MikeW

GVRW - Gross Vehicle Rated Weight This is the maximum weight of the vehicle plus occupants and cargo. In other words, if you and your passenger both tip the scales at 250 you really shouldn't be carrying much in the back.

1-5-3-6-2-4

Maybe Dave hasn't actually tried to wash it off yet.

As far as I know that's the only wire in that area. To be sure you could just ground it and see if the light comes on. If not you could use a meter to verify that you have 12V there.

As far as the title goes be aware that a title is not even required in some states depending on the age of the vehicle. Here in Georgia a title is only "required" for 1986 and newer vehicles. A title is "optional" (whatever that means) for 1963 to 1985. Other states may have similar rules. Hopefully you'll be able to get an Arizona title without a problem but if not that doesn't mean you'll have to part it out. You could easily sell the whole car for a profit at this point although admittedly you've got some work ahead of you just to get the car extracted. Here's the Georgia info. I couldn't find something similar for AZ. http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/motor/titles/required.asp

Does "electrical use" even apply to 12V systems as opposed to 120/220, etc. I agree, if my car is on fire I'm going to do whatever it takes to put it out, even if it was saltwater out of the ocean. I was sitting at a traffic light once and an old pickup truck came up behind me. The truck knocked off and the driver was trying to start it back up. In my mirror I saw flames through the grille but the driver didn't realize what was happening. I grabbed my extinguisher and jumped out and managed to get the fire out. We were fortunate that it turned out alright but I can imagine that the damage would have been far worse if it had burned much longer.

As always, thanks for the excellent and detailed explanation. I've never attempted to paint myself yet it's obvious that quite a bit of experience is required to do the job right. The above quote is exactly what my painter did except he used tape formed into a roll lengthwise instead of a foam tube. The painted faded away as it got closer to the tape. I guess he was either too cheap to use the proper supplies or has simply been doing it this way for 30 years and before they had the foam tubes.

The guy that painted my car did the door jambs first and let them dry. He then used a neat trick to hide the line. Instead of using the tape flat as you normally would he rolled the tape into a loop so that there was no hard edge. Is that the way you do it?

Hey, what's wrong with the seller? If some idiot (who's never bought anything on ebay) wants to bid $1227 then that's their problem. I see that one of our members, Gav240Z, went as high as $55 - a quite reasonable price. Here's a new kit that doesn't require removal of the stub axle: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=8

Did this start happening suddenly? It sits at 3000 even when the engine is off? Unless you can tap on it somehow to get it unstuck you're going to have to remove it from the dash - whether you fix it or replace it. Be aware that the car won't even run without the tach ...

My first thought was what they will do with the money when they don't come anywhere close to selling 275 tickets? Refunds?

That's one of the reasons they're adding ramp metering. What tends to happen is that a whole line of cars tries to get on the highway at the same time and the car in front is too slow for everyone else so while the #2 car is trying to pass the slowpoke the #3 car tries to pass #2. Letting one car on at a time apparently improves traffic flow overall as you end up having fewer slowdowns on the highway at every entrance ramp.

Welcome to the club. Please update your profile to include your location as there might be some club members nearby who might be interested in your leftovers.

My understanding is that the tire size is the inner diameter of the tire and that there's a bit of overlap with the rim at the bead. My 14" wheels also measure a total diameter of about 15". I'm assuming that you have 14" tires on those wheels so that tells you all you need to know.

Sorry this took so long. I tried to shoot a short movie but even a few seconds came out to 8MB and the limit for attachments here is 1MB. Here's a still shot of the brake lights on.

Googling for "and is one mean looking skyline" results in exactly one hit: http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=760

I just measured an original 240Z AM/FM and it's about 6.5 inches deep not including the dials or push buttons. There's even a inch or two of empty space behind the radio when it's installed. Perhaps your 260Z is different. Just how deep is a new radio? I'm guessing that most people don't still have an original radio installed so it's not like it's not possible to upgrade. Hopefully someone here with recent experience installing sound systems can give you some good advice.

I'll take a picture of mine tonight and post it here.

While I agree in principal with things paying for themselves (Amtrak, the postal service, etc.) I wonder if the interstate highway system could have paid for itself using a tolls?

Depending on the condition of the wheels you may need to use a lot more than polish. Polish is the last step in the process if the wheels are corroded or scratched up. If you have the time and energy you can polish them up yourself using successively finer grits of sandpaper. That process has been discussed here in the past so a search should turn up some good information. The other thing that has been discussed is that polishing is a long dirty process and it's often easier to just pay someone else to do it.

The timing chain simply stretches over the years. Just like with most new cars where you have to replace the timing belt every 60K-100K miles with a chain it needs to be checked and adjusted as needed. It may well be that your timing chain was already stretched when you bought the car and you simply had no idea that you had a potential problem looming. It's not something you really need to worry about at every oil change, for instance.

From your description it sounds like it could have been fixed by moving the sprocket to one of the other two holes but that it's probably too late for that now that you've got damage. You shouldn't keep using a chain that's been rubbing the guides enough to damage them and the chain itself.

Try it yourself here: http://www.mysportscar.com/tools/topspeed.htm

I don't know that anyone here is talking about subscribing to an e-mail list. The discussion is about adding our cars to the Registry which should simply be done by filling out an online form here: http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/#Classic I know I've tried a couple of times in the past as well. Perhaps there's a problem with the software. EDIT: Sorry Chris, I see now that Arne was trying to sign up for both the e-mail list and the registry.

If the switch on a 280 is anything like on a 240 it's just a rotary switch. I spent the last couple of days getting my blower fan working again and I ended up removing everything from the switch to the harness to the blower itself to figure out why it wasn't working. It turned out to just be a loose connector in the harness. What was interesting to me was the way that the 3 speeds actually work. There's a couple of open coils of wire that provide extra resistance for the two lower speeds. These coils are inside the blower housing and completely exposed to the airflow itself. I suppose they get warm from the current flow so having them in the airflow would cool them back down. This amounts to having a tiny heater when not running full speed. The bundle of wires that come from the switch simply determine which, if either, resistor is used.