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It doesn't center on the hub, but on the bolts, but the problem must be in the wheels, I swopped front to back, and it did alot towards the vibration..it's alot less. So will try take it to a specialized shop this week if possible. New tires for sure, can't take the risk. I got some stock needles for the carbs from a friend, and put them in, also turned the mixture screws more lean, so will see what it does overtime. Also RF brake caliper was leaking, and used a rebuild kit to fix it. 2 small things done today

2 washers on the big bolt, and a paper gasket on the float bowl, I used liquid gasket, works so far.

Different to explain in English, but they are not self centered bolts.

Blue, thanks for the tip I checked and 1 wheel seems the holes are worn out, when I put it on the hub, and put the bolts on and then loosen up a bit, I can move it up and down,left and right a little bit, while the other 3 didn't. I changed wheels front to back, and it did help a little. The steering wheel and the car is steady to about 50 mph, after that the steering wheel starts to shake and vibrate, also I can feel it through the car. Must be a tire/rim problem... I will take the car to a shop that's specialized in rim repair and also let them put new tires on right away, these ones are from 2002 to old.. and they might help with the problem. The plugs fooled again today, I will try to get stock needles.

Alan you have any more information about the shaking? Maybe it can help my find the problem.. I just checked all the bolts on the underside of the car, driveline and engine, and some where loose. And I lubed all the grease points. It did help a little again with the vibration, but it's still there. And about the carbs, any idea if the previous owner swopped needles? Bart

Many people worked with Hitler... the CIA also took high ranking Nazi's to the USA.

A little update from our '' beloved '' goverment . The tax free rule for classic cars was 25 years or older, now they upped that to 40 years. So I'm Lucky. That means anything above 73 will have to pay tax Akkoord over wegenbelasting voor oldtimers - Binnenland | Het laatste nieuws uit Nederland leest u op Telegraaf.nl [binnenland]

I know about the heat range from plugs since I use it for my work also ( scooters ), and I would also think a 5 or 6 would burn cleaner, since it will get hotter. But somehow the 7's color nice, and the hotter ones fool. I do know it's running rich, since I see black fumes when flooring the pedal when car is on the driveway when engine is hot. I think the needles must have been changed somewhere along the way like you suggested for richer ones. My main concern now is getting the vibrations out of the car

that's alot of money for a 77 ?

Could very well be.. I noticed alot of room around the nozzle when the needle was in closed position, and especially @ WOT.

Hey Alan, Thanks for your feedback. The choke problem is solved,( the carbs needed cleaning badly ! ) but when I was working on the carbs I did notice about the needles, I think they where changed for richer ones, as I noticed alot of room around the nozzle. The basic plugs seem to hold fine now, it's just drinking some more fuel hehe. The tires...it could be aswell something else What I notice is that around 30 mph, the whole car wobbles, like your on a bumpy road..maybe that's the best way to describe it. " a wiggle through the car " It goes through the whole car, but the steering wheel is steady, the steering wheel starts to shake above 60 mph ( which is horror on the motorway ). I checked engine mounts but they seem okay. I will try check more parts, like the driveshaft for play when I have some time. @ Blue: yeah, it clearly running rich. What I find odd however, is that the heat range 7 plugs color nicely... and the 6 plugs turn all black and fail to ignite.

Okay, I got a few things to do. First of all my steering wheel is vibrating above 60 mph, and I got a wobble throughout the car at 30 mph. The tires are pretty old from 2002, and they show a slight height difference on the surface when rotating on the balancing machine ( I don't know if this can cause a wobble ? ). Tires are good, but maybe I do need to put new ones? I got the car on the bridge, and noticed a play ( only noticable when I put pressure left to right on the wheel with both hands ) in the front right wheel ( passenger side ). Best thing I can examine is that the inner wheel bearing is shot. The outher conical wheel bearing where loose on both sides, but still okay. I torqued them tight again, and that did seem to solve quite a bit vibration through the steering wheel, but still there. I'm also noticing slight play ( when I pull hard up and down with my hand ), on the tie rods. So I'll try to order a front wheel bearing kit and maybe tie rods to? What do you guys think? Can the old tires also cause problems, excessive stress to the steering column?

back firing through carb, can be running to rich or to lean ignition timing off leaking valves ( but not assuming that )

why didn't they go with a tuned l series engine? dropping and rb in there ruins it for me...

That's where the interior heater hoses connect, it must be leaking somewhere around there, that's above the starter motor

I hope you keep the motivation for the bodywork ! Once that's done, you can start rebuilding, and the fun begins Good luck ! Keep us updated.

now you know why you got it for peanuts... Anyhow I don't know how to explain in English, but measure the body first if it's straight, then work your way down from there

Datsun : Z-Series 2 dr coupe in Datsun | eBay Motors

I admire your guys hard work to these projects ! I've done something similiar in the past with an all crispy 73, but it didn't saw the light at the end of the tunnel, in the end I thought I could just as well look for a more solid base structure to begin with. Hope you guys get it finished before the summer starts Keep going.

Mine was leaking to, but it was the core, and my dad soldered it. But if the valve is leaking, look for another one on a yunkjard maybe? Don't know if there are any around with Z's in your area. My valve was stuck to, but sprayed it with wd40 and gently loosened it up, it still holds I think if I would have ripped it open without using some lube, it would have damaged the seal.

I don't know either..maybe they are just lazy to look it up

I tend to agree, that color looks close enough I want to do mine in the summer, but 'not in a hurry on that, I do need to order parts from the US anyhow, so will order the correct block paint then to. Keep going e-tek ! You'll be driving it soon with this pace. Really nice work so far. Look in my topic about the carbies... I cleaned them with a very small screw driver scrapping the dirt of, and with alot of patience. Make sure to check the exit from the float bowl, mine was very much clogged with dirt. I use Valvoline 190 black, never had problems with it. You should try it !

Well I took the code HS30-H gave me to various paints shops, but strangly they couldn't convert the paint code.. so the only will be ordering from the states this summer then. I can't paint the block now anyhow, need to do in the summer months.

What do you mean e-tek? The float bowl is locked to the main housing with only 1 nut ( at least that was the case with mine ), it's easier to take it off. @3ryce: an easy way to check if the float is closing in time, is to put a little hose on the top gasoline feed, and put into your mouth. For testing clean first, and leave the float valve connected to the top of the housing. Then when the hose is in your mouth, blow pressure on it, and move the float bowl gently up, to notice where it's closing, if it works you should not be able to blow anymore air through the hose. The float bowl should not be all horizontal when closed, a little under it.

congrats getting it back on the road!