Carl Beck

Hi Ron: I'm glad to hear you had to turn right... to get onto BECK Rd. Small world... where everything is connected... Carl B.

Here are a couple pictures of the carb's being discussed. FWIW, Carl B.

All man make plastics - most especially of the less expensive type - crumble with age. 37 years is a long time. Someone most likely squeezed it to see if it was still soft - or leaned on it at some point. Exposure to ozone, sunlight etc hasten the decay FWIW, Carl B.

If you look at the picture I Posted - You will see that the two flat pads cast into the engine block have numbers stamped into them. The first one says L24 and the second has a number stamped into it. All "L" series engines sent to the US have these little flat pads cast into them. If someone put a 260Z engine in the car - the little flat pads on your engine should have "L26" stamped into the first pad - and it may or may not have a serial number stamped into the second pad. OEM replacement engines ordered though the Nissan Dealers Parts Department may not have had serial numbers stamped into them. In the picture I posted - you can see the little flat pads - just below and to the left of the #5 spark plug. Just look at your engine...at the rear.. below the #5 and #6 spark plugs... You should see two little flat pads, and they should be stamped with letters/numbers - let us know what they say Carl

Look on the passenger side of the block - just below the rear spark plugs..

Disassembled and panel painted... with PPG... doesn't get any better than that!! Once the body work and paint are finally done - the real fun begins. I hope that during the previous 375 days you were getting the rest of the component parts refreshed and ready to reinstall. Now it's just a matter of finding the other 400 parts you've decided to replace or refresh and getting them ready.... enjoy the process... Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Sorry - didn't mean to drag up old wounds... I would have been sick as well. I did see a full floor pan sold on E-Bay a few years ago... Now in hind sight, I wish I'd have bought it... good luck, Carl

Amazing.... I'd never tried that... One of these days I'll have to read the directions.. thanks Mike Carl

Hi Mike: What is with the "View Single Post"..... I haven't seen that before... Carl

Just for curiosity - I checked the Parts Catalog.... the adjustable 11/16 slave was used up to 06/72.. the self adjusting 3/4" slave started in 07/72.... Yes - 87974 would have been an 06/72 production build date.. FWIW, Carl

WHAT???...... he is just now finding that out???? Is this the same car you took out there last year or another one that you are having done?? This blows me away.... I'd think he would know if the car needed floor pans within the first couple days it was in the shop. What gives? Carl B.

The throw-out bearing is the same for all the applications you mention. If you are using the 280ZX 2+2, 280ZX Tubro Pressure Plate - you need the matching collar, which is the same for both. 30501-K0401 If your 06/72 has an adjustable rod on the slave cylinder - then someone swapped it in some time ago. I'm pretty sure that by 06/72 they were using the self-adjusting slaves. Nonetheless, just use the clutch fork that matches what ever slave you want to use. I see no reason not to use the self adjusting type - has nothing to do with the preformance of the clutch assembly. Only the rubber boot (dust cover) on the T5 is different, otherwise the clutch assy. and throw-out bearing/sleeve is the same for the 280ZX 2+2 and the Turbo. FWIW, Carl B.

You can use the 70 clutch fork and slave with the adjustible push rod. Or you can use the newer (72+) clutch fork and self-adusting slave. You just can't mix parts from the two. The 70/71 Clutch fork has a hole in it, for the ajustible push rod. The 72+ clutch forks have no hole... only an indent and use a different slave push rod. If you use the clutch fork that comes with the 5spd. transmission - then you need to swap out the slave with adjustible push rod - to one of the self adjusting type. It's no fun changing clutches... better to pay for known quality, than take a chance on unknown aftermarket suppliers. You won't have any problems with the Nissan parts. NAPA used to handle ZOOM clutch pressure plates and disc's.. They are just as good as the OEM replacements. The problem is not all NAPA stores carry them - and some NAPA counter people don't know how to specify them. If you special order parts, you usually have to pre-pay - and if the wrong brand replacement is sent to the store - you'll have a hassle refusing to take them and getting your money back. If you and your local NAPA dealer are tight - and the Parts Counter Person is knowledgeable... the ZOOM clutch assy is just fine, maybe a bit better. You also have to know how to measure the height of the clutch pressure plate fingers - to match it up properly with the correct throw-out bearing collar... Lacking all that - the best course for the average person, that wants to change a clutch once... is pay the extra money and go with OEM parts. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: By 03/70 the chaissis number were well up into the 2500 series...I've never seen chrome Z's on cars built after 01/70. Not saying they couldn't have existed... but I doubt the chrome Z's were produced in numbers greater than 1000 or 1500 before the final design with the raised outlined Z's painted white were in production. When we polled them, the only original owners that I could find that had chrome Z's - were the people that had 69 production year Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

Order the Nissan OEM clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing collar for the 83 280ZX non-turbo. Order it from a Nissan Dealer and make sure they understand that you want Nissan Parts.. not aftermarket.. As mentioned above - you have to have a throw-out bearing collar that matches the pressure plate. FWIW, Carl B.

