Healeyalt

I'm thinking my 76 2+2 might look better with a wider stance in the rear either from wider tires or use of wheel spacers. It looks like I could fit some 235/60R14s in the rear. Has anyone else went with this size tire in the back? I'll have to stick with narrow tires (eg, 205/70R14) in the front or I might not beable to turn the wheel at slow speeds. Of course I won't beable to rotate my tires. Or has anyone used wheel spacers in the back? One of the guys at work has an Infinity G35 coupe with wider wheels in the back and it looks very aggressive and sharp. But I'm not sure how this would work/look on my 76 Z. It looks like the BRE race cars had wider tires in the back. Obviously, Mr Brock would not have done that if it would adversly affect handling. Gary

The rubber does look OK, the same thickness and size as the old one, attached the same way via staples (which now I have to try and remove), and of course is soft and pliable unlike the old brittle one.

Hi jcb (and others); I did order the $20 for each (plus $10 for shipping of course) side window moldings from BD for my 2+2 and they showed-up yesterday. They are the complete unit (metal trim plus squeezee), however, the metal is so cheap looking (I'm not sure if it is light-weight cheap stainless or lighty chrome plated) and flimsey, I'll be taking off the rubber squeeze part and transfering to my old stainless trim piece, which is what others have done (now I know why). But anyhow, if the rubber squeeze could be cut to length for you guys with coupes, you could order it this way getting both sides for about $50. Gary

jcb, I do plan on ordering them from BD but not for a month or two. I'll let you know what they send me. One of the downsides to ordering from BD (Long Motor Corp parent company), whether its for my Z or from LMC truck for my BII, if you call them for any additional info or descriptions, they really don't know anything other than what is listed in the catalogue, unlike MSA which does have more knowledgeable sales people that know their products. Great write-up Blue. I do plan on doing the fuzzy side in the very near future, very helpful info. Thanks Gary

I know the 2+2 doors are quite a bit longer by a couple of inches and that's why I was wondering if they could be cut-to-length for the guys with coupes if the mounting is the same.

jfa, that really helps, thanks. I see Black Dragon has them listed for the 2+2 for around $20 each and so it must just be the squeegee without the stainless. I wonder if you guys with the coupes could order these and cut them to proper length? Unless mounting is totally different.

Did you use really small pop rivets in the original staple holes or did you drill new holes? And did you use steel or aluminum? This does sound like a better way to go than trying to get staples back in and bent over.

Sorry about not mentioning its a 76 2+2.

I need to replace the weather strip molding along the outside of my side windows. Its stapled to the stainless steel trim. After I take the old ones off, what's the best way to attach the new ones? I'm not sure how I'd get staples back in the original holes and curled over on the inside. Is there a good all-weather adhesive I could use or does someone have another suggestion for attaching the new molding? Thanks Gary

Thank you Jim, that helps Gary

I'm looking at different rear spoiler options for my 2+2, including may be modifying one made for the coupe. I know the slope of the rear hatch is different on my 2+2 than on the coupe, but I'm not sure about the width. The width of the hatch on my 2+2 is 41 and 3/8 inches. When someone with a coupe gets a minute, could you please let me know the width of the hatch? Thanks Gary

Unfortunately, I've got rust along the bottom of both doors and want to take them off for repair. According to the service manual and Wick Humble's book, I should take the hinge to body pillar bolts off after first removing the kick panel stuff, side cowl, etc. My question is, why can't I just remove the hinge to door bolts instead? They look easy enough to get to. Thanks Gary

This is for my 76 2+2. Even though Black Dragon says its for the coupe, other sources list it as fitting the 2+2 also. The reason I want to go with this one is because a prior own got hit from behind and messed up the lip on the hatch and buckled it a little. It would be really hard to get that crease out. This spoiler is a little different others in that it looks like it drops down below the hatch and covers up the edge. Gary

I was wondering if any one has purchased and installed one of these: Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 If so, how well did it fit the contour of the car? I've ordered fiberglass parts before (eg, a front air dam) and it took a lot of grinding and filling to make them fit. Also, how does it attach? Do you drill thru the hatch lid (outer and inner skin) to bolt it on? Do I have to remove the rear deck (hatch) emblems and will it cover all of the holes? Is the back side (underneath) open (hollow)? If any one has any pics regarding mounting a rear spoiler, that'd be great. Thanks Gary

Mike, I think instead of going right to the heat/fire, I'll put on some gloves and goggles and try the aircraft stripper first. Thanks Gary

On my 76 280z 2+2, how do I get the rear quarter panel emblems off? I thought I'd ask for advice before I try to just pry them off and break them or something. Thanks Gary

I didn't think about heat (eg, burning it off if I have to). Thanks guys.

