hatepotholez

Thanks!

Good luck, I've been trying to find someone around NYC also. I've noticed the same thing as Matthew, with the this forum, other Z forums, the web, co workers who use to work on Z's I've been able to make a lot of progress on my own.

Thanks, he is great and I've bought a few parts from Mike. He told me he can do it for around $450, a little pricey not his fault due to the necessary molds and such. Going to have to go elsewhere unfortunately.

thats fantastic!! I just received my float-sync tool going to try it this weekend and see how it goes. I'm also going to remove my choke cables when I do the carb adjustments, I want to make sure the chokes don't interfere with the balancing. Thanks!

Hello everyone, Would it be possible for someone to measure their dash vin tag if their windshield or dash is out. Looking for total length, total width of the plate, length from rivet hole to rivet hole, how thick the metal is and the length and width of the HLS30- writing and the stamping. Unfortunately I do not have mine and require measurements to have it made. thank you for your help!

Looking for a 240z dash vin tag, lost mine and want to have it reproduced. Thanks!

looking for a 240z dash vin tag, lost mine and want to have it reproduced. Thanks!

I forgot to ask, which cam gear is that? Doesn't look OE per the service manual.

anyone have any sound clips of these beautiful pieces?

Thanks!! I ordered the float-sync off eBay. I believe it's a hybridZ forum member who is making it.

Ok on to the carbs, I purchased this kit when I rebuilt my carbs: https://zcardepot.com/fuel/carburetor/carburetor-rebuild-kit-round-top-su-240z-1970-73.html The needles are M43 and M39. Would the longer needle be less rich? I should have checked the needles that originally came with the car. Also I ordered a colortune, I find this device amazing. Once I get everything synced, I will use the colortune to finish the job. On to the floats, I received an email from Bruce stating: "hold the lid like it is on the carb with the float under the lid. Blow into the fuel inlet tube while moving the float up toward the lid. You’ll feel when the needles closes. At that point you measure the distance from the bottom of the lid to the top of the float lever. .55" I will try this.

Thanks for these also!

thanks for the photos btw, so helpful!

I agree, I have no information on the engine rebuild. I will set the carbs, get a damper, get the car road worthy and then later on go back and redo the whole timing chain/gears.

I'm thinking that the camshaft gear might be a aftermarket unit and the hub is larger than the OE which might cover the groove on the plate.

Ok. I'm definitely changing the damper, I don't believe it's a later style pointer, no idea of the damper. Here's a pic.

Ok some great progress today. I used a dial gauge(like a piston stop) inserted into cyl 1 spark plug hole to find absolute TDC. This worked great. But even before this I tried looking for the notch and groove on the cam plate and cam gear, no luck maybe I didn't look hard enough. Anyway it was cold so I continued, I got TDC on cyl 1, using the gauge on the compression stroke, the cam lobes were in the V orientation. I looked down on my damper and it was no where near 0 TDC, more like 50 degrees. I knew the issue right away, my damper was twisted at some point. So I used a white ink pen and made a mark to locate the new TDC mark. I also saw my distributor tang was at 12 not 11:25. Went on to the distributor locked it down and tried to start it, had to play with the distributor a little bit and then it ran. I was able to set the distributor where there was no backfiring and the engine revved easily. I then used the timing light which is useless as my damper has incorrect measurements. I noticed the timing was maybe at 10-15 degrees, this is a very rough estimate. As of now i'm done with the timing, I will have to one weekend thoroughly go over the timing. I'll look for the notch and groove, check to see at what pin my cam gear was installed on, check crank to cam timing, drop the oil pump and realign the distributor drive, install a new damper. The next is to tackle the carbs, I readjusted the front float and the car was less rich than before. I tried looking for some clear hoses to check my float levels(thanks Peter for this suggestion and the multiple other suggestion) but couldn't find any. But in the meantime I will buy some plastic tubing and try to make some float level gauges from the bowl drain bolts. This float issue are a real pain in the arse, I'm done trying to bend them this way and that way to get it straight. I know for sure the front carb has more gas in the bowl as compared to the rear per the WD-40 stick per @siteunseen(thanks!) I'm going to buy some new ones and call it a day. My carbs btw are almost synced as I used my uni-syn to check between them so once I fix the float levels and some minor adjustments they should be good to go.

Thanks. Yes, I do have this photo actually saved to my phone. I don't recall seeing that notch, but I will check again now knowing that it's actually on the camshaft holding plate and not the actual cam gear itself.

Ok I'll try this. No offense taken. But I did verify TDC at the lobes, piston up, notch on the crank, rotor pointing towards the drivers side headlight. . The only thing I did not verify was the timing marks on the chain, this engine was rebuilt before I purchased it. Thanks i'll try that. The nozzles are 2.5 down.

so i set the light at 0 and rotated to the third mark. The car wont even stay on, it dies and then wont restart. I did notice my new plugs are now black and the car is shooting black exhaust. the car is running ridiculously rich, cant even go near the car because my eyes gets so watery. The float issue is partially fixed, I need a new gasket and that issue will be solved. Can the car run so rich that it wont run at the correct timing?

Unfortunately no, but I will set it to 0 like you stated hopefully that'll work. I did find a reference from @Stanley where the emissions section of the fsm has the d612-53 model number.

I'm thinking it's a euro dist.

Your right it's bent and I'm guessing the ears are missing. I might order another float and see if I can locate another lid. So your right on the error, I have no idea how to use it. I have to read the instructions. Basically the light flashes intensely when I turn the dial to 0 and then flashes above 17 degrees. I set the dial to 10 degrees, then I turn the distributor until it flashes but no success. Only flashes below 5 degrees and above 10 degrees. The vacuum tube is off this whole time. Any idea what z this distributor is off of?

Yes, I did remove the vacuum and try to time it. It actually helped a lot removing the vacuum, it stayed on without help of the throttle. Uploaded now. The distributor is a D612-53 didn't see this in the 72 FSM. My build date is 6/72.

Ok here's some photos. The car is running on its own without any throttle help but the same situation with the distributor. I did notice the small adjustment was fully to one side, so I put that back in the middle. I tried the timing light when it was running and I couldn't get it to 10 degrees but more like 16. This is the only time it would flash, it wouldn't flash at 10 degrees im trying to use the Tapatalk app for the photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk