70z4fun

So, I am doing my struts on my 240z. and noticed different part numbers on the strut towers of the two different cars I have here. Was there a different strut tower used in the 240z line? I know the ball joints are different on the early cars. Is there a reference of what the part numbers are for the strut towers? I have two different numbers for the passenger side 54302-E4151 54302-E4150, Is it just a superseded number? Thanks Bob

So, doing my struts on my series 1 car, and figured I would replace the lower control arm bushings, ball joints, etc....... Everything seem to be going well until I tried to take off the passenger side control arm bolt. The nut came right off, but the bolt is seized to the inner part of the bushing. I have pounded on it with the nut on it, soaked it, air impact wrench forward and backward, for the past couple of days. Thinking I might need to get the sawmill out..... Any other suggestions? I have replacement bolts, not sure I want to use a torch on it. I can move the control arm up and down, and the head of the bolt moves with the control arm. Anyone else had this problem? Any advice is appreciated

I did get new seals and put it into my old pinion. My understanding is the same pinion works on all 240, 260. 280 and 280zx?

Bingo, It is offset the wrong way to the "key" Nissan part #32702-58S17 Drove myself crazy with this one..........

Cool, I will take a look. I thought the cutout was up where the lock plate engages. That would make sense. Started to think I have the wrong pinion, but it looked identical to the one I took out.... Thanks Bob

Ok, so I thought this was going to be a easy repair, but now I think I am missing something..... I have a Series 1 240z, with a ZX Five speed, and a L28. The car had been leaving a huge oil stain on the middle right side where ever it was parked. So , I put some cardboard under it, and it looked like it was leaking from the tranny and the pinion, and dripping down the speedo cable..... I got a new pinion from Nissan, checked to make sure it had o rings, which it did, stuck it in, refilled the tranny oil with Redline, and went for a drive..... NO Speedometer? I took the cable off the speedometer, and went for a drive, it did not spin. Stuck the old pinion on the end of the cable at the tranny and spun it, and my girl friend watched it spin. Looks like the cable is good. What am I doing wrong? Could the gear inside the transmission break? I am able to turn the pinion when installed in transmission.... Did I over tighten the cable? Not get the cable installed correctly at the transmission? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Howdy, Looking at redoing some of the front end of my '70 240z. A few questions have come up. Should I replace the bushing in the lower control arm? A 49yr old car, it seems like a smart idea. Should I use the stock one, or use a urethane version? Advantage or disadvantage? Also, what is the the difference in the steering knuckle between an early 240 and later 240? I have seen a different ball joint offered, but not sure how to tell the difference between the two? Thanks Bob

Well, my old fuel filter did not look bad, as I cut it open and looked inside. The filter has been on the car for years. At least since my last tune up. The new one looks clear, and I don't see a drop in fuel level in it either. I just replaced the coil this morning, and I have driven ten miles so far, and it has been fine. I am not going to say it's fixed, but I hope so. Will report back after I get some miles on it...... Gives me a good excuse to go for a drive. Thanks Bob

Scary, still have the original box from the coil a "flamethrower" by PerTronix

Cut open old filter, does not look bad, no big rust or particals in filter it deffinetly studders (loses power) before dying. But when I try to restart it right away, starter turns and acts like no spark. Sometimes it runs with the feeling of "missing" then regains power or dies

Going to cut open the old filter and see what hind ;-)

Thanks for the response The new filter looks clean. I changed the filter before I drove today. Old one didn't look that bad, but had been there for years. 'Thinking of checking the the carb filters next. Hate to think the tank is causing this, but it is 47 years old...... also was thinking fuel pump screen? Was hoping for some electrical issue, but may be fuel related. Cant seem to make it stall it again on demand......

Ok, first let me say I have had this car since 1979, never had this issue car is a stock motor, running points, with a aftermarket coil since mid 80's a few months ago, I drove the car, ran fine then lost power and died. Open hood checked connections, all tight restarted fine. Has done the same thing three or four times since, always restarted. Changed fuel filter today, went for spirited drive fo 60 miles, all perfect then it did it again. Piulled over, and re;started and here I am st home, wondering what to check next? Seems electrical the way it loses power... temperture does not seem to matter, it has done it on hot nights and cool days> Only thing changed out this year is the battery any advice would be appreciated thanks, bob

