheel, and look at the set of stock lug nuts if you have them. That is an example of the Conical / Tapered arrangement shown in the diagram. By the way - because the spare tire/wheel are usually the "stock" type - you need to be sure to carry a stock set of lug nuts in the Z - if you need to use the spare. Your lug nuts should look like theses - Yes/No? The washer used with these is not counter sank in the surface of the wheel like the "Flat Type" you show. FWIW, Carl B.

Rear Shock Tower Covers - NLA and now seeing "asking" prices of $50.00 each for NOS 240Z-280Z AM/FM radio face plates are different and not interchangable FWIW, Carl B.

Now that I look at them more closely. Are they really "correct"? I don't know - but they are not exactly the same as pictured in the 1st Post to this thread. Some reproduced items are very hard to distinguish from the originals. The caps at Motorsports may be from the OEM - but they aren't exactly like the originals supplied at the time, so it would be easy to tell the difference.. FWIW, Carl B.

Well - it is a Good News / Bad News situation. The Good News is that the valve caps are available for any one that wants/needs them. The Bad News is that FUN of having a set, or finding a set when they were hard to find - is no longer. FWIW, Carl B.

Something new to my garage. I was looking for something interesting and fun to own. It needed to have modern A/C for use here in Florida. I also wanted something that I could add to my Classic Car Policy. After looking at several alternatives - I found this 1999 Mercedes-Benz SLK 230. Purchased from its original owner. Garage kept with 50K documented miles. Super clean and in "as new" running condition. Everything works except the Factory Original Cell Phone.. {none of the Cell Carriers around here offer analog service} The SLK is about the same overall size as a 240Z. Slightly heavier but with a bit more torque and HP from its 2.3L Supercharged DOHC I-4. Performance stock for stock, is a bit better than the 240Z. A roadster with a retractable hard top - it gives me the best of both worlds. Top down - a fun roadster to enjoy when the weather allows. Hard top up - a well insulated coupe with really great A/C!. Also a very nice group of SLK Enthusiast to enjoy the car with - here in the Florida SLK Club. If you want to see more of it - I put some pictures on my Web Page.. See: Mecerdes Benz SLK 230 Sport FWIW, Carl B.

Auction Ended 2 June - winning bid $5K. If you bought it for $5K - I don't see where you could have gone too far wrong. I don't like the "custom" front end treatment but that is a matter of personal taste. If someone is looking for a Classic Z Car - then my usually advice is to find the cleanest, lowest mileage, all original, complete and pure Stock car you can afford. If you are just lookging for a Z to drive and enjoy - I think this one might be good for that use. It is all about getting the most value for your money. You just don't want to pay Classic Car prices for drivers nor cars with extensive modifications. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - Jim Lee. #00158 is recorded on our list of remaining 1969 Production Datsun 240Z's, but it is not listed on "the Classic Z Car Register", as Jim never sent in the full information. Nonetheless, Paul had told me about the car many years ago. Good to see some pictures of it and get the update! thanks, Carl B.

The original vinyl had jute padding under it - as I recall it was about 1/2 thick. You'll have to replace it with some type of padding - so that the new vinyl appears smooth/flat without wrinkles/creases etc. Also it is important for heat/sound insulation. Fat Mat by itself will be too thin.. Motorsports Auto used to sell the jute padding.. you might want to check with them.. FWIW Carl B.

That looks like a 2+2 and it is NOT a 50th AE {no matter if someone stuck an emblem on it or not} . Even with 66K miles - and in excellent shape - he will have a hard time finding a buyer at $6500.00 today...

If you haven't found one - according to my latest inventory I have it. Send me a PM or E-Mail and I'll confirm.. I don't recall any of them having a "second bend".. beck@becksystems.com BTW - the drawing of the fuel tank - in the Parts Manual is incorrect. That 180 degree bend goes on the fuel tank - because that vent opens to the Left side of the car {not as shown opening to the Right side} So you need that formed hose to make the 180 degree turn without kinking.. FWIW, Carl B.

see next post - server delay FWIW, Carl B.

Great find! I'm sure you will enjoy it as well as the expanded community of enthusiast that surround it. Something to fill your time as you continue to look for that Patrol.. You usually find what you want - after you buy something else. So expect a Patrol in your near future. FWIW, Carl B.

That was a great deal. If you buy the Front sections - without the strut rod brace. Then buy the sections that go under the floorboards - you'll have $400.00 in one side. Plus then you have to cut/weld the strut rod braces in. I have an NOS pair - wouldn't let them go for anything less than $800.00. $455.00 is a Give Away price. FWIW, Carl B.

Look at the Tail Lights and the panels surrounding them. See Post #493 - - BSR 1977 - Tail Lights show 260/280Z Camel GT - Bob Sharp Datsun Z Camel GT Pace Car | eBay Motors Blog FWIW, Carl B.

That - and I have kept a record of every Datsun 240Z VIN that I have found to be still in existence since about the mid 80's... When you ask about the Series - I looked your VIN up on my list and I had a note there about it... FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - have them make it locally. They should be able to use your existing flange - but make sure they extend the new pipes up past the top of the flange - just as the original was made. This assures that the header pipe seals properly to the mating Exhaust Manifold. Without the small pipe extensions - it is easy to blow out the mating gasket if one of the three nuts works its way lose. Some muffler shops cut the old pipes off Near the existing flange, but below it - then weld new pipes down from there - the problem with doing that is - the old pipes left just below and just above the flange - blow out next if they are weak to begin with. So ask them if that price include complete removal and replacement of all the old pipe sections - if the old pipes have any weakness at all. An NOS 70-72 Exhaust Header Pipe - if you could find one for sale - could cost as much as $350.00 or more {271.5 Euro} here in the States. Good solid used one's can easily be $175.00 to $225.00 USD {135 to 174 Euro} Note - The 73 Exhaust Header Pipe will only work with the 73 Exhaust Manifold - although the Parts Catalog lists the 73 Part Number as Superceding the 70/72 Part Numbers - they are not interchangable. A good muffler shop Could "modify" a 73 Header Pipe - to replace a 70/72 Header Pipe. They would just have to extend the two pipes down about 4 or 5 more inches.. FWIW, Carl B.

Congrats Gary! By now I've seen a few of the BRZ's at the local Cars & Coffee.. First I was surprised that the car was bigger than I expected, based on the pictures I'd seen. Secondly - the healights/nose styling reminded me of the 370Z a bit.. Over-all a nice looking package - You'll have to keep us updated as you get a few miles driving in the Day-to-Day traffic and weekend fun.. FWIW, Carl B.

VIN HLS30 21000 or higher = Series II {up to HLS30 46000} Date of Mfg 02/71 or higher = Series II {into 09/71} FWIW, Carl B.

5/71 240Z HLS30-31564 :-) Steve Prefontaine's 240Z... FWIW, Carl B.

I have had one in my 72 Z since the mid 70's. I've always found it very useful. I also have one in good used condtion in case anyone else is looking for one. I'm thinking $50.00 plus shipping. FWIW, Carl B.

Glad things worked out for you.. Carl B.

"This listing was ended by the seller because the item is no longer available." Sold already? Or is the listing screwed up? Carl B.

Yea - what happened? I just sent it to friend in Switzerland..? $14K was a Fire Sale price - FWIW, Carl B.