The one Julio pictured was a Showroom Poster, about 20" x 30" that was hung in the Nissan Showrooms. If you visited the showroom soon enough, they gave many away to potential customers. I showed up too late... and they wouldn't part with the one they had on display. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Scott: First I have to say that I hope your girlfriend is over 30 years old. I wouldn't give my Z to my Daughter unless she was at least 30, and had worked hard for her first three or four cars. Then I'd know that she "might" have some appreciation for the Classic Sports/GT I was giving to her. Besides, I wouldn't want some dinky boyfriend messing with my Z, as well as with my daughter:finger: OK - seriously - Over my lifetime I've had just about any/every car I've wanted. Sports Cars, Muscle Cars, Practical Cars. I've been a car nut since the mid 50's. For the most part my lust or affection for each vehicle lasted about as long as each serious girlfriend... 5 years on average. AM-X, GTO, SS396, 428Super Cobra Jet. Corvette, Porsche, Jag. Ferrari. Corvairs, VW's, Datsun 510's....it seems the list is endless.. I bought my first 240-Z in Spokane, Washington in 1970 and I've been driving them ever since. I still have the 72 240-Z that I bought new at the end of 1971. The Z is the only car I never lost interest in, and without regard to "price" it is the best Sports/GT I've ever owned. As everything else came and went from my ownership over the past 38 years - the 240-Z is the only car that always stayed. Everything about the 240-Z is as I would have designed it myself - if I had had the talent, experience and knowledge to have done it. - - - ah with maybe 1 or 3 picky exceptions. 1. I would have done a far superior job of corrosion proofing... a car that wonderful should never have been allowed to bare it's very thin and tender sheet metal to the elements. 2. Even in 1969 I would have equipped it with larger diameter and width wheels/tires and associated brakes. 3.......ah there must be something else... but I can't think of it right now.... The bottom line is that the 240-Z changed America's perception of what a Sports Car should be, and how much a truly fine Grand Touring Car should cost. The combination of Beauty, Balance and Budget that the Datsun 240-Z offered has to this day never been equaled by any competitor. "Budget" in the above refers to the Engineering Budgets, the trade-off's made during both the engineering and production phases, which allowed the original beautiful styling coming out of the Styling Studio to be faithfully retained into final form. The Datsun 240-Z is the car that laid the foundation for the broad acceptance of Japanese automobiles among American consumers. It is today considered a true Classic and perhaps one of the ten most important vehicles in US Automotive History. The man most responsible for shepherding it out of the Design Studio, through Engineering and finally into full mass production, Mr. Yutaka Katayama, has been inducted into the Automobile Hall Of Fame in Dearborn. "A fun car to own"... for sure, but also it should be seen as a treasured Classic. Today you can pay ten to fifty times as much for a Sports/GT and in the end it still won't be as completely good, as honest, nor as much fun as a Datsun 240Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Depending on the appearance and actual condition - complete triple setup's with the Cannon intake usually sell on E-Bay for between $550.00 and $650.00. I've seen them go for as low as $350.00 when no reserve was set and no one was watching and as high as $1200.00 when two people really wanted them at the same time. The condition and type of Air Cleaners will matter... the air cleaners alone can run $175.00... The long runner "Cannon" intake is best for street and all round performance. The shorter runner manifolds are long track high speed type. If they are very clean I'd put them on E-Bay with a Buy-It-Now of $695.00... and I'd set a reserve of $600.00. If they don't sell the first time - relist them every couple months.. they'll sell. FWIW, Carl B.

Like everyone here, I'm sorry to hear that this turned out like it has. I can also say that your not the only one to have an experience like this. As I recall, in his original ad he said that the paint job would have to be redone if one wanted it to be show quality. Perhaps I don't understand your statement that "The added paint job was awful." Did you mean the paint job that was on the car as advertised, covering the original blue, that the seller said wasn't show quality? FWIW, Carl B.

If I had remembered - - Chris and I could have planned a drive over to Lakeland in the BRE Z. It is close enough for a round trip on one tank of gas. A couple years ago a bunch of us got together at Baldwin Park.. Why did they schedule both Baldwin Park and Lake Mirror on the same weekend? That is the real bummer..... FWIW, Carl B.

I have the Carter Rotary vane type in one car - and I have a Holly Red Rotary vane type that I use outside the car (to empty the fuel cell when the car sits for prolonged periods) The Carter puts out a very loud Buzzzzzz as installed in the car - I can hardly hear the Holly run with it sitting outside the car. Because of the base design on the Holly, I couldn't use it in the space provided in the car... On my Blue 72 - I ran a Carter electric - only the gear and rotor eccentric mechanism type. You could hear it run when you first started the car as it pressurized the lines - then only at idle you could faintly hear it pump..........pump.........pump... or as Big sam said."clonkclonk clonkclonk clonkclonk".. OEM pumps are usually designed to be quite... many today are put in the fuel tank to keep them cool and quite.. so the RX-7 pump mentioned by Gary sounds like a good idea. FWIW, Carl B. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jim: No problem - I was asking Julio or anyone that perhaps understood his first Post better than I, and I'm glad you answered. Below are copies of the pages from the 72 Manual... my 73 Manual is in the garage right now - so it was easier to scan the 72 Manual in the office.. It is most likely the same as the 73.. No mention of the fishscale in the rear.. FWIW, Carl B.

AND Hi Jim: Yes, I had that same picture of the FishScale in mind when I ask if Oiluj had used that method. From his words I couldn't tell if that was the case or if he was using a torque wrench (on a lug nut on a stud) - as he used only the term "torque" to slowly rotate the hub -in that sentence. At any rate.. the FishScale is used in the FSM on the Front Wheel Bearing.. now that I check my 72 FSM... for both new bearings and re-using the present one... PS - This is what happens when 85% of your memory is "graphic" rather than textual. FWIW, Carl B.

Was a fish scale used to take the measurement in the first place? Or was some other method used? Interesting thread... but the use of aftermarket parts may be what is throwing the Nissan Spec.'s for Nissan supplied parts - out of wack. Were Nissan supplied parts NLA? FWIW, Carl B.

In my opinion that Carter pump is anything but quite. It is a constant buzzzzzz in my car.. a loud buzzzzzz too. Could be partly where I had to mount it (in the tool pocket behind the seat... but it was mounted with rubber isolators etc. If you don't really need a competition pump - I'd be looking for one that is quite.. or less noisy. just my experience.. Carl B.