MikeW

Typical thread drift. Sonofzzap's 'custom exhaust' supposedly sounds like the Ferrari in "Ferris Bueler's Day Off" which wasn't really a Ferrari but a replica which are commonly used in movies and TV shows with over-dubbed V12 sounds because Ferraris really aren't all that common, even in Italy, just like bike shops aren't on every corner in Italy even though some people seem to think that.

Don't forget Miami Vice with the Daytona Spyder replica on a Corvette platform. It bothered Ferrari enough that they donated a couple of real Testsrossa's for the show to use.

Sorry, I should have looked at your public profile first. I also have a '72 and mine came with dealer installed air. I suspect yours is as well. Mine is a Borg-Warner compressor and is big and heavy and was mounted on a big and heavy bracket over the fuel pump. Even though I removed it many years ago - since it didn't work well and the car wanted to overheat - I kept it for some reason. I really don't think it's worth much and if and when I do put AC back in the car it will probably be a modern and efficient compressor running R134a.

What year is your car? Early models of the 240Z didn't come with AC from the factory so they were installed by the dealers. Once you could get AC from the factory I suspect the number of dealer installations went down considerably.

Sorry, I should have been more specific and didn't mean to imply that something wasn't correct. I was really more interested in the overall configuration. Were the two separate emblems used this way only on the spoiler or were there models with this configuration on the hatch itself? I supposed I answered my own question if this is specific to the ZG assuming that the rear spoiler was always present.

Along with the 240Z ... Alan, can you clarify?

Yep. I've got a couple of old pipe wrenches that the previous owner of my house happened to leave behind. I decided to drill holes in the handles to hang them up on my peg board. The drill went right through one of them. The other wrench - which appears to be much older - now has a very small dent in the handle where I tried and tried to drill. Even with a carbide bit it barely got scratched.

One other thing you could do is post some pictures here (yes, I know it's painful). Extra eyes might spot some damage or extra work that the insurance guy won't. The other issue that you're going to have to deal with is paint. If your old paint was faded a bit then things aren't going to match and you're going to want to get the whole car painted. They're already going to be painting most of it anyhow from what you said so you might as well come up with the extra out of your pocket to get the roof and doors painted at the same time.

Just to so that everyone won't have to stand on their heads I've attached an image containing both the original and a version rotated 180 degrees. It appears to me that the whitish component in the background is part of the turn signal assembly. If that's the case then the original picture on the left is the correct orientation.

I used the urethane model but it's probably about the same. As other have said you just need to take off the 3 existing pieces. I assume from the airdam link that you have an early model 260. You'll need to transfer your turn signals to the airdam. As I recall it's a bit tricky because of the curvature of the turn signal and the angle of the bolts coming out of it. If it's like the urethane version you'll have to drill holes yourself for all of the hardware.

Could be a rusty caliper causing the piston to get stuck. Brakes are the single most important part of the car to have functioning properly. I would have it fixed by a professional if possible.

My wife recently had a minor accident and I first took the car to a local shop to get an estimate. I then went to the insurance estimator knowing what I should expect. His computer was broken that day and he simply took some photos and made a few notes. When he noticed I already had an estimate from somewhere else he asked for a copy of it and when he finally got his estimate a few days later it was actually slightly higher than the first (although virtually identical). This worked out to my advantage because he was able to make sure he didn't miss anything that the other guy found. The estimate is actually a bunch of small things from replacement panels to frame work to emblems to paint to an alignment, etc. They really just go by the book on that stuff. It may be different for an older car that may not be covered in the book but you should at least be informed before you let the insurance guy look at it.

That would be an awful lot of work. Have you looked here? : http://www.toointenserestoration.0catch.com/

It's 1976 280Z

The "clicking" sound is produced by either the flasher unit or by an auxiliary device that the flasher plugs into. Mine is of the second type; see the attached picture. This is a very easy thing to change out. It's up under the dash just to the left of the steering wheel and requires no tools.

Looking at a site that sells wheels, it looks like Honda Accords came with 4x100 from '82 to '89 and 4x114.3 from '90 on. I don't know the accuracy of this but it matches what you're saying: http://customwheelsmarket.com/vx877sil.html

How was the car stored? I must be under the mistaken impression that termites only travel under ground and into wood or through small cracks in a foundation in order to get to wood. I didn't think they ever exposed themselves; they even go so far as to build a mud tunnel up the side of a cement or brick wall in order to get to the wood. Given your profession and location I'm sure you know far more about this than I ever will.

That's a very appropriate name. I've got both sitting in my garage and was planning on throwing them out but now I've got a new idea ...

Thanks for the correction. Are there other bumper differences to be aware of between markets - perhaps related to the inclusion of the vertical bumper guards? Were the aftermarket bumper "overriders" unique to the U.S.?

I was under the distinct impression that European models did indeed not come with the rubber strips and hence no holes for them. Unlike other "Euro" parts like taillights the bumpers without the holes drilled actually cost less from VB. I wasn't even aware that there were aftermarket bumpers.

Post your VIN here and we'll be able to tell you about your car. Keep in mind that these older and smaller numbers don't contain any encoded information (color, options, etc.) that newer VINs do. However, the first few letters, HS30, HLS30, etc. will help us identify the specific model and the actual serial number part will help narrow down the manufacture date and/or model year.

1-5-3-6-2-4 Therefore, if the carbs were labeled A-B-C from the front of the car you'd have ACBCAB instead of the normal ABABAB. Each carb would be used once, have a one cylinder gap, be used again, and then have to wait for 3 cylinders.

I'd always heard that about Halon but not CO2. The first place I ever saw a Halon system was in a computer center with big expensive mainframes. Halon would put out any fire without damaging the equipment. Obviously you wouldn't be able to breathe properly (i.e., get enough oxygen) if the room was completely full of CO2 but CO2 is heavier than air and will sink to the floor. Breathing some CO2 itself is not harmful as you're constantly exhaling it anyhow. Breathing Halon is apparently dangerous in concentrations above 5%-7%.

Yes, but there's an ID plate in the engine compartment that lists both and therefore ties to two together. This is how you know if the car has "matching numbers".

Here's one of my favorites: "We were about three hours into a long refueling mission, ferrying fighter aircraft across the Atlantic, when one of the fighter pilots maneuvered his plane ahead of our tanker's nose and executed several rolls. "Bet you can't do that," the fighter jock taunted over the radio. "That was pretty impressive," responded our pilot. "How about showing it to us again when my co-pilot gets back? He's taking his steak out of the oven."