Carl Beck

Most people in the Enthusiast Community are used to seeing/finding really nice drivers for $16K or less. Many of us have done full restorations and the truth is, most of the time we don't keep track of what we have actually spent. So when some seemingly high numbers show up - no one believes it. I think we are all going to have to get used to it. It always happens when very desirable cars from 40 years ago - finally see their numbers all but exhausted. What is left are Beaters and Parts Cars or Concours Winning Museum pieces. That or cars that are simply not for sale at any price approaching reasonable. That has already happened to all the Muscle Cars of the 60's, all but completely happened to the 67/69 Camaros and desirable 65 to 69 Mustangs - and there were Millions of them!. Want a really nice 64 Pontiac GTO? Yes, we may not see 240Z's bringing hundreds of thousands of dollars like some Muscle Cars, or Shelby Mustangs.. but on the other hand I think we are seeing the final phase of the typical market segmentation, that takes place with all Classic, Collectable and Special Interest Cars. Sooner than we want - if you want a Datsun 240Z you will only find fully restored or very highly refreshed examples or Beaters and Parts Cars. The low end for a really nice weekend driver - but not Museum Quality example, will be $20K to $25K and the higher end #1 cars will all be over $60k. $25K to $35K will get you a really nice #3 example or a really nice Street Mod.. Cars that just a few years earlier were selling for $18K ... Increasing demand with dwindling supply. Greatly increasing cost of need restoration parts. The need to do a far better job of metal work / body work and paint - to preserve the value of the car.. Fewer and fewer people will be half-assing refreshes.. It always goes that way if you have been around long enough to witness it.. I'm sounding very old here I know. I also agree with Jeff - a deal well be made off-line - and we won't know what was actually paid - unless it winds up in Jeff's garage. FWIW, Carl B.

In essence - a de-stroked L28. I think a couple members have done that. Carl B.

The entire article is complete nonsense. Most likely a good thing they don't take comments.. Carl B.

It didn't meet reserve at $30,100.00, surprised to see it back so soon. It isn't really as nice or well done at this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-orinignal-Datsun-240Z-Series-I-Totally-Restored-1970-Low-VIN-/231389268988?forcerrptr=true&hash=item35dfe00bfc&item=231389268988&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

I'm not finding an E1031…In the Nissan Motorsports Catalogs I see: 99996-E1032 L9 SALOM Camshaft 490 lift and 290 degrees - Reground on 109 degree lobe centers, requires 0.160" lash pads, retainers, competition valve springs and new rocker arms. 99996-E1036 L7 RALLY Camshaft. 475 lift and 270 degrees - eground on 109 degree lobe centers, requires 0.160" lash pads. I only checked four or five years for the Catalogs.. and there may have been very minor changes over the years. Nissan USA had local Cam Producers do the regrinds to Nissan's spec.'s - Thus the 99996 numbers. I've ran both the SALOM and RALLY regrinds in L24/L28's. For the street the RALLY cam gave a little more lower end power. you could feel it around 3000RPM. The SALOM cam didn't seem to wake up until you passed 4500RPM then came on more suddenly. Engines were running Nissan Flat Tops {euro spec with 2cc raised area} at about 9.5 to 9.8 compression. Triple Webers.. Ran with stock exhaust manifold and/or headers, didn't seem to matter. Oh - How Rare? Not really, several current cam producers can duplicate it, or sell you something better. FWIW, Carl B.

I wonder - could we find 2 or 3 Datsun 240Z's in equal condition today - that the owners are willing to sell for $20K to $25K ? I've had a couple guys looking for the past year - they haven't had any luck yet. They might be bidding on this car - I don't know. I know several guys that have these Z's - I don't know one willing to sell at that price. Granted, I wouldn't rate this Z as a #1 Condition example, but you might be able to bring it up to a low end #2 Condition example with a little more attention to detail and a little more work. The undercarriage would need significant work - big mistake to put that much into the car - and black out the undercarriage, and get black paint on everything. Fine for a driver, not so for a Museum Quality example. Still - if you started with a very solid and complete example - you'd be in that $12K today. Then duplicate the work done on this Z - and you would spend another $30K, if you did a lot of the work yourself. Send it to a professional Restoration shop - pay the $75.00 to $95.00 per hour for labor, plus the $125.00 per hour for mechanical work and you'd be writing a check for at least $70K in labor alone. Now add the current cost of all the NOS parts you'd need, plus body work and paint. Easy to get up to $90K SPENT... Someone in Europe or Japan might recognize a deal and be willing to buy ahead of the market.. I have no idea what the owner would take - but for anything under $45K today, I'd tell him to hold it another year. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike - thanks. That icon was so small I couldn't see what it was. Now that I know - I can use it. Code Mode works for me. You could? I guess I never tried that before. I was just taking this new S/W for a spin.. to learn how it was going to work - and provide feedback Great - thanks..

I agree - the VIN on the dash doesn't look right - Looks like it was made with a Label Machine - and it looks like someone put a 72 Dash and Center Console in the car. That or the VIN on the firewall doesn't match the dash? Wonder if it has the original Data Plate on the drivers door jam. The whole car looks pretty sketchy.. It certainly isn't a 1971 - has the 70 gas lid door.. FWIW, Carl B.

OK - see what I mean? I made a few edits to your original Post... I was able to increase the font size in the Reply Editor - I'll see if it shows up that way. FWIW, Carl B. Edit #1 cjb - - OK the font size of the quoted text was increased - - only it is still somewhat "grayed out"..

Here I tried to break the quoted text into blocks - like we used to be able to do. I'm afraid that inserting carriage returns doesn't stop the quoted text - - but allows you to edit it. Might not be a good thing.. Carl

Much Better font size and color. But will the quoted text be larger as well? In the Posts above it seems to still be very small and light. Carl B. First Edit: cub I guess my question was answered - in my own Post. Can you work on the quoted text size and color as well? Also I don't see the hypertext that used to lead and follow the quoted text. Is it possible to still break quoted text into two or more blocks; and comment on them individually? I'll try that next..

Hi Brian: What is the black spot/area on the hood? What are the two black spots on the front edge of the hood? Are these current pictures? or the ones from 7 years ago? Did you Post an Ad somewhere? thanks, Carl

I would recommend Option #4. If you have one person to help - pulling the dash is really a far easier and better way to go. Trust me - this is not something you want to do upside-down cramped up under the dash. Even if you take the passenger seat out, so you can get under there - It is no fun when you are 25 and shear frustration when you are 65+. Pull the dash, do a complete "refresh" job on everything under there - Do it all once and be done. Hire a young helper.. maybe you can find a local Z Car enthusiast near you. FWIW, Carl B. pushing 70...

I think that as you get older - you are ABLE to pay for higher quality and better service. With the disclaimer - - There is no longer the more or less direct correlation between Price and Quality, that there used to be several decades ago. Quality is defined by the Customer.

If you used the old one for 45 years - time to treat yourself to a new one. AMAZON or SEARS.. Sears.com FWIW, Carl B.

Who in their right mind would sell that Z for $2500.00? Expect family members to sue you - saying that their relative was out of his mind. That or Phil Spector will show up claiming it was his… looks like a real jewel.. Carl B.

Cheap Junk - comes from the "businesses" that buy it from the factory - and resell it in the retail market. High Quality - comes from the businesses that buy it from the factory - and resell it in the retail market. The truth is that an ever growing number of Americans make their purchase decisions, based not on the quality of the products - but upon the quality of the advertising generating sales. They make their purchasing decisions based on ease of purchase and price. Going to Home Depot is "ease of purchase". You can get everything you need in one location. In decades past you might have to go to the Hardware Store, the Lumber Yard, the Electrical Supply Company, the Plumbing Supply Company etc etc - - just to get one small home improvement project done. Going to Home Depot instead of Lowes - might be a decision between "ease of purchase" or "lower price". So Home Depot and Lowes are always looking for lower priced items, and they are always building stores in the same towns/locations. Bottom Line - it isn't Chinese Junk. As long as price remains the main element in purchasing. China is building their own Space Station. In my opinion the highest quality personal computers, smart phones and portable music players - Apples products are almost all made in china. Yes, up front they seem to cost a bit more - but everything I've bought from them has been very reliable and all the hardware has easily out lived the technical life of its software. Because Apple buys high quality Chinese manufactured products - and resells them in the retail market. Harbor Freight - plays both sides of the game. Much of what they sell is junk, some of what they sell is actually very high quality. For years now Harbor Freight's "US General" tool boxes have offered quality as good or better than other major manufacturers offerings - at half the price. This while old line, well known products were being made cheaper and cheaper - Sears Craftsman brand has all but destroyed itself by buying Chinese Cheap Junk - instead of buying much higher quality Chinese Products. Just like Japan before it - sooner or later - more and more businesses will start to buy high quality products from Chinese Manufacturing Plants - and resell them in the retail market in America. So if your fuel pump or security system are cheap junk - call it like it is - list the name of the company that is selling it. FWIW, Carl B.

Believe it or not - but that difference in R & L front wheels - was very common. Most people didn't notice it - until they went to a larger wheel/tire size.. Some of it could be adjusted out by shifting the lower finisher panels over a bit - but it was still there only to a lessor extent. Also agree - any car like this should be presented with clear pictures of the undercarriage. Although not really a Concours Restoration - it might check out to be a very nice 240Z - - but I'm not seeing anything close to $38K in todays market. With the minor issues - something closer to $20K might not be too bad.. {if the undercarriage holds up to inspection}. FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like a good ZCar for someone.

I've always used lacquer thinner.. Carl B.

I hope he sells them - it will make my set worth that much more… Although the Part number seems to be good - I wonder if there are really many more in Nissan's Stock. Carl B.

Your friend that does the body and paint work - did a really nice job on the floorpans. That's a real good friend to have when you undertake a project like this. Keep the photo's coming … Carl B.

Yes - as original equipment production in 5/71 had metal fans. However, given the reasons for the change to the lighter weight plastic fan's - It is a good idea to replace the metal fan's with the plastic one's for any street driven Z. The plastic fan might cost you a couple points in a Stock Class at a Judged Show…but it reduces the risk of early water pump failure - or damage to the radiator/hood etc if the metal fan breaks away.. FWIW, Carl B.

That also would still allow confusion - and both the Series I and Series II were produced in 1971. FWIW, Carl B.

Also keep in mind that it may not be the cap. I can be the seal between the tank filler neck and the cap. These filler necks get pretty brittle with age and they can crack as well at that interface.. this too can cause fuel spills right under the cap… FWIW, Carl B.