Carl Beck

Hummm..... I have it last reported for sale in Calif. - by Byron. At that time the original engine serial number was #2389 - but the car had #4642 installed. Pictures of the engine compartment indicated a later engine... Perhaps we need to see #2389's serial number on the block, in the car... to cler this up. FWIW, Carl B.

As for #464.... Then you would wind up FAR behind.... in the end. I don't believe that #464 has it's original engine... value is cut in half.... and it would be hard to resell for any thing other than a daily driver... Funny the ad. doesn't seem to mention that... FWIW, Carl B.

Eiji at Datsun Spirit was able to get rebuild kits for me, out of Japan. I don't know about getting new pistons... but you might give him a call. See: http://www.datsunspirit.com/ Good luck, Carl B.

Now that is really FUNNY - devious as hell .... but really funny... Carl B.

Mr. Keneto has one of the most stunning Street Mod 240-Z's I've ever seen. I spent an hour looking at every finely tuned detail on that car at the West Coast Nationals several years ago. The engineering, craftsmanship and detail work are all first class. I understand he has a 510 that is just as nice... FWIW, Carl B.

AZ-240z: The two "D" shaped washers you have - go on the fenders where they lift slightly to cross the radiator core support. (if you only have two of them -that is where they go). A lot of times you'll find them farther back, simply because the assembler had a hand full of them at the time (I'm guessing - no other rime no reason I can find) Many early cars also have hex-head bolts that have a low shoulder (look like bolts that have had the head ground down) - they were used in the headlight nacelles - so they didn't stick out and hit the hood before the hood hits the bump stops. This was because the manufacturing tolerances on the headlight sugar scoops / nacelles were pretty broad, and they vary in thickness. Just my take... Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

If you are looking at a 240-Z, or communicating with a seller - just look at the Data Plate on the Drivers Door Jam. It lists the VIN and Date of Manufacture for cars sold in North America. Nissan used 4 distinct series of numbers along a continuum to identify the various chassis/models being produced for the North American Market. Because various Sales, Production, Calendar Year vs Fiscal Year vs Model Year - reports from Nissan Motors differ, in their intent and methods of data gathering - below is the best information we have... as a result of actual data gathering from owners, reviewing the various Nissan documents and attempting to reconcile all the above. As time passes, we may find a few higher VIN's for any Series.. Series I, Oct 69 into Jan. 71 HLS30-00013 into HLS30 020438 (highest VIN reported to date) These cars were sold/titled as 1969, 1970 and/or 1971 Model Year Vehicles. Series II Jan. 71 into Sept. 71 HLS30-021001 into HLS30 043496 (highest VIN reported to date) All sold and titled as 1971 Model Year Vehicles Series III Sept. 71 into Aug. 72 HLS30-46001 into HLS30 100262 (highest VIN reported to date) All sold and titled as 1972 Model Year Vehicles Series IV Sept. 72 into Aug. 73 HLS30-120001 into HLS30 172767 (highest VIN reported to date) All sold and titled as 1973 Model Year Vehicles. Some details related to the various equipment changes are listed on the Z Car Home Page at: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E. The above is what I quoted - note it says clearly "not tearing down a car for sale here". I reinforced that by writing ... "We are talking about the car here..." Yet the main jest of your entire response to my Post - was about assigning unscrupulous motives to sellers. I think I understood what you were originally saying... thus no response to your Post. THEN: The Above statement brought my response: "Then a car comes up for sale - and so that we don't hurt our own financial interests - we are supposed to stop finding, and pointing out all the faults with the cars offered for sale?? ." To Which E replied: I think you are saying that's not what was said nor implied by YOU. I felt it was certainly implied in X-Ray's statement. I know that this has been a confusing thread... but I think you have confused my Post, with anything you originally wrote, and I believe that within your farther responses you are intermixing comments about the cars and comments about the sellers.... then farther compounding the discussion by assigning motives to the people that made comments... You did have a few clear statements - to which I agree. But I hasten to add - I said NOTHING about the sellers, nor the discussion related to the sellers motives.. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks - I'll find some and try it. Carl B.

