Carl Beck

Well - it is a Good News / Bad News situation. The Good News is that the valve caps are available for any one that wants/needs them. The Bad News is that FUN of having a set, or finding a set when they were hard to find - is no longer. FWIW, Carl B.

Something new to my garage. I was looking for something interesting and fun to own. It needed to have modern A/C for use here in Florida. I also wanted something that I could add to my Classic Car Policy. After looking at several alternatives - I found this 1999 Mercedes-Benz SLK 230. Purchased from its original owner. Garage kept with 50K documented miles. Super clean and in "as new" running condition. Everything works except the Factory Original Cell Phone.. {none of the Cell Carriers around here offer analog service} The SLK is about the same overall size as a 240Z. Slightly heavier but with a bit more torque and HP from its 2.3L Supercharged DOHC I-4. Performance stock for stock, is a bit better than the 240Z. A roadster with a retractable hard top - it gives me the best of both worlds. Top down - a fun roadster to enjoy when the weather allows. Hard top up - a well insulated coupe with really great A/C!. Also a very nice group of SLK Enthusiast to enjoy the car with - here in the Florida SLK Club. If you want to see more of it - I put some pictures on my Web Page.. See: Mecerdes Benz SLK 230 Sport FWIW, Carl B.

Auction Ended 2 June - winning bid $5K. If you bought it for $5K - I don't see where you could have gone too far wrong. I don't like the "custom" front end treatment but that is a matter of personal taste. If someone is looking for a Classic Z Car - then my usually advice is to find the cleanest, lowest mileage, all original, complete and pure Stock car you can afford. If you are just lookging for a Z to drive and enjoy - I think this one might be good for that use. It is all about getting the most value for your money. You just don't want to pay Classic Car prices for drivers nor cars with extensive modifications. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - Jim Lee. #00158 is recorded on our list of remaining 1969 Production Datsun 240Z's, but it is not listed on "the Classic Z Car Register", as Jim never sent in the full information. Nonetheless, Paul had told me about the car many years ago. Good to see some pictures of it and get the update! thanks, Carl B.

The original vinyl had jute padding under it - as I recall it was about 1/2 thick. You'll have to replace it with some type of padding - so that the new vinyl appears smooth/flat without wrinkles/creases etc. Also it is important for heat/sound insulation. Fat Mat by itself will be too thin.. Motorsports Auto used to sell the jute padding.. you might want to check with them.. FWIW Carl B.

That looks like a 2+2 and it is NOT a 50th AE {no matter if someone stuck an emblem on it or not} . Even with 66K miles - and in excellent shape - he will have a hard time finding a buyer at $6500.00 today...

If you haven't found one - according to my latest inventory I have it. Send me a PM or E-Mail and I'll confirm.. I don't recall any of them having a "second bend".. beck@becksystems.com BTW - the drawing of the fuel tank - in the Parts Manual is incorrect. That 180 degree bend goes on the fuel tank - because that vent opens to the Left side of the car {not as shown opening to the Right side} So you need that formed hose to make the 180 degree turn without kinking.. FWIW, Carl B.

see next post - server delay FWIW, Carl B.

Great find! I'm sure you will enjoy it as well as the expanded community of enthusiast that surround it. Something to fill your time as you continue to look for that Patrol.. You usually find what you want - after you buy something else. So expect a Patrol in your near future. FWIW, Carl B.

That was a great deal. If you buy the Front sections - without the strut rod brace. Then buy the sections that go under the floorboards - you'll have $400.00 in one side. Plus then you have to cut/weld the strut rod braces in. I have an NOS pair - wouldn't let them go for anything less than $800.00. $455.00 is a Give Away price. FWIW, Carl B.

Look at the Tail Lights and the panels surrounding them. See Post #493 - - BSR 1977 - Tail Lights show 260/280Z Camel GT - Bob Sharp Datsun Z Camel GT Pace Car | eBay Motors Blog FWIW, Carl B.

That - and I have kept a record of every Datsun 240Z VIN that I have found to be still in existence since about the mid 80's... When you ask about the Series - I looked your VIN up on my list and I had a note there about it... FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - have them make it locally. They should be able to use your existing flange - but make sure they extend the new pipes up past the top of the flange - just as the original was made. This assures that the header pipe seals properly to the mating Exhaust Manifold. Without the small pipe extensions - it is easy to blow out the mating gasket if one of the three nuts works its way lose. Some muffler shops cut the old pipes off Near the existing flange, but below it - then weld new pipes down from there - the problem with doing that is - the old pipes left just below and just above the flange - blow out next if they are weak to begin with. So ask them if that price include complete removal and replacement of all the old pipe sections - if the old pipes have any weakness at all. An NOS 70-72 Exhaust Header Pipe - if you could find one for sale - could cost as much as $350.00 or more {271.5 Euro} here in the States. Good solid used one's can easily be $175.00 to $225.00 USD {135 to 174 Euro} Note - The 73 Exhaust Header Pipe will only work with the 73 Exhaust Manifold - although the Parts Catalog lists the 73 Part Number as Superceding the 70/72 Part Numbers - they are not interchangable. A good muffler shop Could "modify" a 73 Header Pipe - to replace a 70/72 Header Pipe. They would just have to extend the two pipes down about 4 or 5 more inches.. FWIW, Carl B.

Congrats Gary! By now I've seen a few of the BRZ's at the local Cars & Coffee.. First I was surprised that the car was bigger than I expected, based on the pictures I'd seen. Secondly - the healights/nose styling reminded me of the 370Z a bit.. Over-all a nice looking package - You'll have to keep us updated as you get a few miles driving in the Day-to-Day traffic and weekend fun.. FWIW, Carl B.

VIN HLS30 21000 or higher = Series II {up to HLS30 46000} Date of Mfg 02/71 or higher = Series II {into 09/71} FWIW, Carl B.

5/71 240Z HLS30-31564 :-) Steve Prefontaine's 240Z... FWIW, Carl B.

I have had one in my 72 Z since the mid 70's. I've always found it very useful. I also have one in good used condtion in case anyone else is looking for one. I'm thinking $50.00 plus shipping. FWIW, Carl B.

Glad things worked out for you.. Carl B.

"This listing was ended by the seller because the item is no longer available." Sold already? Or is the listing screwed up? Carl B.

Yea - what happened? I just sent it to friend in Switzerland..? $14K was a Fire Sale price - FWIW, Carl B.

SOLD for $11,499.00 - some one got a super deal. FWIW, Carl B.

As I recall - according to NGK - The Projected Tip was intended to keep the electrodes pushed farther into the combustion flame - and thus to keep the plug from fowling as easily. I would guess that with the L28E - the more precise air/fuel mixtures offered by Fuel Injection, along with the wider plug gaps ran with the electronic ignition - they didn't seem to think that the Projected Tip was necessary any longer. Personally - if the engine has 100K+ miles, and it is ran mostly in stop/go traffic - I'd still use the Projected Tip plugs. Likewise - the "R" resister plugs help keep engine ignition noise {electrical} at bay. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: The MiniLite statement has nothing to do with the condition nor safety of now 40+ year old magnesium wheels. Yes, it is still a winning "design". Yes, when first cast magnesium wheels are light weight and very strong. Most magnesium wheels are stamped or cast with their Date of Manufacture - there is a reason for that, and it is important to pay attention to it. Magnesium wheels are designed to meet a specified duty cycle and service life. What metals are alloyed with the magnesium, how the wheel is cast and or forged and machined, how the wheel is designed structurally all play a role in meeting the pre-defined duty cycle and service life requirements. If I had to guess, I would guess that the Minilite's you have and the American Racing Wheels that I have - were designed for competition use over a period of 5 full seasons or less. I would be interesting to see what warning labels if any, came on them when they were new. I did quite a bit of research when I was attempting to restore a set of American Racing Le Mans wheels for my BRE Z. Most of the information I trusted came from the guys in the Materials Lab where I worked. So take if for what it is worth. Magnesium hardens with age and it thus becomes more brittle over time. Within a defined high load impact a new magnesium wheel will actually flex or deform without failing {about three times as much as aluminum}. That same wheel twenty years later, given the same level of impact, may fracture, and that can cause a sudden and unexpected failure.. Then there are variables among/between different qualities of magnesium wheels. Cast or Forged there can be small voids in the original structures, and within these voids there can be corrosion taking place over time, which in turn can cause deep pitting. [the magnesium alloy billets used for Forged wheels can have the same problems as any castings - it is all about process control}. Magnesium wheels are porous - as anyone that runs them knows - they have to be coated to seal them, at least on the tire mounting surfaces to hold air for very long. They are also subject to rapid oxidation and corrosion when exposed to moisture. So moisture and air can penetrate deep into the metal. As the magnesium wheel ages, these corrosion pits both external and internal to wheel, can develop into fractures in the metal {somewhat like a chip in a windshield can develop into a crack}. While eddy current inspection can help identify these microscopic fractures on the external surface before they develop farther, it takes X-Ray inspection to find potential problems within the metal. All that said - I do have a set of 40+ year old mag's on the BRE Baja Z. They are there just for show, to roll the car on and off the trailer. I had them inspected {NDI Tech at the local Air Port Service Center} and picked the best 4 out of 8 wheels. Crazy as it may seem - I have driven the car at highway speeds on them as well - but I am well aware of their limits and the risk I am taking. I certainly would not do any of that on 40+ year old mags without having them professionally inspected, and found to be at least currently "solid". Nor would I sell any 40 year old magnesium wheels to anyone for other than "display" use. FWIW, Carl B.

$2500.00 for ONE wheel and used tire??? Yieks! I have a set of 4 wheels that look to be in better shape - - I'd sell all four for $2000.00 - maybe even less! FWIW, Carl B.

For your First Z - I would recommend either the Blue Z listed by madkaw, or the Red Z listed by JLPurcell. Both these guys know a lot about Z's... Both Z's look to be pretty good examples that you could drive and enjoy. If you are talking $10,000.00 to $15,000.00, then putting your money into a pretty Stock example makes far better sense to me. If you did want to resell it in the future - you would have a far better chance of getting most of your money back out of stock Z. I would have no interest in any of the first 3 you listed. For the most part they have been personally customized to the tastes and budgets of their previous owners. If you want a Street Mod or Custom Z and your going to spend that much money - then start with a far less expensive stock example, then make the way You Want it. That way at least you will know what has been done and that it has been done right. FWIW, Carl B.