Howdy, This is for my Series 1 240z First the hard question! Just noticed that my light switch for my glove box is hanging in the box! Looks like the spot weld for the bracket has broken. Looks like to fix it right, I would need to pull the dash and spot weld back on. Not thinking of doing that right now. Any one else had this issue? Would JB weld or drilling a hole with a screw and nut work? Any thoughts would be appreciated…... And because I am lazy, I noticed that one of my cables for the heater control has come loose and the screw has vibrated off, and is no where to be found. Any ideas what size screws those are? I guess the easy way is to take one off the other three cables, but I thought I would ask here. Thanks in advance Bob

Just a quick update, pulled up the Z cd, and the parts show 3 - M6x1 screws with washers…… So I guess I got a long screw when it was painted many years ago……...

Awesome advice, thanks so much. I did take the whole mechanism out, and besides for the screws need to be replaced after all these years, I got the thing out and sure enough, the long screw was in the way of the locking mechanism, So, it will get screws. Just out of curiosity, why did they use one long screw? That must be for the top where it does not interfere? I think I will use the short screw sizes for all three, unless there is a good reason not to? The mechanism is sitting on my work bench, will clean it, spray with silicone spray and reinstall. All of my linkages seem fine, with that looks to be a good thing. My guess is over the years, the vibration of the car made the screw go in just enough to get in the way of the lock? I did notice that there was no tooth washer on two of the screws. Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Howdy, Went out to lock my car the other day, and the thing would not lock from the outside or inside. Pulled the drives side door panel and the rods off the key cylinder/lock rod and still no go. I guess it is time to replace the lock mechanism, got out my hand Z cd rom, got the part number, and guess what? No longer available! So, next was ebay, and a few there listed look beat with paint on them….. Went to Motorsport, and they don't show them anymore either…... Going to pull the old one out today, and start looking in other places. Any other options or rebuild threads? Did a quick search, and didn't see anything. Maybe it available in Canada??? Junk yard? Any advice would be appreciated, Bob

My series one car heater is not working. The valve has been replaced, and I suspect the heater core. It is not leaking, so I think I am going to pull it out and see what I have. Can a heater core be redone at a good radiator shop, or should I try to find a replacement? If so, who might have them. I will replace the valve again while I am there, I guess. Anything else I should do while there? Any one have a good link to replacing a heater core? I have pulled it out before, but it has been a long time and I am much older now! Thanks, and any advice is appreciated, Bob

Howdy, One of the guys that I work with gave me a all the other day, and wanted to know if I wanted to buy a 240z. His brother has a series 1 car in Eugene area, and wanted to know if I wanted a project. I have been busy with other stuff, and this is more than I want to take on. The car has the motor dismantled, but appears to have all the parts, but I didn't see any pictures of the carbs. He has two sets of wheels, including a set of "Z" hub caps, that appear in decent condition. I have some pictures and there is a bit of rust, but not as bad as I have seen. The title is clean, and would make a good project. VIN is HLS30-14XXX He was trying for $2000, but his open to offers. Thought I would let the Z community know about it before he sticks it on Craigslist. So, the bad? Some moron put a sun roof in it, engine is disassembled, emblems and parts are all off of it, there is some light rust in the usually places, but it appears there floor boards are intact, with some rust, but no holes, at least in the pictures. Interior needs major work, but at least the seats are there! The good? Low serial number, body looks intact, might be a decent deal for someone looking for a project! Anyone looking for a project? ….Assembly required……. Let me know, and I can get you in touch with the seller.

The ones on ebay are for the center console, not the radio/heater bezel. But thanks for the head's up!!!!

Thanks, I will send him a email. Thanks Bob

Dan, Thanks for the link to Nikki, and I heard back that they are no longer available from Nissan anymore. Anyone know the length and size/pitch of the screws? Any other suggestions would be great. Thanks, Bob

Howdy, Looking to replace the four screws that hold on the heater panel. Does anyone know which screws are the correct ones for a series one car? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Bob

I don't think the original positive battery cable is available any more for a 1970 240, so I have been using a generic cable for many years. I do need to replace it, as the connector has cracked. Any suggestions on a cable and length? The one I have has a big cable going to the starter, with the fusible link coming off the bolt. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Bob

Howdy, My drivers door on my 1970 z is starting to be pain, and it seems to be getting worse ;-) I pull open the handle, and sometimes it opens!!! It always works from the inside. Before I tear off the door panel, thought I would get some ideas from you!!!! Any advice is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks, Bob