MikeW

I don't know what my offset is but I'd be happy to attempt to measure it if that will help you. My wheels do have a deeper dish than similar wheels I've seen but that's purely from visual inspection. However, the fact that they're not Appliance wheels might not make a good comparison. My instinct says that if you really don't care for them then you shouldn't use them on your car. They certainly do have a certain value being NOS so if you have a place to store them and can get them at a reasonable price I see no reason not to grab them in case you change your mind later.

Sorry, I missed this thread earlier. My slot mags, which I believe were dealer-installed, are stamped "US Indy Mag" on the back side and are 14X7. I'm currently running 205/60-14 with the Tokico performance springs sold by MSA with no clearance problems. In fact, the original springs that I replaced sagged so much that the lowering springs actually raised the car a bit.

It actually doesn't look as bad as I was expecting from your description. Lots of people here have replaced floor pans and frame rails so if you're going to do that anyway I suppose it doesn't matter how far gone they are. The body doesn't look that bad, the bumpers look good and even the battery tray appears to be present. Obviously I'd want to see more pictures but it certainly looks better than Chris's #27.

That's scary, my birthday is Oct. 2. Technically it's not 9 months but rather 40 weeks. Even more technical is the fact that the clock starts with her last period which is about 2 weeks before conception so the middle of September would be more accurate. Even though 40 (really only 38) weeks is considered full term babies can easily be born a couple of weeks early with no problem. My wife is currently at 34 weeks but we'll probably induce a week early. The OB is even willing to induce two weeks early.

When Will said started in a Z on New Years eve he wasn't talking about being born in a Z. That would be really amazing. He should have said working the math forwards instead of backwards.

This place may not be there any more but if it is it might be fun to stop by: http://www.metroactive.com/papers/cruz/03.24.04/z-zone-0413.html

I'd like to hear more about your clock upgrade. I attempted the same thing several years ago but never finished the project. I wanted to use the original clock hands but that wasn't easy. I then tried to fabricate new hands from aluminum that matched the size and shape of the original hands but with the proper centers for mounting to the battery clock. I also struggled with mounting the whole mechanism without having to damage the original housing. If you took any pictures at the time that would be great but I wouldn't want you to have to take it back out.

HP is increased either with more displacement (i.e., going from 2.4 to 2.8 liters) or by making the engine consume more fuel/air. Because the SUs supply exactly the right amount of fuel for the amount of air coming in you need more air. That's why bigger carbs don't help without the additional air flow. A different camshaft is one way to make the engine consume more. Polishing/porting the intake manifold can also make a slight improvement. The performance exhaust may help a little but it usually goes along with the other changes. By far the easiest way to make the engine draw in more air is to force it in. The most common way to do this is a turbo charger. The simplest way to do that is to simply swap engines from a later model 280ZX Turbo. This has the added benefit of increasing the displacement at the same time. Another way to increase displacement is a new crankshaft. If you can find one the crankshaft from a diesel Maxima gets you from 2.8 to 3.1 liters.

Big American V8 engines.

Good point. Mine were metal and riveted on but weren't in great shape.

As far as I know they're all aftermarket and at best installed by the dealer. I removed mine as well but threw them away.

It doesn't have any details but here are some more pictures from the actual scene including the original image that was photoshopped: http://www.boompa.com/news/photos-saturn-lands-on-top-of-acura-and-vw/534/

I hadn't seen this before but the cars are from Georgia. I agree about the photoshop.

Did it ever work for you?

Before deciding to replace everything I'd first figure out what went wrong. I'd first check the clutch master cylinder fluid level. I once had my clutch go out hundreds of miles from home (couldn't shift into gear without grinding). I checked the reservoir and it was half empty and full of gunk. I just happened to have a roll of paper towels and a can of brake fluid with me. Without removing anything I cleaned out the reservoir and refilled it. That solved the problem and I didn't touch it again for years.

I don't have any experience with the original "flat top" Hitachi carbs on a '73. If your car has the earlier Hitachi "round top" carbs installed I'd verify that the float bowls are getting filled up properly. You could have stuck needle valves or clogged inlet filters.

I wouldn't say it's an obvious mistake. For a set of islands that has only about 20,000 people it's surprising to me that they have produced so many postage stamps. I picture one or two people being totally responsible for creating such stamps. It's might be as obvious to them as it was to the person who accidentally produced stamps with an upside-down airplane back when airplanes were new. Looks like it was issued in 1984: http://www.stanleylisica.com/plist_sz/turk.htm 605-12 796-803 1984 Classic Cars and Oil Wells (w/labels) 6.00

The car is known as ZRush and has won many awards. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25596&highlight=zrush

I'm glad to hear you say that. I know for a fact that I replaced my oil pan gasket once without having to move the engine. I questioned that requirement once before but didn't get a confirmation.

Perhaps if you could post a picture of the damage the resident experts can give you a good idea of what approach to take. There's more to consider besides what (if any) filler to use. You have to worry about primer and paint as well.

Sorry to hear of your situation. Consider looking for a way to be able to get the car back later instead of trying to find another. You might be able to find someone who's willing to give you less than market value for it now but then sell it back to you later for a little more to cover their trouble. If for some reason you couldn't buy it back, like at tax time, they could sell it themselves and not take a loss. I'd avoid a title loan or other such risky proposition.

I clearly got the information from the service manual. Sorry for spreading bad information.

One possibility not yet mentioned is a bad vent hose or filler neck. Either of these could cause fuel leaks that appear only when the tank is full. These issues can be addressed fairly easily without dropping the tank at all. I'll also reiterate the previously given advice about being extremely careful while performing this type of work.

As I recall the part that you're missing is the entire premise of the movie.

I'm sorry that it wasn't aired in Hi-Def but I watched it as well as TiVo'd it. Be aware that the bulk of the 30-minute show is dealing with Ford and their history. The interview with Ron is near the 20 minute mark and lasts a couple of minutes. What's funny is at the very start of the show they played some soundbites and one of them was a guy talking about how fast his car was and how well it handled. I had no idea that was actually Ron talking about his car.