EuroDat

If you go with the 2+2 clutch, like I did, you will need the 2+2 flywheel. The 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts where the 225mm has 6 bolts. If you go with the 240mm I would lighten the flywheel or go for the aluminium version. I lightened my flywheel. See attached jpeg. The blue text are the dimensions I used. Its good enough for street use. The 225mm and 240mm flywheels are the same weight, but the disc and the pressure plate for the 240mm clutch is slightly heavier. Some figures on installed load for original pressure plates: 225mm: 550kg 240mm: 780kg The advantage of the 240mm pressure plate is a lot more grip with the original OEM pedal feel. Like Cliff said, A lightened flywheel makes the engine more responsive. Probably the most bang for your buck on a standard engine.

Wow, that cma looks really bad. When you start playing with these engines, you will find lots of combinations to chose from. Everything from conrods to even using vw golf pistons. I remeber having this discussion about the valves years ago. And a members machine shop mixed up the diferent L28 valves when they replaced a couple. If you use a general machine shop, YOU need to know a lot about these engines. Here is a thread about the problems Ben was having. I admire Ben's resolve to finish it.

Yes that would mess up the valve timing. Now the real question. What valves did they us in this head when they fitted the L28 valves? Normally when people do a head upgrade with a P79 or P90 (turbo head). They then shave 2mm of the head to raise the compression, add 2mm shimes to the cam towers to correct the valve timing and fit the valves out of a N42 or N47 head. Yes those valves have two mm longer stems. If your head doesn't have shimes, I persume it has the valves for the P79/P90 heads. You would then need an adjustable timing gear to correct the valve timing. I have the length of the valves written down somewhere. Ill dig it up and post it later.

The E88 onthe noth american L26 had 35mm exhaust valves. I think they increased the size for the tougher californian emmision laws. It also has different chambrs for better emmision, less power. It's often called the emision head when people talk about the E88 head. I think you have basically 3 types of E88 head, one virtually identical to the E31, the "normal" E88 and the E88 on the L26. Going by your mwasurements, looks like someone already enlarged the inlet valve (1.73), thats if it was of a L26. If it is one of the early ones, they have enlarged both valves. There is a thread here somewhere with photo's of the different E88 chambers. That could help you work out which head it was.

I wonder what the PO did with the head, if he did anything too it. It's most likely bolted onto a N42 block. The head was designed for an L24 in the 1984 Maxima with the smaller valves and smaller chamber. Chambers in the N47 are 44.6cc and in the MN47 they are 39cc. The N42 block also had dished (10.9cc) pistons. The F54 has flat tops and the P79 head had 53.6cc chambers. The MN47 head on an F54 block would have a really high CR.

Good to hear you got it up and running. It's easy to under estimate how much air is in the system after stripping it down and cleaning it. Takes a while before it's all out and that can cause a lot of issues like hard to start and won't run. On the pressure: These early EFI systems don't meassure fuel pressure. The ECU calculates fuel delivery based on a constant fuel pressure over the injector tip. The pressure regulator is connected to the manifold to messure vacuum and adjust the fuel pressure accordingly. If you didn't regulate the fuel pressure: Say you had 10 in.Hg (-4.91psig) vacuum and didn't regulate the fuel pressure, you would have 40.91psig pressure across the tip and that would supply more fuel than the ECU calculated. The regulator would reduce the fuel pressure to an approximate 31psig. 28 psi is about right at idle. Depends on your vacuum in the manifold. It should have about -8psig or 16 to 17 in.Hg The CSV uses 12 volts. A 9 volt battery will activate it. I don't think 2 AA will activate is. I also use a 9 volt battery to test injectors. I have never burnt one out yet. Mmm now Ive said that..... In the circuit diagram you will see the CSV doesn't have a dropping resistor like the injectors. Your distributor drive might be a couple of teeth out of alignment. It might be easier for now to do what Zed Head said and rotate the plug leads one position on the distributor cap. Then you can set the distributor back to approximatly the correct position. I am wondering how it got so far out of position. Maybe the PO dismantled it and reassembled it and the engine has never run since. There is a thread hear talking about setting the distributor.

If you checked your timing and it is ok and you have spark at the plugs then I would grab a can of aerostart and see if it will start on that. If you spray it in the intake (air filter removed) you should be able to get it to fire and run, all be it very roughly by spraying it every second or so. Now if you can get it to do that, you have problems with your fuel delivery. That would be my next step. Work one problem at a time, solve it or cancel it out and move on to the next.

TDC should be at the top of your timing plate. The plate has timing makes from 0 to 20 degrees btdc. If you crank the engine, adjust the timing to somewhere in the top section of the plate. Once you start the engine, you can adjust if properly. Just lining up the rotor button is not very acurate. The rotor has a "phasing" function because it has to transfer spark through a wide range of advance (from 8 up to 36 degree of advance). If you do try to manually adjust the distributor (enough to start the engine). Line up the rotor button with number one spark plug terminal, remover the button and then adjust the distributor until the reluctor rotor fractionally passes the reluctor (see red circle in third photo). The metal strip in the reluctor is what you should line up. It is not very acurate, but it will be enough to get it started.

First question. Are you sure it's getting proper full? Pressure good, maximum 36psi, no air in the system from rebuilding the system. It could be firing on the fuel from the CSV and no fuel from the injectors Do you have a timing light? It would be easier to crank the engine, check the timing and set it to 5 degree btdc. I say 5 because cranking speed is about 300 rpm and lower than idle speed. You can adjust it properly when it runs. The rotor button gives a reasonable indication that the timing is in the right area, but the pickup coil under the rotor button is the before indication. One of the pointer of the 6 pointer star (reluctor rotor) under the rotor button should line up with the pick up coil or a fraction past it.

