MikeW

I wouldn't necessarily consider the title to be authoritative. For instance, the title on my car lists it as a 4-cylinder. I suspect some ignorant DMV worker just assumed that because it was a Japanese car. The fact that your car has a specific VIN and a specific manufacture date is good enough. After all the so-called year of the car is somewhat arbitrary. We know that there were overlaps during the transition periods between model year.

From the outside the only visible difference is that the bumpers on a '73 stick out a little farther and have a black spacer between them and the body. Internally the big change in '73 was the "flat top" carburetors.

Here's an even better idea from MSA: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=10-2069 I suppose someone could ask them what it's for ...

As I mentioned in a previous post my local auto paint shop carries a selection of fasteners as might be required by auto body shops. I went ahead and ordered a box of rivets that were listed as applying to Nissan and appeared to be a close match to what we require. I'm not sure which models these were used in but I'm guessing that Nissan learned a lesson and came up with a better alternative. As you can see in the attached picture these use a plastic screw with a phillipps head instead of the smooth push pin. While the head is slightly larger that's not really a problem. The barrel part is slightly too big which makes for a tight fit. A box of 25 of these was under $10. MSA lists the original rivets at 10 for $6.50 and people seem to often pay far more than that on eBay.

What makes are you seeing a lot of? We obviously see a lot of Kia and Hyundai in the states and I've seen Daewoo (and actually driven a rental) in Europe.

It's interesting to look at "her" eBay profile and other auctions. The eBay name is 2002enzo and all of the items bought and sold seem to be diecast Ferrari models.

There is almost always rust under the tar mat. If you really don't have rust please post some pictures of your floor pans.

We've discussed this here several times - both for wheels and other components such as valve covers. Do a search for "sandpaper polish".

No, you get one attempt to vote for as many items you want to choose.

In addition to the previous advice I found that a wet/dry vac is very useful when working on the inside. Several of the POR15 steps require rinsing with water and a wet /dry vacuum will get most of it out in a hurry. There's also a lot of other debris that comes out with it. I know that this thread was started talking about the underside of the floor pans but to do it right you really have to treat it on both sides. If there's rust at all under the undercoating there's going to be rust under the tar mat.

Just a quick clarification: it's very important to install the stainless trim in the seal before installing the windshield/seal back in the car. It's virtually impossible to do later.

I didn't see any italics at first but now I do. It appears that the options you voted for are shown in italics.

There are more than likely screws or rivets holding them on. You can easily verify this by removing the black rubber part from the silver channel. The fasteners will then be visible and if you then decide not to remove them you can just re-install the black part.

The aftermarket "Precision" seals. I didn't realize that the design was different from OEM.

I didn't even bother with adhesive as the door weatherstrip sticks on fairly well all by itself. As far as the adhesive drying with the doors open or closed I doubt it matters.

My understanding is that it can be transferred to a new owner of that machine or if your machine breaks and you need to replace it but doesn't count if you simply want to upgrade. Here's what TiVo has to say: http://tinyurl.com/6n34f

It's not so much an order as just doing everything at once. The idea is that you're, for instance, having to slow down to go around a curve. You have to brake for the curve but would like to downshift at the same time, either for additional braking, or, more likely, to be able to accelerate better after the curve. Since a proper downshift in this situation requires increasing the RPMs you really need 3 feet: one for each pedal. Since you probably don't have three feet you'll need to somehow use one foot for two pedals and it's easiest to use your right foot for both the brake and the gas while your left handles the clutch. It's not such much your heel and toe as it is two sides of the same foot. Here's a much more thorough explanation with pictures and everything. http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/45792/article.html Instead of bothering to write an explanation of double-clutching and then searching for a link I've just skipped straight to a link: http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1996/December/11.html

It's actually $5/month per household, not per unit so I don't have to pay $15 for my 3 units. The so-called lifetime option that TiVo offers on standalone units is actually the lifetime of the unit not your lifetime. While electronics these days last a long time you'll frankly want to by a super new unit with a 1000 hours capacity in a few years anyhow. My most recent DirecTivo device was $79 for an 80 hour unit. Some of my season passes: Reno 911 Mythbusters The Daily Show Classic car restoration Overhaulin'

I wouldn't worry about it filling up your drive. TiVo will always record something you've asked for before recording something it thinks you'll like and likewise will erase any suggestions as needed prior to erasing something you've asked for.

I have the same setup as Carl only I have 3 units total (one for each TV in the house). One more thing about TiVo that Carl didn't mention is that you can rate shows using TiVo. If you see something you really like you can give it one or more "thumbs up" ratings. Something you don't like gets the "thumbs down". TiVo gathers this information and will use it to automatically record shows for you based on what it thinks you'll like. It determines this by looking at how other people rated stuff that you also rated. Because of this, and the shows you've specifically told it to record you rarely watch live TV. After all, there's always a bunch of good stuff waiting for you to watch on your own schedule.

I used Xylene to clean up the remaining residue. I also tried Acetone but Xylene works much better. It's the main ingredient in those goo remover products but is much cheaper and you can buy it buy the quart or gallon at places like Home Depot or Lowes, etc. It is toxic so wear proper breathing protection.

Normally you'd just use a longer breaker bar with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. You can do this without even taking the valve cover off. I'd do that instead of trying the camshaft idea. I think it's a 27mm bolt.

I used a heat gun as well. The idea is to just soften the whole thing up enough for it to peel up and not break into little pieces. It's not enough to melt it completely and it comes up easily with a plastic paint scraper.

I used these guys: http://www.jasperengines.com/ It was around $2000 but that includes shipping both ways. You get a 3 year 70,000 mile warranty and it's basically a new engine. From what I could tell, I got back my original block, crankshaft, head, and camshaft. Everything else (pistons, connecting rods, valves, valve seats, chain, sprockets, etc. is new). If you don't care about matching numbers they probably have one ready to go and you just send yours as a core.

It's possible that a bad voltage regulator is causing the battery to be overcharged (too high a voltage). You could put a meter across the battery while the car is running to measure the voltage. It could be that the battery itself is bad - or has already been damaged - so I don't know that I'd even want to try it with the current battery. You might consider just taking it somewhere that sells batteries. They can diagnose the one you've got as well as the whole charging system.