MikeW

If I'm not mistaken all of the instruments are simply grounded to the dash frame itself which is metal. Perhaps you can verify with an ohm meter that there's no resistance between the dash frame and another known ground on the body.

I can post a picture if you like but it's pretty obvious. As Enrique already mentioned the roller fits into a cutout that's centered six inches back from the front of the window opening.

Welcome. If your dashboard pad is cracked - like most of them are - it's possible to get it restored. This would cost a lot less money than trying to buy a new pad - which may be impossible anyhow.

For the L24 my FSM lists 171-185 PSI.

Which parts? Perhaps you could put them in a sealed plastic container with some desiccant.

I would test the pump with a fuel line straight into a gas can. You could have a clog anywhere between the pump and the tank.

http://www.raremotorcars.com/vehicles.html

Well, they're $10 each here: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ so I don't know where else to try. I can't remember where I got mine - probably from MSA.

I'd say are are driving around with your brakes on and the heat is from the friction of constant contact even when the pedal is not pressed. While I'm sure others here will be able to provide you with advice on what you might be able to do yourself to fix this my advice would be to not try to drive like this until you're sure it's fixed. Working brakes are the most important thing on your car and if nothing else it may be the one thing to have an expert look at.

Part C is a combination switch from a 240Z prior to 1973 when the connector was changed due to the addition of an intermittent wiper position. Part D are front side marker lights that are the same from 70-78. Part E are taillights from a 260 or 280. I don't think there's a difference between those models.

Kats, As far as I am concerned due to your personal contacts and investigations you have provided valuable information to the Z car community. I don't see how anyone could disagree or question your findings. If for whatever reason the source of your latest data would prefer that it not be published then I think you are right to respect that wish. Perhaps there is a good explanation for that wish and you could, for instance, get permission to publish the data with parts of it redacted. I would prefer that you don't do anything that would get your information source cut off.

I would guess there's a problem in the switch. The washer part of the switch is quite simple. I can take and post some pictures if it would help you. There's really only one voltage level in the car and it should be around 12 volts. What does your meter read right across the battery? Is this with the car running on not?

Why not pay a locksmith to re-key the hatch to match the doors?

I got some replacement plastic rivets at my local paint supply store. They were far less expensive and have the advantage of using a plastic screw in the center instead of a pin that gets pushed through and lost.

It seems to be generic consumer advice at the top of all classified ads there - not something specific to the wheel ad.

You must have missed this entire thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21420

Those gauges come out from the back. While it's possible to go through the glovebox it's not easy to do without destroying the box. A better way is to remove the heater control panel. It's really not that difficult if you first remove the four control cables at their far ends.

The fuel coming out of the vent hose is most likely due to a stuck needle valve in the top of the float chamber. Sometimes you can just tap on the float bowl lid with a plastic screwdriver handle and get it unstuck. If that doesn't work I'd take the lid off and verify that the float and valve are working properly. You should be able to find discussions on this very topic here in the past.

It sounds like the timing chain may have slipped. Since the car has an interference engine it is possible that the valves could be bent which would explain the lack of compression.

5/16 should be fine. Someone here once said 8mm which is almost exactly 5/16". The crank bolt is 27mm.

Sorry I missed this thread earlier when the topic of metric conversions and calculations came up but I thought I would point out how useful Google is for things like this. No, I'm not talking about searching for a calculator. I'm talking about using Google as the calculator. Simply go to Google and in the search box type whatever you need. Here are some examples: .030mm in inches 2+2 70mph in kph 3.5 USD in GBP 150000 JPY in USD

Yes. On a 240Z you have a mechanical fuel pump at the front right side of the engine. You will notice that just before the fuel pump is the fuel filter. The fuel line going into the fuel filter comes from the gas tank. Just hook a piece of fuel hose to that side of the filter and drop the other end into the can. The bad news is that the fuel pump is always pumping to make sure that the carbs have an adequate supply. Any excess fuel is returned to the tank. What that means is that you can quickly go through your can and ruin the fresh new fuel by adding it to the old fuel. What I did in this situation was to run a hose from the output side of the pump to an empty can and use the pump itself to get the bad gas into an empty 5 gallon can. I found this easier than trying to get under the car hoping that the plug would come out and that I didn't have more than a 5 gallons of bad gas in the tank. Sure, the tank may still be full of rust and other debris but the filter will trap that. The filter won't help with the bad gas. Once you get the bad gas out it won't be as much of a problem since you won't be mixing it anymore.

Unless the engine blew up, they lost the race, and the other team didn't even want the car.

Snopes is usually a good place to verify urban legends and other bizarre things like this: http://www.snopes.com/photos/lumber.asp

To be honest I'm not sure where the number comes from. I've wondered about things like that. Surely driving the car hard or hitting a speed-bump or maybe even getting slightly airborne will put more stress on the car and suspension than you and your big friend eating a few more doughnuts. What about tire pressure? Just how far above the maximum pressure specified on the sidewall would you have to go before the tire burst? If there's not a big margin of error wouldn't you have to worry about bumps in the road? In other words, I wouldn't worry too much about the weight limit: http://www.swapmeetdave.com/Humor/Workshop/Overload.htm