Milenko2121

ah, well then I feel slightly dumb for turning it that way, but the timing mark appears to be fine. next time I'll do the remote starter way.

Is there any reason not to turn the cam lobes using a 19mm wrench rather than turning the engine over with a remote starter?

Ok, adjusted my valves, and now my engine doesn't pop through the intake anymore, and the exhaust sound is a lot more consistent. Right now I need to find the air boot from the airbox to AFM and then from the AFM to the Throttle body because mine are ripped and leaking. Anyone know a cheap place to get these? with or without the fitting on top of the hose.

yes, it's stock. and yeah, i'm getting the valve clearance done tomorrow. bought the feeler gauges today and the torque wrench. what my assumption about it is, is that since my valve clearance is off, it's causing left over gases from the exhaust to stay in, and after every few detonations, it causes a misfire which I believe is what makes it become offbeat. Just an idea though... I'll find out tomorrow for sure though after I get the clearance corrected. and yes, I'm stock

I started my car up today after fixing a leaking vacuum hose and when I started the car(cold), it ran perfect, no misses and it purred exactly like it should, but after it started warming up, it started getting off beat again. Could this be my valves? I'm adjusting them tomorrow because they're off by about 0.05 to 0.15 across all 12 of them. My assumption was that when the valves heated up the clearance got worse so that's what's causing the exhaust to be offbeat. Or could it be a vacuum problem? but wouldn't a vacuum problem stay the same no matter hot or cold? what other ideas could it be?

ive checked them and done a compression test they all look the same, and compression was8.6-8.7 across all cylinders

id love 20mpg vs my 14

Well, just got my MPG reading today. 14.8mpg I did however find out that cylinder 1 injector wasn't firing. I apparently didn't get all the corrosion off, but it's fixed now. Haven't fixed the timing thing yet, been too busy, but I plan on adjusting my valves later this week, and doing the timing correctly. Also, my front tires were heavily offset which I got fixed today, and wow does it handle/steer better so that had to fix my MPG for sure. My rear tires apparently are off though, and I can't figure out how to adjust them. They'd toe'd in way too far. I also did a power test across all cylinders, and it wasn't equal with all of them. I'm not sure if it's my valves, but certain injectors dropped the RPM's more than others, and a few didn't even change a thing. I checked my spark plugs, and they are sparking. Just seems so odd considering it drives so smooth...

thanks for the information i do like the covers, but I dont have money to spend on things that wont help mpg. right now I believe Im getting around 18mpg. I havent adjusted my valves or gapped the spark plugs yet though.

I'm wondering if anyone has used these and know if they increased gas mileage. I'm just trying to justify the $70 for them because it would've been gas anyway if they do help If they do, how much did you see the increase by?

The only thing I tightened was the slack before opening the door handle so that it would not wiggle, and on the passenger side all I did was spray lube on all the joints and it did it. I found out that you can bypass the feature by holding up on your door handle as you shut the door, so I'm perfectly fine with everything.

I took apart my door and lubed everything up because it was hard to open and the handle needed to be tightened down. Before I did this, I could lock my doors from the outside and then shut them and it would stay locked (both sides). Now after lubing everything, my door locks will pop open when I shut the door while locked. My key only works to "unlock" my door, and will not lock it. How can I remove this feature because it obviously was working just fine without it before lube.

I have the EFI Bible and the Haynes manual, neither of them say what the correct torque is.

didnt have much time to work on my car today, but i checked the timing, and the mark was exactly the same as it was using the 6th cylinder. also, what are the correct torque settings for the valve cover? and whats the correct way to bolt it on?

... That could explain why the timing mark was off >_> I got a couple questions then. What happens when your timing is too advanced or retarded, and how would I know? Because when I set it to 7deg(using my 6th cylinder which I'm going to check tomorrow morning as to what it is with #1 now that I know) my engine has ran beautifully no hesitation at all up to redline.

the #1 piston is the one closest to the firewall right? Just double checking >_< I'm still learning here, I've only owned this Z for a little over a month, and it's the first car I've ever worked on, and I've done a lot so far mostly thanks to this site.

Just got the kit from MSA, and it installed nicely. Found out I never had anti-squeak shims. I guess that explains everything It was confusing putting the shims on. Had to look at my haynes manual multiple times to make sure the arrow was right >_<

whats the best way to find TDC? ive been reading about it, but im still a bit confused on when to know how to do it perfectly

Thanks for the tips I'm sure my pulley is off then, but I like how my engine is running with this timing. It's smooth and clean, also my gas mileage has gotten much better. No true numbers yet, but I'm guessing I'm getting 18mpg maybe even 22. I'll find out in a week or so when I fill up. Also, found out that metal on metal noise was the skidplate on my catback. it's loose and rattles. And I apparently need a new exhaust. My cat has a hole that was welded, the exhaust pipe has multiple holes and is rusted as well as the muffler. I think that could explain my engine not running as well, and the shakiness.

how would you know what the best timing is?

I was told I needed to be at 7deg for california. I'm curious, where does this information come from that it needs to be at 10-13 ? And what would the benefits be Also, I've been reading a bit more, and I see people are able to go to 20deg and such. My timing won't let me go past ~12deg, but I can go the opposite direction way off the timing marker. Could anyone explain why this happens? Also, my engine ticks now at idle, but ever since I timed it to what I believed was 7deg(which I don't believe it truly is anymore) my engine has ran better than ever. One last thing, I had about 2 instances where I heard a weird metal grind from the engine bay when I revved up the engine around 4krpm that last maybe 1 second. Any ideas as to what this could be?

After a quick test run on the freeway and a couple red light stops; my car runs so much smoother, and it's accelerating much better. I actually said "Holy S**T" when I floored it from a dead stop to 65mph to get on the freeway. Filled up my tank to full, and I hope my mpg is better now. it was only 14mpg before. So just for future reference, I should check my Water Temp Sensor and my Coolant Temp Sensor? How would I check my Fuel Pressure Regulator as well as those other two?

Just read a guide on my TPS, and it was at fault. The second I hit throttle, it was telling my engine I was WOT. I followed the instructions and got it spaced exactly where it needs to be. Now I'm going to do a mpg test Also, my distributor timing was off by A LOT, I fixed that and set it to 7deg / 800RPM after my next mpg test if it's not acceptable, I'll test the sensors. What is the FPR ?

My 280z is only getting 14mpg... I've replaced the fuel filter, and the filter near the tank which raised me from 10mpg to the 14mpg. I've replaced the spark plugs and the wires with NGKs. My engine holds idle at 800rpms with no problems except when my engine is cold it gets stuck at 600-500 if it hits 500, it wants to die unless I rev it until it warms up. Sometimes when I start my engine when it gets stuck at 600-500rpm it will backfire at the intake when I rev it and then after roughly 2-3 backfires it will idle normally. It also backfires at the intake without the AFM attached so I don't see my AFM being an issue. I've already fixed my vacuum leaks and my fuel pressure is perfect (~35). What should I start diagnosing?

I locked the rotor in a vice and smashed down on it with a rubber mallet