That Ozzy Guy

45 minutes ago, DangerBoy703 said:

hey guys. i purchased a set of these for my 72 240z along with the Eibach springs that MSA recommended. i have a good bit of experience working on cars and have owned 5 Z's but never tackled this particular project before. i am slightly confused by the instructions as they are only pictures. i know these are a new product but if anyone could has an installation video they could link me to i would appreciate it. at the very least, if someone could tell me what fluid step #4 shows being poured into the strut tube. thanks!

Any engine oil will do. Only use 50ml. Thrown on some grease on the bottom of the strut as well if you'd like. 

Don't use what the above poster mentioned. That's for original wet legs.

My rears had between 5 to 6mm gaps. Plenty of engagement though so nothing to worry about.

Front I had 2mm and 4mm.

Car is a 1970 Australian delivered model.

Good to see so many young faces. Expecting big things from Leclerc but as an Aussie, even bigger from Ricciardo.

From Holland to the US and down to Australia. Thanks Koni and MSA.

11 hours ago, EuroDat said:

George, Hat off to you and your team for the work you have done on this car. Really impressive workmanship.

Grats becoming a father. Oh and finding time for your hobbies is always going to be hard, if my experience is anything to go by.

Next question: footy or cricket?

 

Thank you

It has to be footy. Cricket is too slow for my taste.

Two years after shipping the rusty heap we have a complete shell ready to come back home. 
 

Progress has been slow on my end as I've become a father to a very energetic and happy little boy. He brightens every day of my life and I haven't been able to bear to draw myself away from him and slave away in the garage while he's experiencing a lot of firsts.

Fortunately progress has been made with the body by a skilled team over 1,300km away.

2 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

The numbers speak for themselves, the reason you won't address those numbers is because they prove my case and not yours.

The only numbers that speak is the cash someone parts with to own one. Your reasoning, however valid, idealistic or delusional, is moot and holds precisely zero relevance to those that own or aspire to own a Z432.

The market is the market for reasons beyond reason.

I used media blasting to clean and then satin black to paint. I will be redoing them with the navy green original colour once I find something close to it.

Great! I restored my horns and now I'll have to paint them again... 

Oh, and still have the bolts to do now that I think of it.

So what does remain of 00019... ?

Most of the car is still there. There's a surprising amount of metal left considering the damage done to it by the elements. All the guts are present and usable. The glass I should be able to save. Interior was shot. The paintwork I couldn't save...

George you mentioned here:

http://goce.miskovski.com/blog/2014/01/hs30-00019/

 

That you passed up on #63 and #86 - as they were in better condition. But better condition doesn't mean much compared to #19. How would you rate those cars compared with #19? Admittedly #19 is pretty far gone compared to most S30z's I've seen for sale, but it's also the 3rd oldest HS30 prefixed car I know of after HS30 0004 and HS30 00016.

 

 

 

I tend to agree, although I don't think it will necessarily have to be a Japanese collector. I think S30z's have worldwide appeal and a car like this may just offer a return on investment yet!

Gav,

Both had been neglected for some years and both required a 'nuts and bolt' restoration which I believe they are receiving now. Well, I know one of them is being looked after. They were undoubtedly in better shape than what I ended up with and had more savable parts as well.

At the time I wasn't willing to do a full restoration and wanted something ready (or near enough) to drive. They also wanted way more than what I thought they were worth but in retrospect they were priced reasonably.

By the time 19 came up I had been in the market for some months and saw the values escalate rapidly. I also came around to the long term view with this purchase, something which has always eluded me. Must be getting old...

So, regardless of what I am about to ask, this is an amazing project that will be fun to watch. Thank you for posting.

 

Did the early cars have an engraving of the serial number on the engine side of the firewall (my 72 does)? If I am understanding correctly, there is a donor chassis that is replacing the cowl/firewall / roof frame / rocker frame, etc. Doesn't the donor chassis replace the engraved serial number? Do you think that anyone will question whether the resulting car is #19?

Going in to this project I faced the dilema you mentioned. I had two choices. Get hung up on it or get on with it.

I could have easily cut 2 inches on either side of the VIN and stuck it in another shell but that would never have felt like #19 to me. This car that I'm sweating on does feel like #19 - we're saving as much of it as possible and that's all that can be done. The alternative is to scrap it and I know no one wants that.

A friend told me about grandfather's axe before I began restoring this car.

A grandfather bought an axe as a young lad and worked it pretty hard througout his life. One day the handle split and he had to replace it. Soon that handle got chipped and dinged and aged with the axe head. The grandfather passed on the axe to his son who left it in the shed for so long it rusted and pitted beyond repair. When the grandson inherited the axe he got nostalgic and decided to fix it so he bought a new axe head and started to use his grandfather's axe. One day he will pass on his grandfather's axe to his son...

Some bits and pieces I've acquired over the last few months

There's more but it's much the same. Will start work on the greasy bits soon.

Sandblasted

Primed

Donor frame ready

WOW! That's the rustiest car I've ever seen! I hope your welding guy takes lots of pics for us, so that we can marvel at his workmanship!

Found some OEM quarters

Car taken apart

Plated some parts

Excellent resource. Thanks for sharing.

I'm in Australia but as far as I'm aware this is an international model that is rebranded so it should be available via a local-to-you company.

It's like a Max Jax but when I did my research it suited me better.

http://happ.com.au/hoist_and_lift/happ90-3t-two-post-hoist-fully-adjustable/

I would prefer a newer radio in the glove box if I wanted bluetooth/mp3.

Plating was $40 as I went halves with a friend so not much in the scheme of things. Keep in mind I am in Australia so prices local to you would be different.

I had a bit of fun cleaning up an old radio. I still need to replace up the external wires and a light bulb.

It would have been fine to leave as is but I undid one screw and the rest followed.

I had a closer look tonight and figured it out. When the dial is attached you press it in and the grooved part of the larger stem is engaged by the dial which in turn actuates the switch. As to what it does, I still have no idea. Need to read the manual.

Incidentally, the volume side has a similar action but it's something other than a switch that's controlled when pressed in. Again, need to read the manual.

Does anyone know what the black toggle switch above the tuner knob does? It's actually inside the unit and not accessible while the case is assembled. Turning the knob, pushing or pulling it while turning it etc does nothing to it.

Thanks for that confirmation.

I powered it up and all seems fine.