I'm not so sure I do. Let me see if I understand this correctly. We are talking about the car here..... We are all here to discuss Z Cars, most of us already own one (or more) and have at least some hands on experience in the past year or two. (yes/no?) People that are interested in perhaps buying a Z - come here to gain information about them - and many times that results in them asking us - what should they look for, how much should they pay, what does it cost to refresh/restore or even "save one".... (yes/no?) Then a car comes up for sale - and so that we don't hurt our own financial interests - we are supposed to stop finding, and pointing out all the faults with the cars offered for sale?? We should refrain from warning potential buyers - ie. the people that might become a member of our group - ... we should refrain from pointing out the flaws and thus the additional expenses they might incur with any particular car being considered for purchase ... Sorry, but I see your logic as somewhat backwards.... We should be helping the new buyers get the best car they can - so that they keep them. They should be buying with their eyes wide open. We should also be holding seller's to a level of honesty in disclosure.... I don't believe that telling the truth in public - can hurt any of us in the end. There is also a huge difference in pointing out the flaws of any particular Z - and arguing about it's market value. I'll have to agree that many people here hold much lower opinions as to the market values of many of these cars - than the market actually seems to be telling us... FWIW, Carl B.

I have to disagree with Dave on this one as it relates to the headers. I haven't seen any independent dyno tests that show headers producing more power on a stock or street mod'ed engine, than the OEM exhaust manifold, when you hold everything else the same. In addition to better looks with the headers - you get more under hood heat, noise and usually bad fitting flanges on the cheaper headers. That usually leads to exhaust leaks, which also corrode and then blow out your studs. (cheaper being under $325.00) Cutting the stock exhaust pipe open at the "Y" and going to a larger diameter exhaust system, with a free flowing muffler will pick up between 12 and 15 HP. Leaving the top off the stock Air Cleaner will pick up about 5 HP. If your building a full race engine, and need to tune the exhaust header to specific RPM ranges... sure, go for it. Like the look of "headers" when the car is parked and the hood is up - sure, go for it. Want less long term hassle, less nose in the cabin while cruising, less heat under the intake manifold/carbs, less heat under the hood and against the firewell - keep the OEM exhaust manifold. FWIW, Carl B.

As far as I know - it has to be ordered on-line from Kano Labs. But it's worth the wait, nothing else compares here in the U.S. I've done side by side comparisons with several other types - nothing comes close. FWIW, Carl B.

Personally, I was never able to get the fittings out - with any type of Penetrating oil - until I started using Kroil... With Kroil (Aero Kroil) they simply break free and turn out. http://kanolabs.com FWIW, Carl B.

Your Local Nissan Parts Dept. The OEM plug wires. FWIW, Carl B.

The DATSUN RACING JACKET was designed by Peter Brock and the BRE Racing Team all wore them. They were in turn sold though all the Authorized Datsun Dealers, and were so inexpensive that many Dealers gave them away as promotional items with new car sales. They could be purchased with or without the zip in lining - which was that red quilted material so common in the 70's for winter wear. They were also sold by BRE Racing / InterPart - but with a slight difference. The BRE Team Jackets had a large DATSUN patch on the rear - where the Dealer items did not. I still have mine - it is in very good shape - but sadly I am not - so it no longer fits me. The good news is that BRE is planing to reproduce them... Of course you can wear your's - Pictured below is Chris (aka 26th Z) wearing his at the 12 Hours of Sebring, and standing with Mr. Brock... An original, still in the bag - might bring some pretty high dollars on E-Bay. I've seen them go for over a hundred dollars in the past. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Wes: Great - just make certain that they understand that you do NOT want anything sprayed, coated, covered - on the ouside of the tank. Tell them that you will be doing a restoration to OEM of the exterior - and you want to start with just a very clean exterior. Also - there are four rubber pads on the top of the tank - they are just glued on there - take them off before you take the tank in for cleaning... After it's all repainted and shinny again - you can glue them back on. Ah.. progress.... kind regards, Carl B.

Wes - the tank is beautiful - you should see some of the one's I've pulled. Check your Yellow Pages for "Gas Tank Repairs"... I'm sure there is one in your area that can hot tank aka boil out - a gas tank. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks for the feeback Eric... good to know you located the problem FWIW, Carl B.