The vinyl on my scuff plates is pealing at the edges with rust underneath. I'm trying to get the vinyl off them but it is otherwise really really stuck on. Has anyone found a trick for getting that stuff off? Some sort of solvent or scraper or something? Thanks Gary

I've kind of got the same situation. With regards to fixing my door myself, I don't weld any more, but I'm seeing more and more info on Bonding panels instead of welding. Here is an interesting link I just came upon on adhereing lower door skin with bonding. http://porsche356registry.org/resources/tech-articles/troubleshooting-and-repair/334-no-weld-door-bottom-repair.html I might end up trying something like this. Gary

Thanks Black Gold Man, the price on those door is reasonable, however, when I zoom in on the drivers door it does look like some paint blistering on the lower outside and they may need patching as much as the doors I currently have. These cars do seem to have reaaaally thin metal. Esmit208, I'll try calling TABCO on Monday. Their price for the lower door skins is about 1/2 what Black Dragon wants in case I do have to buy 2 to spice together and may be they do or can make one for the 2 + 2, it never hurts to ask. Thanks Gary

I've got the engine running really well on my 76 2+2 and now I'm starting to work on the body. I've got a bad lower door on the driver's side (rusty). Does anyone know where I can order a lower door skin for the 2+2? I see Long Motors and others sell doors skins for the coupe, but not the 2+2 which I believe is a little longer. Unless I bought 2 and somehow spliced them together to get the correct fit? Or am I stuck with fabricating a custom patch or looking to buying a used 2+2 door somewhere/ Thanks Gary

Wade, good point. I have done alot of diagnostic checking on the car with my ohm meter (eg, the AFM checked out OK for each test) and adjustments such as valve lash, etc. But since this car is almost 40 years old, what might check out OK today, will probably need to be replace anyway in another couple of years. And some of the tests require purchasing extra tools such as a fuel line pressure gauge or cumbersome procedures like heating the thermo-time switch in a water bath and checking the change in ohms as the temp changes, etc. I figure the pressure regulator has probably taken a beating from heat over the past 37+ years considering it sits right above the exahust manifold in the center of the engine. Spending $60 or so bucks doesn't seem too bad to quickly solve a problem, if that was the problem, however, if I suspect something like the fuel pump which may cost me $200, I'll definately try performing some testing first. I guess when I post regarding an issue, I always hope someone else who might have had the same issue replies with, "I had the same problem and it was my ....." This is a great forum. But you do have a valid point about testing vs just replacing. As I mentioned, I do plan on keeping this car. I've had a lot of awesome cars like a 62 Austin Healey 3000, a 67 Camaro, etc. But this is really a cool little car and will by my cruiser when my wife and I retire in a couple of years and I'm not pulling that blankety blank 5th wheel trailer she likes so much. Gary

First, sorry guys for not mentioning this is on a 76 FI, that's usually the first thing I mention when I post. Yes I did recently replace all the fuel injectors and yesterday I did order a new cold start valve in case it was leaking or not opening properly. I also ordered a new theromotime switch. I do have a FSM which tells how to test some of this stuff, but since the car is almost 37 years old and I do plan on keeping it, I figure I might as well replace that stuff sooner than later so I can get it running as good as possible and enjoy it. I also cleaned-up the electrical connector on the aux air regulator and that did seem to help some. For example, when I start it from cold, I now get that little "bump" in RPMs to about 1,200 before it settle back down to idle at around 800 RPM. I'm now in the process of cleaning many of the other electrical connectors. So at this point I'm not sure if I should pull the Fuel pressure regulator and bother testing it or considering its 37 years old, just replace it for the $60 thinking that might help maintain pressure in the fuel system. Thanks Gary

My car is hard starting, especially when cold, but seems to run fine a minute or so after I get it started. The other day I was going to do some work on a fuel line and when I went to depressurize the system, there wan't any pressure. Does it sound like my fuel pressure regulator could be bad allowing fuel to too easily run back to the gas tank and not maintaining pressure in the system? I don't know where else the pressure would be "leaking" to since I don't smell gas or see any actual leaks. Thanks Gary

I'm having troubles with initial start-ups. This is on a stock 76 FI Z. I crank it for ~ 5 secs and it doesn't fire. After doing this 2 or 3 times, it fires, but sputters and even backfires a little. Then by about the 5th or 6th try, I can keep it going and after a couple of minutes it runs great - very responsive, lots of power, smooth idle, no smoke from the tail pipe, etc. Its' just that initial start-up I'm having trouble with. Over the Summer I did put quite a few new parts in which did help so that as I mentioned, after initial start-up it runs great; new plugs/wires, distribitor cap/rotor. ignition coil, fuel injectors, fuel filter, and the timimg is on, the AFM checked out OK, and I checked/adjusted the valve lash. Even though the temperature is still in the 60s around here, could this maybe be my cold start valve, or one of the temperature sensors such as the thermotime or water temp switch, etc? I appreciate any suggestions regarding what to check and possible replace next. Thanks Gary