Inf

gah, supposed to be 96 degrees tomorrow

This? It's been a bit since I had mine apart, but if I remember correctly the button just pushed on a shaft which pushed that little contact arm in the center of the picture inwards (towards the steering column) to the little contact post. If mine was giving me connection problems I think I would probably just take the contacts off and sand them down with some fine sand paper then figure out some coating that would keep it from oxidizing? (although I would probably get lazy and just lube it up real well with dielectric grease) Maybe redoing the solder joints as well if they looked like 'cold' joints I don't even know if my washer pump works, I haven't ever used it. I am a big rainx fan so I don't generally use the wipers to clear the wind screen

Another post in support of kroil : I bought a gallon of this stuff 2 years ago, already used about 1/3 of it. Magic in a can!

I've already lost interest after scanning over the article and immediately picking out "240 ZX" Edit : Upon gnashing my teeth and forcing my way through the article, I am looking forward to the show coming on. However, as for the author of that article.....

I believe Alan said that it is not open to the public. He was able to get in during a special club event.

I'm guessing that was just a dealer add-on. Modern dealers do the same thing with the little stipes along the sides, etc. Boosts the price by something retarded like $100.

I would check to make sure the circuit is grounding properly as it is drawn in the wiring diagram. I think a lot of electrical problems eventually get traced to a bad ground. (or a ground in the wrong place, i.e. a short) I can't seem to find the file section, so I guess i'll upload the wiring diagram that used to be there here in case you don't already have one. A good place to check would be the turn signal switch and the hazard switch. From glancing at the wiring diagram, the circuit runs through both of those parts. I would make sure continuity is right for the different switch positions like is shown in the diagram. Sometimes the internals of the switch will totally flake out on you and cause trouble. I ended up having problems with my dash/parking lights because of a burned out rubber part inside the combination switch : the lights would flicker and sometimes just turn off when going over bumps! scary! I did a temporary fix with some epoxy, but i'm still not too confident about it. I am thinking about just biting the bullet and buying a new combo switch (if I can find one that is). You could try jiggling the switch when you are testing it, sometimes continuity is intermittent only when some loose piece is in a certain position. This was the case with my combo switch. I haven't ever gone over the turn signal switch, but I am guessing it is suscepitible to the same kind of failure.

The plot thickens. Oh yeah, and you are right Walter, the sticker in the glove box lists 400lbs as the maximum permissible load. I'll try and remember and take a picture tomorrow since i've never come across a picture of this sticker on the site.

If you mean on the fenders, the 240Z came with just "DATSUN" badges on each side originally as shown in the pics. HLS30s sold here as 260z and 280z got those badges instead.

"THIS IS A FACTORY MOTOR, WITH NO MODIFICATIONS" I would count removing the smog gear as a modification The speedometer starts at 10mph, obviously ganked from an earlier car The bumpers look at little large for a 72, I didn't think they started putting those bumpers on until 73 Too bad they didn't include a picture of the build date on the drivers side door tag Maybe its just the photo, but the rear deck carpet looks like cut pile rather than the original loop pile

It might, sometimes when the fuse block melts it can cause the connectors to have intermittent connections. I had this problem with my parking lights/taillight fuse. It melted the black lower part out around the connection so that when the car vibrated (i.e. engine running, moving, etc) it will break the connection every so often. It is only held together by a rivet, which sometimes isnt tight at all after all these years. I failed my first inspection because of this. Luckily a club member managed to help me out with a good fuse block back then. Another thing to check would be the brake light switch which is mounted under the dash on a bracket that sits in front of the brake pedal arm. It should be easy to locate once you get down there. A wiring diagram would be helpful. I haven't looked but i'm guessing the switch operates in series with the whole circuit, so you would want to check if it goes to ~0 resistance when the brake pedal is pressed.

If the fuse is getting hot without breaking the connection, I would guess that the problem(or at least part of it) is with the fuse block itself. Often the connections get corroded and as a result create resistance which makes the pieces act like heating elements. There are some threads about taking care of a corroded fuse block. I remember reading someone suggesting soaking the entire unit in vinegar for a number of hours as the acetic acid reacts with the oxidation.

I would be careful and check your points regularly. The original purpose of the ballast resistor was to lower the voltage across the points thereby reducing pitting of the contacts from arcing. I think most people who remove the ballast do so once they have swapped to an electronic ignition.

Yeah i've pretty much started using it exclusively. Works great and the interface is pleasing to the eye.

I have 6 gmail beta invites, if anyone wants one shoot me a pm with a current email address gmail is google's web based email system (http://gmail.google.com) and they are beta testing it right now. The only way to get an account is to be invited by someone who already has it. It's pretty nifty if I do say so no flames for non-z related material please

Thanks for the link. I really need to get my 72 driver side retractor rebuilt. I took it out and put a non-retractable lab belt in last year since the retractor coil broke. Should probably have the passenger side rebuilt too. Whenever people get in for a ride it seems to give them trouble? It locks up fairly easily while it is being pulled out. Drivers side never gave that much trouble before it broke.

Anyone have experience with the leather kits classicdatsun sells?

(slightly off topic) Just out of curiosity, when did the transition from a 'full size' spare to a 'space saver' spare happen? My 72 has what would have been a full size with the original wheels, but I have seen pics of 280zs with the space saver I believe.

? Bit of an overreaction I think.

Wow check it again. That's almost double what I paid for a new set last year from mwz.