I guess that's a personal perspective... In my experience the 240-Z fares very well in the snow. Far better than most Sports/GT's and far better than any of the Corvettes/Jags I've had. I grew up in Ohio - snow and ice.. were part of the normal driving conditions. I bought my first 240Z in Spokane, Washington - snow, ice and black ice. Lived there for 4 years... Put 68K miles on my 70 Z in 18 months. Which means that most of the time was spent in winter driving conditions... The 240-Z is a wonderful car to drive in the snow, or on the ice... you just have to know how to drive in those conditions, and have the right tires etc. The Z is light weight and fairly easy to get going - stopping on hard pack snow, ice and black ice is difficult in any car. Directional stability at speed in the Z is also pretty good if you stay on top of it. Granted front wheel drive cars are easier to drive in the winter, likewise rear wheel drive cars with rear engines get better starting traction... but the Z's love winter driving...I've had mine to all the major ski resorts in the Pacific Northwest ... back and forth across the Western Mountain Passages too many times to count... Personally, I enjoyed the challenge and excitement of driving in the Winter in the Pacific Northwest... Because of SALT on the roads, I hated it in Ohio... FWIW, Carl B.

Yes -if you plan to keep it for a long time - take it all apart, put in on a rotisserie and strip the undercarriage down. Metal patch any area that is rusted, reseal any seams that need it. Then prime, POR-15 it and paint body color. Actually, looking past the dirt and grime - it looks to be in fairly good condition. If your going to go to all that trouble - make sure you take everything off that isn't welded on. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gus: Just to make us all sick - - just use some soap and water on the outside of the fuel tank - then without telling us - polish and wax it... then post another picture ;-) Rare to see a perfect tank ! Just washed and cleaned - it will be shinny black again... and smooth as a baby's but... The float looks new - amazingly good condition.. I knew I should have just bought that car myself - heck, all you have to do is wash the undercarriage... and it will look like new. You won't find an undercarriage like that on a Z for less than $18K.. The valve train looks great.. head clean as a pin - once clean hot oil goes through it for a few hundred miles... it will look like new. Just glass bead blast the valve cover.. Keep the pictures coming... FWIW, Carl B.

What would you consider "valuable" to be? I'd say that $25K for a ZX 10th AE is fairly Valuable today. The car was sold in Texas by an authorized dealer - so at least that one's value should be documented in the Sales Tax records... Shiro's don't bring much - but they do sell quicker and bring more than most like condition Z31 300ZX's. The 50th AE's in excellent conditon will sell for over $12K today, where like condition 84-88 Z31's will bring $2,500.00. I guess value and/or worth have to be relative terms rather than absolute.. FWIW, Carl B.

But very special to many Z enthusiasts. Take a 1980 280ZX with 25K original miles - on the market for close to a year. First asking price was $8,500.00... six months later it was $6,500.00. I tried to talk several people into picking it up as a daily driver - where are you going to find an all but new car for $6,500.00?; let alone one that is so much fun to own and drive? Finally the car sold to the buyer that showed up with $3,500.00 cash in hand. This car was in Florida, in the hands of the Original 72 year old Owner. Always garaged etc... This was last year. Now take a like condition 10th Anniversary Edition - Several in the past year have sold within days or weeks of being offered at $20K+ "It's just a ZX with an appearance group type option and a plaque".... No it's at least $16,500.00 more dollars and a faster selling car - - - But I think the real question being ask was - would Buyer A pay more for the #1 of 3000, than he would for the #2345 of 3000. In that case the #1 would sell quicker, and for a couple thousand more - all other things being equal. But location/proximity - attitude of the sellers - etc would also have a part to play. Having the #1 car of any model carries some talking points if not bragging rights - it's just a little more special and will usually sell for a little more money. FWIW, Carl B.

bad/mixed up connections, bad ignition switch or relay ??? ... you should have 12 volt with ignition switch ON and 12 volt with ignition switch START, as the Blaster uses 12V as I recall... BTW - many people are using the GM ignition module - far far less expensive than the NISSAN OEM part... and available at any Auto Parts Store.. Do you have a picture of the set-up/wiring? Carl B.

Hi Mike: Neat - I haven't seen that one. Can you post a larger picture of the spec.'s page...?? Carl