The L28 in the salvage yard would be interesting. If they let you remove the valve cover and spark plugs for a quick inspection. If it didn't work out, the head and inlet manifold would be worth that alone. The inlet manifold should be a N42 like the head. It is open runners as apposed to webbed and no egr. Most people refer to matching numbers when they talk about the 240Z. The engine number was punched into the vin plate. Nissan stopped doing this with the 280Z. Most of us 280Z guys are just trying to find stuff like ECU, AFM etc that still works rather than period correct. Well, that is my struggle in life. If you choose to go with a rebuilt engine, be carefull and reserch the company that did the work. You could spend a lot and eventually end up worse off then you ard now. Seriously.

I went through a similar situation trying different things. Ended up with fibreglas bumpers from msa and the air dam.

Ben, Nice find. Welcome to the club. Hardcto judge with one photo, but it looks in good condition. Do you know what you want to do with her?

I made my cable seal out of a piece of viton sheet rubber. The o-ring and pinion seal are still available through nissan. The part numbers and sizes are in the attatched pdf file. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

I still have a couple off sets for the front. I think I have one set for the rear. If I don't have the rear, I make another 15 sets. I had a couple other members asking in the last weeks. @riverstonefly If you are still interested, send me a pm.

When peolle upgrade from the 4 speed to the speed, most go for the "close ratio" five speed in the 81-83 280ZX transmission. Be carefull. It has to be a 280ZX coupe non turbo. The 2+2 has the wide ratio like the 280Z. 2+2 also has the larger 240mm clutch disc and flywheel, but that is another story. Im not saying a "close ratio" is better. There are things to consider when you choose which transmission. The 240Z 4 speed came with a 3.364:1 diff ratio. Not a good ratio with a close ratio tranny. You could search for a 260Z, 280Z or 280ZX auto model with the 3.545:1 ratio. The wide ratio would be better with the 3.364:1 diff. Just something to think about. I have a 3.7:1 out of a 300ZX early 86 model. It works well behind the close ratio, but I have a 280Z and it is a relatively easy swap. Here are some documents I put together. They might help you work out what you want. Identification FS5W71B.pdf What does the codering mean.pdf FS5W71B 280Z and 280ZX transmissions.pdf

That makes a lot more sense. If you have a 280Z, then you would preferably want a donor 280Z body. There are some small differences in the 280Z bodies over the production years, but it is nothing much. Can you post some photos of the damaged section you are planning to replace? Photos say so much more than words. Btw welcome to the club.

Ive never seen a 289ZX

The trans out of the 86 300ZX (non turbo) is a FS5W71C transmission. It will fit, but will need the bellhousing from the FS5W71B or the F4W71B. It won't just bolt up.The 300ZX VG30E engine has a different bolt pattern. You will also need to modify or make a new rear transmission cross member and shorten the propeller shaft or find one from a series 1 240Z. The 71C is basically 50mm longer in the rear section.

The grill looks nice and straight. Should clean up ok. It should be the later version with the larger lower brackets that mount on the side to clear the bigger bumper brackets. They are easy to change to the early model if needed.

If it wasn't for the shipping, I would be happy to buy it. Last one I tried to buy here, he wanted €250 for it, as is... My 71C project has been on hold ever since...

Looks like you need to adjust the reed switch for the fuel pump in the AFM. You can bend the arm that moves the reed contact it with a simple paar of pliers. The PO may have played with the vane spring tension .There is a write up on www.atlanticz.ca on how to calibrate the spring http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

You are probably having trouble reading the circuit diagram because it's for a 77 model with one igniter pick-up in the distributor. In your case, you have a pre 4/75 car (going on the bosch AFM) which had a dual pick-up with red, green & brown wires going to the terminal block on the inner fender and the TIU. You changed the old distributor to a 79 280ZX distributor with a built in TIU. A lot of people on the forums call it the matchbox. Reading through this thread, you changed over the original TIU internal to the GM HEI module. I have not seen anything on how you disconnected the "matchbox" If the match box TIU on the 79 distributor is working, I would use it and disconect the old remote TIU. This tech article might be of some help. Its about disconnecting the matchbox and using a hei module. If the matchbox tiu is still in place and functional all you need to do with the 79 dizzy is connect the two pins on the distributor tiu to a 12v coil. Disconect all the wires on the old tiu and it should run.

I was thinking that too. You could spin the circlip around to the back of the cup to get more contact. Captain Obvious and I mentioned doing that around post 1870, but if you look at the photo's in post 1860, theee is not enough clerance. The circlips would bind on the back section.

The A11 600 000 is the manual version and the 601 is automatc version. Nissan don't mention any difference between the auto or the manual in their part numbers. Unfortunatly they didn't mark the ECU with their number, so tracing the ecu to their part number is not easy if at all. No csv seems strange. An auto is no easier to start when its cold so why would they delete it? The very early 280Z up to April 75 had a Bosch unit (B, after that they are all JECS (J I thought they were interchangable up to August 77. The units after August 77 don't have the terminal 20 for fuel injection relay. They changed the relay to a two separate relay system in the engine bay and used the oil sensor to activate it. The switch in the AFM is no longer used. I think I posted a photo of ghe two AFM's earlier in this thread. They also introduced a califorian version which had an altitude switch. I have a 5/77 280Z with a ECU out of a 6/76 and it runs without issues. My car is a manual and the donor 6/76 also.