MikeW

I know I've posted this before and someone else mentioned it above: http://www.wd40.com/Brands/3in1_product_info.html You'll notice that the blue and white can is SAE 20, only costs a couple of dollars at any hardware store, and is the perfect size and has the perfect nozzle for squirting in a few cc's.

Interesting ... what advantage does Kerosene have over water? I recall using lots of water when polishing my wheels.

There are two grooves on the damper rod to indicate the high and low level. It's just like a conventional dip stick. As for adjusting the carbs much has been written about this already, including the fact that many people decide to adjust the carbs when the problem lies elsewhere thus making things worse.

I think you have that backwards ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duane_Allman

I'm 47431, also 9/71.

That car looks a lot different to me. I suppose it could be from the same designers.

Yes, everything is metric. Fortunately almost everything you do on the car is 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, or 17mm. Of course your existing 3/8 or 1/2 socket wrenches and extension bars will work since even metric sockets come in those drive sizes. I like the somewhat recent ratcheting combination wrenches and you really only need the four sizes there as well. In your situation there's only exception to the rule: you'll probably want to pick up a 27mm socket for the crank pulley for when you want to turn the engine over by hard.

Unfortunately for Alan it's not that easy. He has multiple scattered garages located miles from his home due to the space situation and congestion in London. Perhaps he has a special garage picked out for this car ...

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0121.html

The green for 1972 was #113: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

I bought a cheap set of replacement trim/squeegy (I think from VB) because my original rubber was cracking. I was unhappy with the quality and shape of the thin metal so I decided to remove the rubber from the new units and place it on the old which I polished up. The original staples are very heavy duty and difficult to work with. I simply ground them off from the inside with my dremel tool. I then used a strong weatherstrip adhesive to glue the rubber back on. So far so good.

a) The glass has a curve to it so it can't just be cut from a flat piece Automotive glass is tempered safety glass which can't be cut. It has to be manufactured to a specific size and shape.

Note one of the few pieces of english on that page: "Seller will not ship internationally."

Your flywheel is warped from excessive heat. The clutch will grab a high spot and then let go again. My daily driver does this. Coincidentally it started right after teaching my wife to drive a stick.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who had difficulty parsing all of those rambling sentence fragments. It seems to be an attempt at comparing the value of the Z to the value of other cars and motorcycles as well as an attack on certain eBay users.

I'm not sure how helpful this will be. It seems to me that it's the foam padding under the vinyl that's partly to blame for the cracks.

I find this kind of ironic. People who bought the earliest cars probably felt cheated. They were missing amenities and features that appeared as standard equipment a short time later. "I can't see out the back because it's frosted over" "My radio is AM only". "My crankshaft is causing the engine to vibrate too much" Some of them might have had the dealer "upgrade" them as in the case of the defroster by using the parts that 26th-Z posted. Now these early cars are highly regarded. The "upgraded" cars might even be less valuable since they're not "original".

Yes, the earliest cars did not have the defroster.

We did it before the domestic location opened. At the time it was well worth it because other options were even more expensive. EricB did a lot of work arranging the shipping for us out of LA. Shipping them in a group was less expensive than it would be to send just one at a time.

There's a small hole in rim of the metal neck of the filler. In other words, the chain goes on the inside; it's hidden by the cap when the cap is attached.

Careful. You and I had ours done in Australia by Dashboard Restorations, not the Washington state operation. I believe they were once affiliated but are no longer.

It looks like 15146-12200, "GUIDE-GAUGE, OIL LEVEL" on page 23-1 or the later 15146-12201 on the next page.

Unlike domestic American cars of that era it's not really possible to determine one way or another what the car came with because nothing like that is encoded in the VIN or available on a factory build sheet. If you swapped it out for the appropriate 4-speed no one would be able to prove that it wasn't original to the car. Many others have made this switch.

As Arne has already mentioned the "model year" varied according to the dealer; you'd really need to look at the title. Urethane Air Dam, With Brake Cooling Ducts

The most likely build date (month) is 9/70. Whether that's early or not is subjective.