gtb2006

I’m working on getting my 240 back in road shape and I tried to change the transmission fluid yesterday but the fill plug seemed impossible to remove. I ordered a 17mm square socket to hopefully not round it off and doused it in penetrating oil multiple times. Any other tips and tricks? When is searched around I read that applying heat to the transmission body around the nut can help, is a propane torch sufficient? Also, any guesses on what is causing the oil leak on the rear of the transmission and what the black oil soaked wire running to the rear of the transmission is? Thank you.

It doesn’t seem to be.

I missed the part on returning 1.5 turns, I’ll check that in the morning. This might be a dumb question but with the transmission in the car are you able to see the release bearing from underneath or is it more of a tighten until there is no play in the release lever and then back off 1.5 turns?

I have a 71 240z that I’ve recently got driving again. It was having some trouble going into gear so I changed out the clutch master and slave cylinder. Now the car has no problem shifting up but seems to not want to shift down easily and grinds when I try to put it in reverse. Any thoughts? I’ve attached a video that shows the slave cylinder actuating when the clutch is engaged. Do I need to adjust the slave cylinder to actuate farther? When the clutch is pressed engine goes into neutral fine. IMG_1808.mov

I just rebuilt the carbs and started with them both 2 full turns down, but after the above difficulties moved them both to 1.5 turns based on the service manual.

My l24 with SU carbs is up and running but I’m having trouble with the air fuel adjustment. I adjusted timing to 5 BDTC and balanced the carbs using a synchrometer. Idle is around 750 rpm. When I use the piston lifter on the front carb rpms increase and then come back down but the engine will then die if I don’t let the piston drop. When I use the piston lifter on the rear carb rpms increase, stay increased (around 1300rpm) and the car backfires. When using the piston lifters ideally rpms will increase and then drop back down without the car dying correct? It seems like the front carb is a bit lean and the rear carb is rich but they are supposed to be adjusted together correct?

I’m rebuilding my round top SU carbs on my 1971 240z and after everything was cleaned and put back together one of the pistons keeps binding in the dash pot when the top is screwed down. I’ve switched tops and the same thing happens. The jet and needle don’t bind at all and the piston slides freely with the top not screwed down. I’ve tried tightening the screws gradually and making sure the piston slides freely as I go but every time the screws are fully tightened the piston gets stuck and won’t fully drop. Any suggestions? Do the screws need to be fully tightened for the carb to function or can they be snug without causing issue? The carbs are 4 screw tops.